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    Top compression ring on the bottom?

    I just rebuilt my accord and I now realized that I probably put the top compression ring 2nd and 2nd ring on the top. They were OEM rings and I instinctively put the one labelled "T1" on the top and "T2" 2nd.


    The car is running very well, like new, but could this cause problems?
    “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
    ― Jeremy Clarkson




    Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


    Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

    #2
    What kind of compression do you have? One is the compression ring and one is the "scraper", still both are similar and are often confused. You may never see a problem since your oil ring is still on the bottom. Call your local honda dealer and see if a service writer or adviser will look it up for you. Sry that's not a real answer man.
    GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
      What kind of compression do you have? One is the compression ring and one is the "scraper", still both are similar and are often confused. You may never see a problem since your oil ring is still on the bottom. Call your local honda dealer and see if a service writer or adviser will look it up for you. Sry that's not a real answer man.
      When I checked it at about 1300 miles (or maybe it was 300 i don't remember), it had 185 PSI across all cylinders. This was on a cold engine and not a WOT. I didn't take all the spark plugs out either.

      What I am concerned about is what I read online. Someone said that the top ring on top cars is made stronger than the 2nd ring. For instance, the first ring takes more heat than the 2nd, 300o as compared to 600o on the top. Therefore the top maybe made from stronger materials such a moly.
      But, I also heard that the "moly" is only a coating for the break in period
      “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
      ― Jeremy Clarkson




      Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


      Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

      Comment


        #4
        Holy crap, that's pretty high for a cold engine and not WOT. What kind of setup are you running? I would look at your link but I'm on my phone and don't really want to skim through an entire thread. The moly is just a coating, but I'm not sure if it wears off after its broken in. Generally removing the plugs doesn't make a huge diff. I say test it again. Warm and WOT with all plugs removed for the most Precise test. Remember to ground your coils.
        GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
          Holy crap, that's pretty high for a cold engine and not WOT. What kind of setup are you running? I would look at your link but I'm on my phone and don't really want to skim through an entire thread. The moly is just a coating, but I'm not sure if it wears off after its broken in. Generally removing the plugs doesn't make a huge diff. I say test it again. Warm and WOT with all plugs removed for the most Precise test. Remember to ground your coils.
          I'm just using 0.50 OS pistons and OEM rings, nothing too extraordinary. I guess the machine shop I took it to did a really good job of boring it out. Also the cylinder valves were re-seated by a machinist after he replaced 2 burnt valves.

          What does "ground your coils" mean, hook it to a battery charger?
          “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
          ― Jeremy Clarkson




          Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


          Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

          Comment


            #6
            how'd you do a compression test with the spark plugs in?
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

            Comment


              #7
              he means the other 3 plugs. so you have standard sized rings and .50 over pistons. if so i'd tear the motor down. thats not a correct set up. when you go .50 over your supposed to do the same on the rings. in other words, youll have engine blow by, and incorrect ring end gap. also ask your machinist what tolerances he went by. .003-.005" should be piston to cylinder clearance on a new bore.
              GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
                he means the other 3 plugs. so you have standard sized rings and .50 over pistons. if so i'd tear the motor down. thats not a correct set up. when you go .50 over your supposed to do the same on the rings. in other words, youll have engine blow by, and incorrect ring end gap. also ask your machinist what tolerances he went by. .003-.005" should be piston to cylinder clearance on a new bore.
                They're OS rings too, forgot to tell you.
                “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                ― Jeremy Clarkson




                Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

                Comment


                  #9
                  ok makes more sense lol. do your test like i said man. warm, WOT with all the plugs out. sounds like your alright, honestly if you've made it (i assume by previous post) over 1300 miles.
                  GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
                    ok makes more sense lol. do your test like i said man. warm, WOT with all the plugs out. sounds like your alright, honestly if you've made it (i assume by previous post) over 1300 miles.
                    Its at 7,000 miles now

                    Will do, thanks for your replies. I have an oil leak though and I think that's more important to get to right now.
                    Last edited by Mishakol129; 01-09-2013, 12:20 AM.
                    “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                    ― Jeremy Clarkson




                    Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                    Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
                      he means the other 3 plugs. so you have standard sized rings and .50 over pistons. if so i'd tear the motor down. thats not a correct set up. when you go .50 over your supposed to do the same on the rings. in other words, youll have engine blow by, and incorrect ring end gap. also ask your machinist what tolerances he went by. .003-.005" should be piston to cylinder clearance on a new bore.
                      That piston to wall clearance is way off
                      I <3 G60.

                      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
                        he means the other 3 plugs. ave standard sized rings and .50 over pistons. if so i'd tear the motor down. thats not a correct set up. when you go .50 over your supposed to do the same on the rings. in other words, youll have engine blow by, and incorrect ring end gap. also ask your machinist what tolerances he went by. .003-.005" should be piston to cylinder clearance on a new bore.
                        .004 is the OEM MAX piston to wall clearance.
                        Originally posted by Mishakol129
                        Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
                          .004 is the OEM MAX piston to wall clearance.
                          So is that what it means when it says the "limit" is .005 mm, .004?

                          The manual says the limit is .005 mm. I never knew it meant .004. Interesting.
                          “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                          ― Jeremy Clarkson




                          Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                          Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

                          Comment


                            #14
                            (mm) or ( ") ????

                            It will be big diff.

                            I would have put T1 ring on top facing inscription up ward if there's no instruction telling it otherwise.

                            I think I had D15 engine built that way. I had my son do the work back then, so I really don't remember that part well,,,,,,,
                            Last edited by oyajicool; 01-09-2013, 03:03 PM.
                            A&P-IA

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                              That piston to wall clearance is way off
                              and you think it should be what? .003-.005 INCHES which is 3-5 thousandths of an inch is what i run on EVERYTHING. strokers, big bores, no matter what. granted, i don't build car engines every day. but per HONDA MOTOR COMPANY motorcylce, ATV, and watercraft manuals, unless its a goofy engine. they all run these tolerances. guess cars are different. sry bro
                              EDIT:I apologize, I do .002-.003 inches with a max tolerance of .005. Again I apologize.
                              Last edited by ProSouth; 01-09-2013, 05:56 PM.
                              GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

                              Comment

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