coolant bleeder hole no water coming out when bleeding the system !!

[EsperHamid]

water is not coming out of the bleeder hole when I try to bleed air from the cooling system !! ... strange .. if I fill the radiator the excess comes back to the overfill bottle and coolant don't go out of the bleeding hole... even though I opened it as per Eric the car guy video ... and I used to bleed the system long ago the same way no problem !!!

what could it be ?!

[EsperHamid]

Engine cold, removed the ECT near the radiator and it isn't reading any resistance at all, yesterday I found one of the wires of the ECT switch cut ... the yellow one.

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#14 (on thermostat housing) and #15 switches/sensors are not reading any resistance at all, they should be 5 KOhm when cold right !?!
also when disconnected and the key is turned to the ON position ... ECU doesn't throw any CEL !!

My TW sensor, I wrapped up with suttertone to the head because the plastic housing was cracked, that's why I won't remove it to test it ... and thank GOD no oil leak from the distributor so no need to worry ..shutterton still strong .. my guess is that if the TW sensor was out.. I would be having a CEL code 6, No ?! I don't have it.
also temp on my dash always show normal op temp ... I don't know how this car has been running without the engine getting toasted !!

strangely cooling and condensor fans kick in too however they act strangely sometimes.

[jhondayaaj]

I would suggest taking the bleeder screw out and use a pin or a paper clip to poke the hole because it may be corroded and creating a restriction.

And as for your switch and sensor question, why are you replacing them? Or checking them?

[EsperHamid]

I would suggest taking the bleeder screw out and use a pin or a paper clip to poke the hole because it may be corroded and creating a restriction.

And as for your switch and sensor question, why are you replacing them? Or checking them?

because in another thread not one week ago, I took out the IM to clean the EGR passages and when I finished putting everything back ,,,, I wanted to bleed the cooling system ... strangely the coolant wouldn't come out at all from the bleeding valve.

I thought something might be wrong with the cooling system components since there are no leaking from any hose. Also the engine valve cover is hotter than normal although the temp gauge on the dashboard works flawlessly and shows normal op temp ..strange

another thing, none of my vacuum hoses has any cracks ... but when trying to set the base idle ... it doesn't go below 700 when I remove the IACV connector.

P.S: I did test the IAT sensor (IM) just to check if my multimeter is faulty .. but it is not, I was able to read resistance on the IAT sensor

[jhondayaaj]

If your temp is fine then I wouldn't worry about the sensor and switch. I would just take out the bleeder screw and do what I suggested.

[EsperHamid]

If your temp is fine then I wouldn't worry about the sensor and switch. I would just take out the bleeder screw and do what I suggested.

Maybe the temperature sending unit isn't giving the true data ?! I will test it.

Frankly I am afraid of losing this engine as I did with previous one ... the ECT switch B at the previous engine had its connector broken and when the fan kicked in it was disconnected by the blowing air and before I know it water returned to the overfill bottle and the engine was toasted that's how my F22a4 died.

come to think of it ... the ECT switch A the one on the thermostat housing has remained since my previous engine ...but then again ... I was able to bleed the system many times after that.

Anyway I will do what you suggested .. I will take out the thermostat housing and will clean it !! but in case it was just clogged ... should I or should I not replace the ECT switches A & B since I wasn't able to read any resistance ?! I even tried the stove boiling water test ... no readings from both

[jhondayaaj]

You don't have to take the thermostat housing out. Just unscrew the bleeder screw all the way out and put a pin or a paper clip and poke it in the hole.

As for your sensor and your switch and the sending unit, I wouldn't fix anything unless its broke. If your temp gauge is still working, do not replace the sending unit. And if both of your fans come on when its suppose to, then the fan switch and the sensor is good.

[EsperHamid]

And if both of your fans come on when its suppose to, then the fan switch and the sensor is good.

I know they kick in ....but that's the problem how should I know when it's a good time ?! .. how do you explain the consequences that I found the yellow wire of the switch on the upper radiator hose neck broken ... wouldn't that had toasted the switch ?
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=199524

[EsperHamid]

the bleeder hole was clogged u were right ... should I open it more ???

[jhondayaaj]

Leve the hole same size as Oem as it is only a bleeder hole. Not intended for anything else.

As for the fans, basically when you first start the engine, it should come on a few minutes after the thermostat has opened. The switch and the sensor either work or don't work. As for the broken wire, just find another connector and it the wires off and install the new/used connector. That's all you can do about that.

[EsperHamid]

Leve the hole same size as Oem as it is only a bleeder hole. Not intended for anything else.

As for the fans, basically when you first start the engine, it should come on a few minutes after the thermostat has opened. The switch and the sensor either work or don't work. As for the broken wire, just find another connector and it the wires off and install the new/used connector. That's all you can do about that.

No !! what you see in the picture was completely clogged .. I think it was rust or limestone .. our water has too much limestone. I

I poked it with a PC screw driver in order to open it, is that enough ?! I don't know how much the OEM size should be

every video on youtube and google state that ECT switches should have a resistance of 5 KOhm when engine is cold that's why I am frustrated cause I think they are not working, besides at what temp the thermostat opens ... my fans don't turn on when I start the car never happened !! they turn only when normal operation temp is reached

[EsperHamid]

alright so I cleaned the thermostat housing pretty well, unclogged the bleeder hole ... now it bleeds OK, I filled the system with coolant. Went to turn on the car ... it cranked but didn't start + I heard a mini booooooooom ...ECU didn't show any blinks I jacked up the car and looks like I didn't connect the O2 sensor connector on the down pipe.

Restarted the car.... same thing cranks ... several booms from the bottom of the IM ...doesn't start also strong as odor from the IM ....

I released the gas filling cap to release pressure then went to check the negative cables .. I found no continuity between the negative battery cable and the ground cable that goes to the fuse box under the hood ... also I checked the fuses under the hood all of them are good. ... Looks like the thick ground cable that's connected to the fuse box under the hood is part of the wire harness that goes under the IM .. but where does the ground cable end ?!?!?!

all other ground points have continuity with the battery negative cable .... only the thick one belonging to the harness seems off the grid !! ...I scrapped them with sand paper and then with carb cleaner ... still nothing !!!! .... DAMN !! any suggestions ?!

[EsperHamid]

where does it end .. I know it is part of the harness that goes under the IM

[jhondayaaj]

Ground wire by t stat housing. Check that.

[EsperHamid]

Ground wire by t stat housing. Check that.

Already did.... the ground cable on the t-stat has continuity with the battery negative ground however it doesnt have continuity with the ground under the hood fuse box also the ground under the hood fuse box is thicker than the one under the t-stat housing..

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Frankly I am not getting a beep on my multimeter for continuity but rather a number does that mean anything?????