Timing belt snapped

[ProSouth]

Before you start turning things you need to pull the valve cover and loosen all the valve adjusters all the way out. That way you can turn the cam and not worry about bending valves( if the belt breaking has not already done that). You don't need to take the distributor out and taking the plugs out will not help you turn the cam. I hope everything goes well with your car.

yeah, but we're talking about turning the engine over. some of the cylinders may have ok valves, and the valves may be closed. causing compression in the cylinder. making it hard to turn the crank over. and if he aligned the pistons as stated, he can turn the cam over without touching the valves. so no need to loosen the adjusters.

i would honestly have to pull the head at this point, just for my own sake. to make sure nothing chipped or broken wound up in my combustion chamber. or if you know a rich mechanic friend with the snap on tool that's a camera, small enough to go through the spark plug hole.

[all_accord]

Ok here it is. I have got the new timing belt on and the engine is back together however when I tried to turn it over it started then just died so I tried starting it again and it bogged and died again. Im about 90% sure its not timing if it is then its got to be with the dizzy. Im thinking its something to do with power getting to the engine like maybe the ecu or the main relay any ideas?

[92smokeaccord]

Hold ur foot on the gas. If it starts and runs rough bent valves.good luck

[all_accord]

i did in fact try that still nothing

[dj_ender]

Have you tested for fuel and spark yet?

[all_accord]

no it got dark and start rainin on me before i could do any trouble shooting

[ProSouth]

i would bet on a few valves not closing off all the way. poor/low compression. do like ender said check fuel and spark. your pretty sure on your timing. fuel/spark/timing/compression hope it works out man.

[dysfunk]

Test the ignitor. I replaced the ignitor right after having the timing belt done, and running a little rough. I replaced the distributor with a used unit, due to my ignitor being bad. I also noticed that a tooth inside of the distributor was missing. Once I replaced the distributor, the car ran great.

This very well could be your issue. Good luck.

If you have a haynes manual, look on page 5-5 in the far right column. It explains how to test the ignitor.

Test the ignitor. I replaced the ignitor right after having the timing belt done, and running a little rough. I replaced the distributor with a used unit, due to my ignitor being bad. I also noticed that a tooth inside of the distributor was missing. Once I replaced the distributor, the car ran great.

This very well could be your issue. Good luck.

If you have a haynes manual, look on page 5-5 in the far right column. It explains how to test the ignitor.

Igniter/ignition control module (ICM) - check and replacement

Check

1 Remove the distributor cap and the ignitor cover. (Here you will have to remove the rotor as well. You can stick a screw driver in between the igniter cover and the rotor and give it a tug.)

2 Disconnect wires from the igniter unit.

3 With the ignition key turned ON (engine not running), check for voltage between the black/yellow wire (middle terminal off the igniter unit) and the body ground. There should be battery voltage.

4 If there is no voltate, check the circuit between the black/yellow wire and the ignition switch.

5 With the ignition key turned ON (engine not running), check for voltage between the white/blue wire (1990-91 models only) or the light green on 1992-93 models and body ground. There should be battery voltage. Note: Both types are located on the end terminal of the igniter unit.

6 if there is no voltage, check the circuit between the corresponding wire and the ignition coil.

7 Check for continuity between the yellow/green wire (1990-91 models) or the light green (92-93 models) and the ECU. Check for continuity between the blue wire from the tachometer terminal and the igniter. There should be between 1.1K to 3.3K ohms.

8 If all the checks are OK, replace the igniter. Note: When installing the igniter, pack silicone grease in the connector housing.


Replacement

9 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. Caution: if the radio in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

10 Remove the distributor cap and cover from the distributor.

11 Remove all the electrical connectors from the igniter unit.

12 Remove the two sets of screws from the igniter body and pull the igniter unit straight out.

13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

[all_accord]

So I checked Ive got fuel Ive got spark Im in timing. The only one I cant check is compression being I have no money or a ride to autozone fml...

[oyajicool]

You don't need any gauge.
You still can find it out by turning the crank by hand and feel the compression.
If you have a bent valve, you will not build any pressure at all.

[ProSouth]

Oyajicool is right, though it may be harder to tell on a 4cyl if say only one cyl has bent valves. But, you didn't hear any loud clunking? If you have fuel spark and timing, I'd begin pulling the head. Or rent a comp. tester from auto store

[oyajicool]

You use only one plug at a time. Easy turn.

[all_accord]

ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!! lol thanks everyone for all the help dontthink i couldhave doneit without yall. Not sure what the problem was I just went thru and checked, double checked, and triple check everthing tinkering as I went and the car just started.

[Straight Success]

No bent valves? If not, you're lucky.

[RyanD]

ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!! lol thanks everyone for all the help dontthink i couldhave doneit without yall. Not sure what the problem was I just went thru and checked, double checked, and triple check everthing tinkering as I went and the car just started.

i want a vid!

count your stars!