Hello, I mainly lurk around this great sight, loads of info. Long story short. Four years ago my F22a6 blew a head gasket, was burning coolant, and overheated. I pulled the head, found it was slightly warped so I replaced it with a reman cylinder head. The car has ran great until about two weeks ago. I noticed coolant loss two weeks ago and bubble noises in my overflow. I suspect the worst ofcourse, head gasket. I have been a diesel mechanic for the last 21 years, I repair and build 10-15 ltr engines for a living. I used a reman head, felpro head gasket set, and reused the head bolts back then. I began pulling the head off today after work. The engine has not over heated, hope the head checks out good with a straight edge. Wondering if I should have used a oem head gasket, or replaced the head bolts. The block checked out flat last time. Thinking of going with honda gasket and studs for more clamping force. Ive read somewhere about a copper spray some use on automotive head gaskets. Ive never used it in my trade, if I should whats It called? The engines I build have removable cylinder liners. When I install these liners during a reman or if a head gasket blows there is a spec called liner protrusion. Basically I verify that the liner sits above the block deck to whatever the spec may be, usually .002-.006". The liner protrusion ensures proper clamping force around the fire rings of the head gasket. Being that my engine is open deck, should I have protrusion? What im asking is should the cylinders be sitting a few thousandths above the perimiter of the block surface? Thank You.
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"Brought to you by Carls Jr." -
Simple answer is no. On our engines th entire head including the piston liners should sit flush no protrusion. -
Thank you"Brought to you by Carls Jr."Comment
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The OEM cylinder sleeves and the block should all be flat. Some people machine the block and leave the sleeves a hair higher to promote a seal when trying for high hp; I believe its called a step deck.
As for the copper gasket spray, its a preference call. I've heard about an equal amount of yes and no's. Permatex makes some
I've never used a felpro HG, but you cant go wrong with OEM. I'm sure both would work fine if you have perfectly flat surfaces that are clean. I would replace the head bolts this time around also, since those have been through 2 torque cycles and were in the overheated motor.
Formerly 91AccordExR33
11.68 @ 127mph
417whp/375wtq
Sold: 8/2016
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Well pulled the head last night. Intake had loads of oil in it. Cross hatching in cylinders polished. Looks like ill be pulling the pan and pistons tonight. Take some measurements. Cylinders don't look too bad, no scoring, no ledge at the top. Prob just going to hone cylinders, New rings, New bearings and call it good. Head still looks great, not that old. Will verify will straight edge. Was thinking to myself that this would be a good time to install higher compression pistons, until I saw the price hah."Brought to you by Carls Jr."Comment
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people have been throwing around the idea of k series pistons and modifying stock rods to accept the wrist pin for a budget higher comp build.Originally posted by totaldoughnut View Post
I'd look into that with your skillset and desire, it shouldn't be a big deal at all. I think its the k20a2 pison, but I am not sure so don't quote me on that. Jarrett knows EVERYTHING it seems about exact sizes, maybe he could fill in the blanks on what I am referring to.Originally posted by wed3kComment
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Don't forget to add in the cost of tuning if you plan on upping your compression. Timing and fuel maps will have to be changed to coincide with the added compression.Comment
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He would have to bore the engine out to 86mm or 87mm to fit K-Series, but other than that there is the option of F20B pistons I believe that F23A rods will work....C/R would be around 12.35:1. Jarrett or someone more knowledgeable might be able to chime in.'94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq
Originally posted by deevergoteComment
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The K20A2 piston would be a great choice if cost isn't an issue. In fact, there are quite a few OEM pistons that wouldn't be half bad if it weren't for them having an 86mm bore. However, if you're willing to overbore the block and rebush the small ends of your rods then you're good to go. These are the costs I'm referring to.
J30A1 pistons may be a more streetable option, though. They share the same 22mm wirst pin diameter and are a 30mm tall piston just like the K20A2. They're dished for slightly lower compression as the J30A1 was more of an economy engine. They would put you around a 10.2:1 after the overbore whereas K20A2 pistons would be near the 11.5:1 mark. J30A4 pistons would be even higher than the CR attained from the J30A1 pistons in the 10.5:1 range. This is all considering that you would use an F22A crankshaft, rods and cylinder head.
F23A rods have use a smaller rod journal at 48mm vs. 51mm for the F22A/B and H22A and H23A. The journal couldn't even be turned down to match it because the F23A rod is .780" wide vs. .935" that every other F/H series engine is.Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
I've seen F20B pistons work and I have two spare sets that I've been meaning to play around with. Your compression ratio would be higher than what you suggested at around 12.7:1 with the standard gasket. A thicker one would obviously lower it some. My opinion is that someone building an engine only replacing pistons and doing so with OEM units likely isn't focusing on all of the other points required to run an engine with such a high compression. In that case, it's usually best avoided.Last edited by Jarrett; 05-02-2013, 04:52 PM.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
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Wow, thanks for all the tips. Amazes me how much you can do to these little engines using different oem parts. Think im just going to use my existing pistons. But I did learn something new today. Four years ago when I purchased my reman cylinder head from a local machine shop it came complete with cam and rockers all installed and adjusted. So I figured sweet I put it on and gave him mine as a core. My engine is an F22a6, ive already installed the a4 header, and have the h22 plenum and tb that ill install when I go back together. But the cam in my head is stamped 3A. You all probably know what that means. Means im going to pick n pull saturday to search for a 4B cam. Argh"Brought to you by Carls Jr."Comment
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Argh, you guys actually work on these engines for fun? Took me a while to get motivated and make a little progress today. Been busy at work doing an engine swap, hard to get into working on engines again after work. Got the down pipe and chassis support removed. Pulled the pan, pick up tube, and windage tray. Stopped when I cracked my socket on a main bolt. Ill have to bring good tools home from work this weekend. That main cap girdle kind of has me stumped a little. Was hoping to pop all the pistons out tonight. What stumps me is that I need to pull all the main bolts out to remove the girdle to gain access to the pistons. But, if I pull all the main bolts im thinking the crank will put to much weight on the seals. When I rebuild a diesel engine in chassis I pull all main caps except for two to prevent that, but were talking about a huge heavy crankshaft. Think ill place a bottle jack under the front nose of the crank and wedge of wood between the flex plate and trans housing to support the crank. Then remove girdle, then lightly secure two caps with some shorter bolts."Brought to you by Carls Jr."Comment
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I don't know about the cam...I made 131 with a1 cam, pt3 ecu, bored throttle body, a6 manifold, header and an electronic cut out. Stock rebuilt engine with performance valve job and .020 taken off the deck and headComment
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Just remove the engine. It should be a fairly easy project for you.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
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It's a lot easier to get motivated when your hobby and your job aren't one in the same....Originally posted by totaldoughnut View Post
X2 on pulling the engine.
I find pulling the engine in these cars is so much easier than trying to work on them while the are in the bay. However, if you have a lift and that is what you are used to doing. Then I wouldn't change it up.
Sounds like you are making good progress on it..... for a diesel mechanic...lol j/k Best of luck.
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Is it possible to pull pistons from bottom on F22 engines?A&P-IAComment
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