coolant bleeder hole no water coming out when bleeding the system !!

[jhondayaaj]

Did you replace anything, repair any wires? Best thing to do is to back track yourself and double check your work before opening up a can of worms. So back track yourself first.

[EsperHamid]

Did you replace anything, repair any wires? Best thing to do is to back track yourself and double check your work before opening up a can of worms. So back track yourself first.

I've been back tracking since the first time I tried to start the car and yeah as my OP states that I repaired the wires of the ECT switches A & B near the radiator and the t-stat housing however both of them have continuity with the negative battery cable !!

Should I disconnect the wires of the ECT switches and try to run the car to see if it starts ?!?!

[jhondayaaj]

Seems to me that you may switched the wires backwards.

[EsperHamid]

Seems to me that you may switched the wires backwards.

what are the consequences ?! does it affect the ECU ... no fuses are burned all are good both the under hood and the dash fuse boxes.

I don't think so since, the plastic housing of the connectors doesn't fit in any other way than it should be and I tested both black wires and they have continuity with the negative battery cable.

can I run the car with the switches disconnected .. because frankly I don't want the battery to lose voltage when cranking .. since I don't have a charger for it and it is now @ 12.37 V

edit:
=====

I disconnected both switches and tested continuity from the fuse box ground to the battery ground and I am getting a beep !! will the car start with the switches disconnected ??!??!?!

[EsperHamid]

Tomorrow gonna check the wires if switched coz its already dark....but just to rule things out ...will cb7 start with the ect connectors disconnected?

[EsperHamid]

Looks like u were right again, however I wasn't the one who,switched them but the mechanic that replaced my engine .... seems he didnt switch the cables but in fact he switched the connectors so I guess the the ECT switches are toasted don't u think?

I will rewire them according to the honda diagram and see if the car will start ...I hope I get lucky

[EsperHamid]

FIXED THE CONNECTORS !! still no start !! and the boom is coming from the bottom of the car ... I think it is from the down pipe near the O2 sensor .....also fuel smell can be detected ... i removed the gas cap and tried to start the car again ... crank no start !!

1 - I fixed the soldering cracks in the main relay 6 month ago so I don't think it is the relay.
2 - there's continuity when I fixed the wires now
3 - If there's something wrong in the fuel pump I wouldn't smell gas in the engine bay when trying to run the car ....

I don't know ... I tried everything ..... NO CEL !! ...could it be the thermostat ?! but the bleeder hole comes after it and I was able to successfully fill the system with coolant.

[jhondayaaj]

Wow. Seems like you did open up a can of worms. First off, was the car running good prior to you taking off all the sensors and t switch? If so, check for spark obviously you have fuel because you said that you can smell fuel. If you do have fuel and spark, then check your spark plug wires and make sure they are installed correctly at the distributor. Is it a strong crank or a weak crank? Have someone start the engine while you look inside the oil cap to make sure the rocker assy are moving. Try this first and go from there.

[jhondayaaj]

Yes, I believe it will still start. Shouldn't affect it.
As for your t switch and sensor, it should still be ok. Why did you replace the engine?

[EsperHamid]

Yes, I believe it will still start. Shouldn't affect it.
As for your t switch and sensor, it should still be ok. Why did you replace the engine?

the engine replacement was 7 month ago .. it was another story .. you can find it somewhere in the forum under " crazy bad mile age " thread but that's long ago.

I didn't open a can of worms... I did remove the t-stat housing to unclog the bleeder hole and removed the ECT switches A & B to test them as I mentioned through this thread.

Car was working before that, yeah I did adjust the metallic pipe that connects to the t-stat housing because it wasn't right when trying to bolt down the t-stat housing to the IM ... however I have no leaks whatsoever.
it is a strong crank .. I had the upper cam gear cover removed because I was cleaning so I am certain it is cranking and the battery voltage increased from 12.32 to 12.39 V

[EsperHamid]

cam pulley view.............................................. .......................................bottom view

[EsperHamid]

saw this on http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl965h.htm
this was the answer:
================
A." It sounds like the engine is flooding. What you need to do is install your fuel pressure gauge, start the engine and let it warm up. Keep an eye on the gauge and make sure the fuel pressure is normal.

Now shut the engine off and immediately clamp of the fuel inlet and return lines. Now watch the fuel pressure. If it goes down you have a leaking injector(s) and they will need to be replaced.

If the fuel pressure should hold steady, then the most likely culprit is the Coolant Temperature sensor. It is common for them to go bad and tell the engine it is cold when it's not and flood the engine."


it is for my car too 1990 accord EX ,,, but here do they mean the TW or the ECT switches ?! If it was the TW I would be getting code 6 on the ECU .. but I am getting no blinks at all, even when I short the blue connector no codes on the dashboard

[EsperHamid]

what I did so far since the morning is remove the spark plugs and turn the engine manually through the P/S pulley and I could smell a powerful gas odor from the holes, I guess it was flooded from trying to start it up several times yesterday

[EsperHamid]

Update Car Runs But ......

Update:
======
alright so what I did in the past 48 hours was to remove all the Engine wire harness and cleaned after it was soaked with oil that leak was a long time ago... and I changed all the tape on the plastic tubes so no need to panic they are white now..... I re-installed it .. hit the key and the car runs !! NO CEL !! whatsoever.

time to bleed the coolant system cause idle wasn't stable and all my vacuum lines are in a great condition. so according to ETGC video ... I bled the system .. however ... the fans wouldn't come on after holding the throttle @ 2500 !! .. also the coolant started boiling inside the funnel and it would spit outside it ... also the coolant went above upper limit seems the engine returned hot coolant to the overfill bottle !!

so I shut down the car for fear of having another engine destroyed !! ... what is the cause of the problem ?!?! I know that there's no problem with the fans whatsoever .. the radiator was emptied ... there's no leaks from the coolant lines too !!

car still hot I tested the thermo switch A & B with an Ohm meter there's no readings whatsoever !! ... are my wirings correct ?!

edit: both TW sensor and sender gauge are working since the needle moves on the dash and the heat stayed on normal op temp

[EsperHamid]

Thermo switches / coolant switches A & B are dead !! since I jumped both of their connectors and the fans turn car starts fine but not idling properly but that's in another thread..this one problem solved