Fuel lines and bracket rusted - Replace?

[uslspct]

So the tank has never been removed and look what the lines look like under the splash shield. If I can even remove the bolt cleanly, think I should replace everything? I'll be ordering the bolts and brackets for the tank for they are rusted too.

[EsperHamid]

obvious !! we're talking about fuel lines .. common sense.

[dhill_cb7]

Yeah man, they do not look good. I bet even if you went to a junkyard they would look the same as yours or worse. I should probably go check mine. I personally would replace them.
Hopefully those nuts aren't stripped. They look rounded because of the rust. I hope you can get them off, best of luck man.
What part of jersey are you in ? I'm only over across the bridge in PA, if you need any help with the repair.

[N9netwoAccord]

When I do new fuel lines or brake lines, I attempt to re use all the factory brackets, sometimes the brackets break, so instead of waiting another day for a bracket I make do with zipties, to make sure it wont rub against anything. I've never had a problem doing it that way. Some people think it's hacking it, but holding a $1200 job for a day or two for a $5 bracket seems silly to me.

[uslspct]

Yeah, so it broke. It actually came out of the hole fine but twisted the rusted line so much that it just twisted clean off. SO, this is one long line, #10 on fuel line pic. $54 assuming it's not discontinued. And I can't imagine it's easy to thread all the way back to the fuel filter. But I don't see any other option. The other part of the line that connects here from the tank should be replaced. I think it's #24 "hose fuel joint"- $108. Also the line #26, "pipe fuel" - $24, and the one next to it need replacing, but what's the part number for the line right next to #26?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...gry5=FUEL+TANK

[Dano]

I've done the exact same job as you're undertaking, only mine was leaking at the time (it was such a PITA I learned to not touch the fuel lines until they actually start leaking - it's amazing how much time a little red oxide primer and Tremclad can win you...)

Anyways, a couple pearls of wisdom from my experience:

When you say that you don't see any choice to going all the way to the filter, you could always cut and flare the line to replace the portion at the rear that's rotten - in my experience, the plasti coated portion in the channel and up into the bay is usually still good.

If you do decide to go the full line route (I recommend not to unless you have access to a hoist), don't sweat it in case you can't get the line #10 you're talking about. Reason I say this is that all the pretty bends are going to get re-bent to **** if you you're working off axle stands - there just isn't enough room to work a long multi-foot section of line like that around under the car without messing up the factory bends. I ended up jacking the driver side of my car pretty high to the point where my neighbour joked that he hoped the wind wouldn't blow the car over (looked like the scene in Police Academy where the dude parks the vet by putting it on two wheels). It still sucked.

So in summary - just cut and flare the rotten part. If you insist on going the full length, get some generic fuel line, approximate the bends from your original with a bending tool, and get ready to curse...

Also, I've used high pressure rubber fuel hose for short sections with decent success - just use 2 high pressure clamps on each end and off-set the screws on each set to reduce a weak spot.