Oil Pan Gasket Leak?

[Mishakol129]

Hey guys how it going.. I got some pictures of a worsening oil leak on the bottom of my engine. Check out these pics and let me know what you think it is. It seems like the oil pan gasket is now spraying oil, not seeping it like it was before. Its gotten a lot worse.



Here is the gasket. I think I tightened the bolts too much,





Gasket with oil on it,




I can see oil above the oil pan, this made me think it was the oil sender; however the evidence shows that oil is everywhere, as though it sprayed out from somewhere.

Check out the pics above the pan,




Even the oil sender has oil on it. Made me think it was leaking,



This is the pic which makes me thing that its spraying out of somewhere with a high rate of pressure. This is on the exhaust and it has oil all over it. Even the shifter cable has oil on it. It defies gravity the way its on there, only if it sprayed could it have gotten there.




The oil dripped down the center beam onto the floor.



So there it is. Am I right in saying its the oil pan gasket that is literally spraying oil out? It seems like it. But if that's the case, what steps should i take to fix it? I am open to suggestions.


Thanks,


Mikhail.

[Jarrett]

I don't know where you are regionally but it seems like this engine stuff is getting worse and worse for you. Can you not arrange for another member to come up and help you with a quality rebuild? It seems like you've been in over your head from day one.

[Mishakol129]

I don't know where you are regionally but it seems like this engine stuff is getting worse and worse for you. Can you not arrange for another member to come up and help you with a quality rebuild? It seems like you've been in over your head from day one.

I'm in VA, I don't think nobody here is out where i'm at though.

Its my first time so i'm bound to make some mistakes, the car runs good its just this oil leak.

[SOHC-FTW]

I don't know where you are regionally but it seems like this engine stuff is getting worse and worse for you. Can you not arrange for another member to come up and help you with a quality rebuild? It seems like you've been in over your head from day one.

^^This.

And that's entirely way way way to much gasket sealer. You're only suppose to use it on the sides (Pressure plate/Tq converter side and crank/oil pump side) and if needed a very thin coat on the edges of the pan. You used way to much sealer no wonder it's leaking.

[dj_ender]

Alright, this is enough. I've helped you a lot in your recent threads, sometimes against my better judgement, but I'm done. It's time to put your tools down and stop playing mechanic. Take your car in, to someone who knows what the fuck they are doing, and have them fix it. You won't listen to us, you do what you want, and then expect us to help you more. You never should have started this rebuild, period.

[Mishakol129]

^^This.

And that's entirely way way way to much gasket sealer. You're only suppose to use it on the sides (Pressure plate/Tq converter side and crank/oil pump side) and if needed a very thin coat on the edges of the pan. You used way to much sealer no wonder it's leaking.

Darn, that's the last time I listen to videos from Ebay about rebuilding honda motors.
The guy in the video glued the gasket to the pan and then used rtv all around the mating surface of the block. He didn't use that much though. I guess I used too much.


I found a HOW TO on how to replace it. He recommends using 3M spray adhesive to glue the gasket to the block. My only question is where do I apply the gasket, how much, and if the "grey' kind of RTV is the right kind, or does it even matter what color it is?.


I used one of those paper-like gaskets for the tq side and used rtv on top of it; I hope that doesn't blow out too.


But here are his instructions. You can add or take away from it if you like.

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...accords-10981/

"Oil pan gasket replacement 90-97 accords.

deserthonda
Super Moderator

tools needed,, 10mm, 12mm, 14 mm sockets, 17 mm wrench or socket, extensions,( short and long) rachet, braker bar, pan to drain oil ,wd-40 or equivalent . screwdriver, scraper,

supply needed :an gasket, ( use a Honda factory gasket part # 11251-POA-OOO ,,27-28 dollars, ), honda bond or equivalent , motor oil, drain plug gasket ( oil filter ) 3m spray adhesive

Raise the frt of car up, put jack stands, pull up on e-brake,
from undr the car use the 17 mm wrench or socket to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil ,,if oil is fairly new you can reuse it other wise install new oil and filter . Once oil has drained out, reistall new gasket on drain plug and reinstall drain plug , tighten it ,
spray wd-40 on the frt + rear frt exhaust pite nuts, let is soak in a little while , use the 14 mm socket, extension and pry bar, remove the frt and rear frt exhaust pipe nuts ( 6 total) , use the 12 mm socket and rachet and remove the lower braket nuts for the frt exhaust pipe to block , ( just behind the oil pan ) , remove the frt exh pipe you might have to pry on the bracket with the screwdriver ,

Use the 14 mm socket, exention and pry bar, remove the bolts for the frt/rear beam .

Use the 10mm socket, remove the bolts for the flywheel cover , if car is auto tranny you need to also remove the 3, 12 mm bolts for the tranny shifter cable cover

use the 10mm socket, extension and the rachet, remove all the bolts and nuts for the oil pan, Oil pan should drop down, in some cases you might have to pry a bit...


clean the oil pan real good, and the block surface , make sure that at the corners the little metal rings DO NOT stick up on the block if they do and you install the pan,, you will have an oil leak, so make sure the block surface is real clean,

once block surface and oil pan are clean and dried , using the 3m spray adhesive, spray some on the block ( do not overdue it) you want to spray just enough so gasket will stick in place .. and spray some on the side of the gasket that will go on the block, apply a little amount of honda bond to the curved edge of the pan gakset that will mate to the block and on the opposite side , the small flat side ,, stick the pan gakset on the block, make sure to line up all the holes properly,,

Once gasket is up, put a lite amount of honda bond on the curved side on the oil pan and on the small flat side ,,, install the oil pan,

make sure all the bolts and nuts are started before you start tighten them up. tightening sequence go from the middle to the outside criss cross frt and rear,, DO NOT overtighten the pan bolts and nuts ..once all tightened,, reinstall the rest of the items you removed , make sure all bolts and nuts are tight

TORQUE specs .for pan bolts+ nuts is 10 ft lbs,, if you have a torque wrench .

PERSONALLY I prefer to use the rachet + extension, i get more feel that way

after you add oil, start the engine up , let it run and make sure that there is no leak .


P..S..

someties the old pan gaskets bakes to the pan, it gets hard and it is a real, real, real PITA to scrape off,, the best way to get it off is to heat it up , this softens the gasket and it comes off easy,, use a little propane torch , heat the underside of the pan where the gasket is, where bolts holes are, this softens the gasket and peels right off ,,make sure not to grab the heated gasket trying to remove it with your hand , it will burn,, just use some pliers"

[Mishakol129]

Alright, this is enough. I've helped you a lot in your recent threads, sometimes against my better judgement, but I'm done. It's time to put your tools down and stop playing mechanic. Take your car in, to someone who knows what the fuck they are doing, and have them fix it. You won't listen to us, you do what you want, and then expect us to help you more. You never should have started this rebuild, period.

I can't just take my car in, that would be financial suicide.


I'm all ears and I do listen to what you have to say. Why would I ever ask if I didn't want to hear your suggestions?

[SOHC-FTW]

"Apply a little amount of honda bond to the curved edge of the pan gakset that will mate to the block and on the opposite side , the small flat side stick the pan gakset on the block"

You didn't read to carefully, it's more or less what i told you. Please if you're going to question things and post a link read it thoroughly. Just goes back to me and others giving you correct advice and you not listening to that either.

Grey or black is fine either way you shouldn't use more than a few finger tip gloobs on a oil pan gasket install.

[Mishakol129]

"Apply a little amount of honda bond to the curved edge of the pan gakset that will mate to the block and on the opposite side , the small flat side stick the pan gakset on the block"

You didn't read to carefully, it's more or less what i told you. Please if you're going to question things and post a link read it thoroughly. Just goes back to me and others giving you correct advice and you not listening to that either.

Grey or black is fine either way you shouldn't use more than a few finger tip gloobs on a oil pan gasket install.

Its kind of hard to understand what he means, I wanted to be sure. Got it


Sooo, is clear rtv bad for oil resistance or good?

[SOHC-FTW]

Is there a curve on the front and back edge? NO only on the pressure plate/Tq converter side and the opposite of that would be? The oil pump/crank pulley side.

And you just asked about grey and i said grey or black is fine.

[ferenza]

Darn, that's the last time I listen to videos from Ebay about rebuilding honda motors.
The guy in the video glued the gasket to the pan and then used rtv all around the mating surface of the block. He didn't use that much though. I guess I used too much.


I found a HOW TO on how to replace it. He recommends using 3M spray adhesive to glue the gasket to the block. My only question is where do I apply the gasket, how much, and if the "grey' kind of RTV is the right kind, or does it even matter what color it is?.


I used one of those paper-like gaskets for the tq side and used rtv on top of it; I hope that doesn't blow out too.

You used way too much rtv.Actually, you are not suppose to use rtv or silicone on rubber gaskets.The oil pan gasket you put on was probably over tightened and the rtv didnt have enough time to set and caused it to slip out and tear from the pressure inside.When you redo your gasket again , scrape all the rtv off and just put thin finger sized spots around the pan lip (not on the whole surface) and the place the gasket.this will set the gasket in place and keep it there.Tighten the bolts to when you feel a little resistance , if the gasket starts squishing its too tight .Ive done this job three times already

[oyajicool]

The service manual says to use sealant on ONLY two locations for oil pan and gasket installation.

[4U2H8ME]

After having my own recent oil leak problems and seeing the pics you provided, I'm inclined to say that your oil pressure switch is leaking. The reason I would go that route is that 1 you don't have an oil cooler, 2 the oil seems to be coming from around the oil filter area and the switch is just above it.
did you replace that switch when you did your rebuild or resuse the original one?
If you really want to be sure, Lift the front of the car, clean everything off of the back with brake cleaner. Spray it as high up as you can to get every bit of oil off. with the car in the air run the engine and wait. If the leak is really bad it should be visible after 15-20 minutes if not imediatley.

[10thAnnivCB7]

Just in time for my oil pan to get put in. Bookmarked.

[Mishakol129]

Is there a curve on the front and back edge? NO only on the pressure plate/Tq converter side and the opposite of that would be? The oil pump/crank pulley side.

And you just asked about grey and i said grey or black is fine.

So wait, you mean to put silicone on the 4 corners of the pan (where it curves)?

oh and I was asking about the pressure plate side and how I used one of those paper gaskets and then used more clear silicone on it. I want to know if those tend to leak as well. Do they? The main seal is fine its just the plate i'm thinking about.


I used clear silicone on the pan and the pressure plate.


The manual I think says to apply silicone to the bolt threads of the oil pan (which I did).