So for the past month and a half my car idles between 100-300rpm. It bounces. After warming up it may idle perfectly right at 1100rpm. But then it will go back down to 100-300rpm. For some strange reason, it won't idle at all when the car is at a stop downhill. So I have to ebrake and give it gas to keep the car on. If I dump the clutch I have to shift quickly or rev match because the idle will drop so far that it won't recover. I have cleaned my IACV but to no avail. I have an S2 Manifold so EGR is removed and blocked off. Ignition switch replaced roughly 6 months ago. Any ideas? I'm thinking I should replace the IACV itself but before I invest that money I want to make sure it's the right call.
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Try testing the IAVC first to see if it's the problem. How's the throttle cable slack? Did you clean the throttle body? Has some one mess with your idle screw? Idling at 1100rpm is too high and not perfect. You should be at 850 warm. Start the car, pull the IAVC, idle should dip low, and plug it back in, it should jump right back up. CEL will be on when you test the IAVC. Test also the TPS. How's the plugs and cables? Coolant level? FITV?
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I topped off coolant last night, and the throttle cable is also roughly about 6 months old. I sprayed the throttle body last night as well. The throttle body is also roughly about 6 months old; it's an S2 Alpha. I prefer to keep my idle at 1000-1100rpm, but that's just me. I'll check the FITV.'94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq
Originally posted by deevergoteIf you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...
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check your map sensor , make sure you have no air leaks . have you checked for stored code's . i've learned that the ecu's will store codes with out setting of the check engine light . does the car run rich or lean ? what is your compression on the the piston's ? do you go through a lot of coolant ? does it over heat ? what is your timing set for ? try a different iacv that's a known good one from another cb . ooooo that little red hose that run from the intake to the charcoal canister make sure that is still on and not leaking and the can aint leaking.
edit pics of your intake set up might help.this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
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whats your mpg?this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
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I'll get pics up later tonight. But in the meantime, I chucked the charcoal canister when I did the swap, and that other black box too. Car was running fine after that. (Car swapped back in '08) I have some kind of ghetto rigged map sensor. I'm not sure why the guy did it but he did. The car has always run rich. I'm not sure what timing is set at since I didn't set it. I generally get about 410-450miles to one tank....I run out of gas at about 475-480miles.'94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq
Originally posted by deevergoteIf you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...
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Originally posted by Joey GT-R View PostI have some kind of ghetto rigged map sensorthis was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
Comment
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here we go again . we all know it stops at 500 .this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
Comment
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Bad injector maybe. Possible coil going out. Fouled plug. One plug wire going bad.
Those are the only things I could think of.
The IAT could maybe be a problem. In my s300 it has temps and what the idle you want at that temp. So it could be reading wrong.
you are running a p13 I assume?
Steve
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Originally posted by reklipz View PostIt's a valid question, that's all. If the OP is misreading the gauge, then it doesn't matter what we suggest for solutions, as it will be wrong.this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
Comment
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I dunno, the map sensor has always been like that, I've been planning to get a new harness to re do on the swap, but I never get around to it. I doubt after 4+ years it's the case now, but maybe.
My rpm needle dips LOW. and then comes back up. You're right it doesn't read lower than 500rpm. For some reason I always equate it in my mind to the tach starting at 0rpm but it doesn't work like that. My bad for the confusion. Let's say the idle fluctuates between 350rpm and 500rpm.
I'm running a P28 tuned on CromePro. I might switch to Neptune RTP Demon soon. Thinking maybe a retune might possibly tell me where my bug is.
I meant to post pics last night but the sky opened up so no go. I will post pics of the IACV which is the one that doesn't attach to the manifold. As well as the rest of my intake setup. Don't mind the dirty bay.
Also, sometimes when the car shuts off, I have to hard start it to cut on. Would that definitely mean an electrical issue? Or narrow it down?Last edited by Joey GT-R; 03-12-2013, 12:58 PM.'94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq
Originally posted by deevergoteIf you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...
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so you have a chiped p28 ok get the stock ecu and go from there . just to play it safe bro. are you running a h22 , h23 , f22 , f20 .this was put together by evil_demon_01 . You can also fined all this and more by him in the Common Beginner Technical Info can be found in here. PLEASE READ HERE FIRST
Not this one though.1990 to 1993 accord fuel psi .
Car safety checks
Diagnose a Check Engine Light (also S/D4 transmission error codes)
How to Set Base Idle Properly (F22ax, F22bx)
Cheapest Suspension Setup to Lower Your CB7
Fluid Capacities
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