Type s cams compatible with auto f20b valve train

[cb7k-9 unit]

Yes I have a great deal on a set of type s cams. I currently have the auto version f20b, I've completely modified the intake manifold. Port and polish with h22 tb plenum and iab spacer delete. Also upgrade header/down pipe. I was wondering if I could simply install the type s cams(tune of corse) and be ok. Basically could I run the stock valve train. My current setup allows me to run to 8k but it takes a while because of the midrange auto cams. Can I do this safety with out destroying my head?

[deevergote]

You should be able to. I believe people have run the Type S cams with stock base H22A springs and have been fine. You just might not want to rev it any higher than the stock redline (even though those cams may continue making power beyond that.)

You'd be safest upgrading the springs, especially since you've gotten a good deal on the cams... but you could probably get away with the stock ones if you're careful.

[Jarrett]

I doubt you'll be careful as you've performed modifications that benefit the higher-RPM range revving of the F20B. The automatic F20B cams are the most piss-ant of all the DOHC VTEC F/H-series cams. I can't say that they have part numbers different from base H22A valve springs but I know they're different from Type-S/Euro-R/Type-R/F20B SiR-T springs. If you were going to be commuting with this thing and just revving up there ever so often I would side with Deev in that you could probably abstain from upgrading the springs and it not change a thing. Something tells me you rev the piss out of that thing.

[cb7k-9 unit]

I doubt you'll be careful as you've performed modifications that benefit the higher-RPM range revving of the F20B. The automatic F20B cams are the most piss-ant of all the DOHC VTEC F/H-series cams. I can't say that they have part numbers different from base H22A valve springs but I know they're different from Type-S/Euro-R/Type-R/F20B SiR-T springs. If you were going to be commuting with this thing and just revving up there ever so often I would side with Deev in that you could probably abstain from upgrading the springs and it not change a thing. Something tells me you rev the piss out of that thing.

You would be right sir. I daily the car and rarely ever even hit vtec. But I do race occasionally. 8k normally is my shift point.

[deevergote]

8k might be a bit much for the stock springs, even with the stock cams. I don't believe the auto went that high.

I always thought that the auto F20B cams were the same as the base H22A cams, and the manual F20B cams were the same as the Type S. Am I wrong here?

[cb7k-9 unit]

Yes I would definitely rev the hell out of because I don't really make power in the low rpm range. So at the least I will upgrade the springs.

[cb7k-9 unit]

8k might be a bit much for the stock springs, even with the stock cams. I don't believe the auto went that high.

I always thought that the auto F20B cams were the same as the base H22A cams, and the manual F20B cams were the same as the Type S. Am I wrong here?

No you right, the auto has the same cams as the Jdm h22. The manual version has the type s cams as well as a stiff valve train.
I'm currently on a tune that allows me to continue making power around 8k even with auto cams

[deevergote]

The springs are really all you'll need to upgrade to make use of the Type S cams. You'll essentially be converting your auto F20B to a manual F20B (based on what I've learned of the cams... not firsthand info, and I may be wrong.)
Upgrade the springs with stock Type S or aftermarket performance springs, and you'll be able to safely rev. At least as far as the head is concerned. Your next concern, if you're taking the engine higher than it's designed to go, would be the bottom end. ARP rod bolts would be a good (and fairly inexpensive) addition to your bottom end, to add a bit of assurance that you won't spin a bearing (though you still may... it happens.)

[cb7k-9 unit]

The f20b even in auto form is pretty amazing. I was skeptical about it at first, but I'm happy with it

[deevergote]

The .2L difference between that and the H22 is fairly negligible. We like to think it matters, but really... it doesn't matter all that much. I've got an H22 with similar mods and a tune, and chances are my car feels much like yours. The F20B is pretty cool, and the slight lack of low-end torque compared to the H22 is made up by the slightly higher potential redline... so it's a fair tradeoff.

[cb7k-9 unit]

The springs are really all you'll need to upgrade to make use of the Type S cams. You'll essentially be converting your auto F20B to a manual F20B (based on what I've learned of the cams... not firsthand info, and I may be wrong.)
Upgrade the springs with stock Type S or aftermarket performance springs, and you'll be able to safely rev. At least as far as the head is concerned. Your next concern, if you're taking the engine higher than it's designed to go, would be the bottom end. ARP rod bolts would be a good (and fairly inexpensive) addition to your bottom end, to add a bit of assurance that you won't spin a bearing (though you still may... it happens.)

I will definitely look into those arp rod bolts. I actually was just looking into that the other day. Do you know of a good supplier for springs. I typically buy all my parts locally.

[deevergote]

Not offhand. It's not something I've done myself yet. Bisimoto has springs, but I'm sure there are plenty of other sources as well. Any local speed shop could probably get them for you, if local is the way you want to go.