H22 trans randomly started grinding into 2nd...

[eazyduzit509]

Adjusted the clutch basically all the way up, no slop, still started to grind lightly after about 15 minutes of driving. Didnt notice any leaks, inside on the firewall, outside, hydro lines or the slave (boot is dry inside). Gonna bleed the system next. Gonna have the girlfriend push my clutch in when the car is cold, measure the distance the slave is traveling, then re-mesure when its warm and beggining to grind to see if its still traveling as far and eliminate any hydraulic/pedal related issue. Atleast that will narrow it down. Appreciate the ideas!

[h22sparkle]

remember 5 from bleeding the system you should use the bench press the message by using 1 reservoir in the car and the other filled up just in case with it hope I'm on the fly some of the on the nipple of the hydraulic line.

[Granite CB7]

Sounds like you are on the right track w/ measuring the stroke of the slave cyl. Also, make sure you have SOME/ALITTLE freeplay like the helm's manual states, zero freeplay will destroy the clutch master cylinder. I've had great success w/ honda MTF over the years. My M2B4 has the typical 5th gear grind, when cold, it will grind if you shift too quickly, but when completely warmed up, it is just fine.

[wed3k]

are you just trying to avoid having the transmission replaced? because thats what it ultimately is going to have to happen.

[eazyduzit509]

Little update. Have about 1000 miles on GM synchromesh, seems its helped. I'm still curious, in the morning when I drive the car and the tranny is still "cold", it shifts great for a good 10-15 minutes. I can drive to work without it grinding at all. As soon as everything has warmed up it starts grinding. Then just gets worse and worse until I let it sit awhile. One would think the viscosity of the MTF is thinning out with the warming, why else would it only grind when hot? I'm not denying the fact that I may need new synchros, but its got me thinking, maybe I can try the redline MTF or something thicker than the synchromesh (seems pretty thin, much like typical engine oil) it won't "break down" as much with the heat and help cushion a little better. You would think if a synchro is gone, its GONE. not only grinding when warmed up.

Maybe the synchromesh friction modifier?

Thanks, Eazy

are you just trying to avoid having the transmission replaced? because thats what it ultimately is going to have to happen.

No..... its an intermittent issue that only happens when warm. I'm sure they're starting to go, but for why it shifts like god himself is sliding in each tooth with precision when its "cold" and gets worse as I drive more I don't know. As long as I've been working on cars and roaming car forums its been known to DIAGNOSE an issue and not just throw parts at it. Until I am certain the synchros are GONE and its not something else causing it, I will keep digging at it.

[wed3k]

its because it depends on how you shift it, there's too many variables. warm, cold, rpms, speed, time between shifts, when the moon lines up with the sun...

2nd gear has always been notchy in all my cars.

[turbo90accord]

your syncros are jacked. The reason it shift decent for about 15 minutes is because the tranny fluid is still thick and when the fluid is thick it causing a good braking effect on the syncros between shifts which aids in slowing the synchronizer down quickly so it is better meshed into the next gear during a shift. This is the reason why many people running super high HP cars will use redline MTF or straight 30 weight which stays at their specific viscocity regardless of temperature. Regular oils including synchromesh will become thinner at higher temps which eliminate the braking effect of slowing the synchros down between shifts.

[eazyduzit509]

your syncros are jacked. The reason it shift decent for about 15 minutes is because the tranny fluid is still thick and when the fluid is thick it causing a good braking effect on the syncros between shifts which aids in slowing the synchronizer down quickly so it is better meshed into the next gear during a shift. This is the reason why many people running super high HP cars will use redline MTF or straight 30 weight which stays at their specific viscocity regardless of temperature. Regular oils including synchromesh will become thinner at higher temps which eliminate the braking effect of slowing the synchros down between shifts.

So it is temperature sensitive. Thank you. I would try the Redline as a bandaid until I can rebuild it with synchrotech rings, but don't want to risk ruining the bearings.

[wed3k]

so youre going to rebuild it without replacing the bearings?

[Losiracer2]

So it is temperature sensitive. Thank you. I would try the Redline as a bandaid until I can rebuild it with synchrotech rings, but don't want to risk ruining the bearings.

don't use the Redline stuff, my bearings took a shit 3 months after it was in there.

[eazyduzit509]

I'll get the bearings done as well.