Brake line tubing pieces

[lucifer1]

There is a jack point at the center back of the underside of the trunk (if it still exists on your car). You could probably put the jack stands under the frame/beam sections that run along the inboard side of the wheel wells back to the rear bumper mounts.

I tried to put stands on those rear frame/beam sections on my Integra and they started collapsing from the car's weight. I doubt the accord is any stronger.

[Raf99]

There is a jack point at the center back of the underside of the trunk (if it still exists on your car). You could probably put the jack stands under the frame/beam sections that run along the inboard side of the wheel wells back to the rear bumper mounts.

I've been using the rear trunk jack point currently. But I'll need somewhere else to put the jack stands. Could this spot be used alone to hold up the whole end of the car?

[Dano]

You could probably put the jack stands under the frame/beam sections that run along the inboard side of the wheel wells back to the rear bumper mounts.

I tried to put stands on those rear frame/beam sections on my Integra and they started collapsing from the car's weight. I doubt the accord is any stronger.

I had the same experience as lucifer!

When I did my rear suspension last summer I had the car up on jack stands using exactly those spots since my rear jack points are long MIA. I got back the next day and my car was at a weird angle, when I looked underneath one of the jackstands had completely penetrated that beam, and the other one was halfway through. When I jacked up the car it was so imbeded it went up with the car, still attached.

I've found the attachment point of the trailing arm to be decent, I just put some wheels or extra stands under the rear subframe as insurance in case they were ever to slip.

[Raf99]

So I'm thinking of putting a 2x4 along the rockers and putting jack stands under these. My rear jack points are messed up but the surrounding area is good. I've done it this way before too.

Then I will also have a jack in the rear, plus tires under the rockers for triple protection.

[Dano]

ouff, I don't know man, the 2x4 bit sounds sketchy - maybe I'm just not picturing it right, I guess I imagine a 2x4 across the width of the car, and the jack stands somewhere along the length of it. I would be scared of the leverage effect from the length of the wood, etc. Like I said, maybe my visual is off, but at the very least I would use a couple 2x6 laminated together if you have enough room to get the jack under that, and to be honest, the whole idea of supporting the car by wood would scare me.


Good move on the extra security with the tires, etc!

[Raf99]

ouff, I don't know man, the 2x4 bit sounds sketchy - maybe I'm just not picturing it right, I guess I imagine a 2x4 across the width of the car, and the jack stands somewhere along the length of it. I would be scared of the leverage effect from the length of the wood, etc. Like I said, maybe my visual is off, but at the very least I would use a couple 2x6 laminated together if you have enough room to get the jack under that, and to be honest, the whole idea of supporting the car by wood would scare me.


Good move on the extra security with the tires, etc!

Ya, i was thinking the same. So I had an idea. Assuming I have to drop the rear subframe and trailing arms to get at the bolts that hold the rear gas tank straps pieces in place, couldn't I just put the trailing arm bolts back in the holes (without the trailing arm) and stick a jack there on the bolt?

Note to moderator - Maybe we should change this thread title to "Repairing the brake line above the gas tank with gas tank drop".

[Dano]

Yeah, I would trust a bolt even less than the lumber - I can't remember exactly how the attachment point of the trailing arm is configured, and the car isn't handy, but could you look at putting the head of the jackstand directly in/on the attachment point itself even without the arm there?

Also, and a bigger point - there MUST be some way to re-attach the straps to approximately the same area without having to pull the whole rear subframe, no? Are you thinking the front or rear attachment bolts?

[Raf99]

Yeah, I would trust a bolt even less than the lumber - I can't remember exactly how the attachment point of the trailing arm is configured, and the car isn't handy, but could you look at putting the head of the jackstand directly in/on the attachment point itself even without the arm there?

Also, and a bigger point - there MUST be some way to re-attach the straps to approximately the same area without having to pull the whole rear subframe, no? Are you thinking the front or rear attachment bolts?

Hmm, good point. Why not put the jack stands where the trailing arm bolts are. hmmm. Ya i dunno. I only need to do this if I need to drop the rear subframe.

From what I gather, its the rear bolts that are the issue. I know the whole bracket is rattling around up there, so the 2nd set of bolts came loose. Someone else mentioned this problem too. (picture) the rear straps bolt into a bracket. This brack has its own bolt which goes into the car. The rear subframe is in the way of getting at these bolts. Maybe a wrench will work, I'm about to find out.

[Dano]

Ok, so in the diagram you're talking about part 003 - Bracket Fuel Tank Band.

and the problem is that the bracket is no longer attatched to the sub-frame by part 007?

is the bolt broken in the bracket/subframe? Can it be extracted/re-tapped? If it's out can you re-tap the threads? What about just welding the bracket directly to the sub-frame?

Failing that, I sort of recall a lip in the subframe around there, could you drill a hole through the lip and fab a new bracket to mount to the subframe without having to drop the whole thing?

let loose with a pic or two if you have 'em....

[Raf99]

Ok, so in the diagram you're talking about part 003 - Bracket Fuel Tank Band.

and the problem is that the bracket is no longer attatched to the sub-frame by part 007?

is the bolt broken in the bracket/subframe? Can it be extracted/re-tapped? If it's out can you re-tap the threads? What about just welding the bracket directly to the sub-frame?

Failing that, I sort of recall a lip in the subframe around there, could you drill a hole through the lip and fab a new bracket to mount to the subframe without having to drop the whole thing?

let loose with a pic or two if you have 'em....

This may answer your questions:



The gas tank strap bolts into a bracket. This bracket bolts into the car. To access the bolt of the bracket the rear subframe must be dropped. I know my shit is wiggling around like mad, so I think my bracket bolt has come loose. And my strap bolts won't come out (in the rear).

[uslspct]

So finally dropped it. Stupid humid stormy weather. My bracket isn't as bad as yours. I think I'm gonna reuse them and the straps. As far as everything else, I'm going to replace if there's a part available. But making a new brake line is beyond me. The line is just slightly rusted through to leak, overall your whole setup is worse than mine. Here's my shit, the fuel pump bolts were rusted bad but it came out no problem...

[Raf99]

So finally dropped it. Stupid humid stormy weather. My bracket isn't as bad as yours. I think I'm gonna reuse them and the straps. As far as everything else, I'm going to replace if there's a part available. But making a new brake line is beyond me. .....

After cleaning mine up it wasn't that bad. I'm still going to replace everything as its my project car. As for your rusted brake line there's no easy way to do it except flare a line in there. Start reading I guess, learn how to do it or get someone to help ya out.

[Raf99]

Today was an interesting day to say the least.

- Cleaned up old tank. Yep still need new shit.
- Realized the strap bracket bolts were loose. Not coming out.
- Pulled rear subframe
- Pulled strap brackets
- Broke bolts on LCA attached to subframe
- Going to remove trailing arm, rear drum setup and replace with disc setup while I have everything off.




Never knew there was a line in the line...




All of my bolts came loose no problem as well, but i think i'll replace everything..




It had to come to this.......


because of these...




Not sure how anyone gets that bolt back on if it were to come off properly..




All set to clean this puppy up!!


Or not...


Now i feel dumb..., yes that's the other side.



Not sure how easy its going to be to replace the emergency brake cable with the other one I have. It looks like I have to take the muffler down and rug out to get at the point where the cable goes through the body.

I also now need to tap the bolts out that I broke or get a new rear subframe with LCA's

I'm also realizing that the brake line fittings at the end of the broken line we are working on are rusted and the line broke at that end while trying to loosen them.

[Raf99]

You can see here where I decided to cut the brake line. I'll flare it there and bend the other line the same as the old one.

[uslspct]

Are you going to get a new tank? I figured I might as well. It was clean inside though. I also figure it's probably a good idea to flare the line out before it goes over the tank and route the new line around the tank somewhere, instead of over it.

Replacing the e-brake cable is just annoying if you don't have a lift.