First, a little background information for you guys, then on to the "meat" of the problem
Long story short, my engine overheated severely, blew the head-gasket, and filled the cylinders up with antifreeze. after a lengthy process, here I am.
I had the head resurfaced for my f22a6, and got the engine back together enough to run, but right now I have a bit of a rough idle. I need to do some fixes so things will run right, so I can finish getting the coolant bled. Hopefully this becomes a bit of a how to or something of that sort. I'll hopefully have pics so you can follow along!
Well, with the rough idle, I needed to diagnose if I have a dead cylinder, which shouldn't be the case, given all of the work I've done to the head. I pulled out plug wires with the engine running, and almost no change for each individual plug. Which leads me to my next fix, the distributor, after I pulled the CEL code, which was 9, 15, and 43. ( So I might have a bad O2 sensor thrown into the mix, but not sure, it could be a vacuum leak.)Anyways! 9 is the #1 cyl sensor, and 15 is the ignition output signal.
I've got an extra dizzy sitting around out of my old 'a1, so I figure I can re-use some of those parts from that one to make a bit of a "franken-dizzy" considering how similar the design of the system is. F22A1 Dizzy: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...1011154539.jpg
F22A6 Dizzy: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...1011154605.jpg The part in the background there is the old A1's Sparker thingie... (ARGH why do you fail me now, brain?)
WEll, unless I do some fancy rewiring, I'n not sure this idea will quite work... unless you guys think I may be able to: http://imageshack.us/a/img24/8498/20121011162243.jpg Left one is the wiring for the A6, right one is the A1. notice the pigtail on the right, and lack of one on the left?
This means that I have to put an extra wire in there for the ignitor to work right, unless I can remove the green wire entirely, and leave the pigtail on there.
The next thing I need to try is a valve adjustment. considering that I had the whole cam and valve system out of the car, a valve adjustment couldn't hurt, and may fix that rough idle. (I"ll insert more of the fix process here as I open things up, and find a feeler gauge or two to use, just for future reference)
As I go along, I"ll post more pics of the work, but I wanted a bit of the "public" opinion on how things are progressing, but I have 1 question. If I got the cam shaft one tooth off of the timing belt, would that cause a rough idle?
Long story short, my engine overheated severely, blew the head-gasket, and filled the cylinders up with antifreeze. after a lengthy process, here I am.
I had the head resurfaced for my f22a6, and got the engine back together enough to run, but right now I have a bit of a rough idle. I need to do some fixes so things will run right, so I can finish getting the coolant bled. Hopefully this becomes a bit of a how to or something of that sort. I'll hopefully have pics so you can follow along!
Well, with the rough idle, I needed to diagnose if I have a dead cylinder, which shouldn't be the case, given all of the work I've done to the head. I pulled out plug wires with the engine running, and almost no change for each individual plug. Which leads me to my next fix, the distributor, after I pulled the CEL code, which was 9, 15, and 43. ( So I might have a bad O2 sensor thrown into the mix, but not sure, it could be a vacuum leak.)Anyways! 9 is the #1 cyl sensor, and 15 is the ignition output signal.
I've got an extra dizzy sitting around out of my old 'a1, so I figure I can re-use some of those parts from that one to make a bit of a "franken-dizzy" considering how similar the design of the system is. F22A1 Dizzy: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...1011154539.jpg
F22A6 Dizzy: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...1011154605.jpg The part in the background there is the old A1's Sparker thingie... (ARGH why do you fail me now, brain?)
WEll, unless I do some fancy rewiring, I'n not sure this idea will quite work... unless you guys think I may be able to: http://imageshack.us/a/img24/8498/20121011162243.jpg Left one is the wiring for the A6, right one is the A1. notice the pigtail on the right, and lack of one on the left?
This means that I have to put an extra wire in there for the ignitor to work right, unless I can remove the green wire entirely, and leave the pigtail on there.
The next thing I need to try is a valve adjustment. considering that I had the whole cam and valve system out of the car, a valve adjustment couldn't hurt, and may fix that rough idle. (I"ll insert more of the fix process here as I open things up, and find a feeler gauge or two to use, just for future reference)
As I go along, I"ll post more pics of the work, but I wanted a bit of the "public" opinion on how things are progressing, but I have 1 question. If I got the cam shaft one tooth off of the timing belt, would that cause a rough idle?
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