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out with the old and in with the new... FINALLY!

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    out with the old and in with the new... FINALLY!

    So tomorrow I'm finally pulling out my old/worn engine and putting my project build in. This past year has been full of set backs so I'm really stoked. After having 1 bad engine build under my belt (17 successful) I've taken every possible precaution I could possibly take. I've rechecked torque on every nut and bolt no less than 4 tims, triple checked valve lash, and even plasti-gauged the bearing surfaces twice just to verify everything was absolutely perfect. I must say that this is the most nervous I've ever been about a simple rebuild with cam and springs being my only big upgrades. If anyone has any last minute tips or things to go over I'd really appreciate some input just to keep my mind in check before I finish this up tomorrow afternoon and It's too late to go back.

    #2
    Check timing, check timing and then check timing again. It's 1000 times easier to do with the engine out of the car. If you want to be tedious, install it as a long-block and put everything into place afterward. Just have the engine harness draped where it need to be for all of the intake manifold connections.

    I hope you have a load leveler.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #3
      Originally posted by bigpoppa694lyfe View Post
      I've rechecked torque on every nut and bolt no less than 4 tims.
      I dont know why that made me laugh

      Dont forget to add oil! Literally! Make sure all your fluids are full and ready before you turn the key for the last time. Prime the fuel pump and check over for leaks before starting.

      Also before I start any fresh engine for the first time, I always remove the spark plugs to lessen the stress from compression, and disable the ignition (and fuel), and crank the engine over until oil pressure is acheived. Then put the plugs back in and fire it up!

      Good luck!
      ON_N20
      Nitrous = Been there. Turbo = Now. Nitrous + Turbo?... LOADING

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        #4
        Timing has been checked atleast once an hour in the 8 hours I was in the garage today. I have a short attention span so I'm constantly messing with other little things while doing a big project. I'm putting a new clutch/flywheel on as well so I'm pulling trans and all so I can do some cleaning. I'm taking my time doing this because I gotta swap a few parts over from my current engine and my ecu won't be back from phearable.net until Friday at the soonest. One thing that I'm a little curious about... Do I have to mount my wideband o2 in the manifold or can I put it in the downpipe?

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          #5
          I already planned on priming all the systems before first start up. I really appreciate all the little tips.. I'm making a checklist of things yet to do so this is helping me greatly

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            #6
            Originally posted by bigpoppa694lyfe View Post
            Do I have to mount my wideband o2 in the manifold or can I put it in the downpipe?
            You want it (reasonably) as close to the exiting exhaust gasses as possible, assuming it is getting an even mixture of exhaust from all the cylinders.

            Mounting the wideband sensor in the same bung location that was intended for the original equipment narrowband sensor, would be a suitible location. If you are still using a narrowband sensor in conjuction with your new wideband, then you will have to weld the new wideband bung in elsewhere. What is your current manifold and exhaust set up?
            ON_N20
            Nitrous = Been there. Turbo = Now. Nitrous + Turbo?... LOADING

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              #7
              Stainless header from the junkyard... I forget the brand but It's not an expensive piece. Exhaust is a no name 2 1/2in OD catback and test pipe. Other modifications include bisi lvl 2 cam, bisi springs, and bisi intake gasket with double stacked h23 intake manifold.

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                #8
                keep it off idle while you are breaking it in, check for leaks, smoke burning off the motor and header is normal

                the faster you can have it run for 10-20 minutes the better. constant turning on and off is bad especially if it is running rich which is bad for ring break-in. (wash the cylinder walls)
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                  #9
                  Update: I didn't get to pull my engine on Wednesday like I wanted because my dad/babysitter got sick so I had to go back to daddy duty. We did manage to pulled yesterday and swapped over the last few pieces I needed to complete my build engine. If all goes according to plan, we should have the engine in and running by tomorrow afternoon. I won't be able to get any seat time in because I have to wait for my new lower ball joints to arrive and I gotta change my front struts while I'm in there. I'll be back tomorrow to provide another update.

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                    #10
                    New update: It's in and running. As suggested by wed3k I held idle at around 1500rpm for about 15 minutes. I found 1 leak at the valve cover where it apparently kicked out when mounting it. I'm gonna fix tomorrow and try again.

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                      #11
                      Ok guys... Last night everything ran great. Today it fired right up and ran for a few minutes and started sputtering out. Fire it up again and it sputters and dies. I checked firing order, vacuum, and spark. Everything checks out so I'm confused right now. Need help ASAP

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