About my very first rebuild

[dj_ender]

How do I remove the speedometer cluster?

One person on another forum said,

Actually, a quick test for the VSS or the wiring is, does your trip meter work? If it does, your speedo is bad. If not, it's wiring/VSS.

[Mishakol129]

Actually, a quick test for the VSS or the wiring is, does your trip meter work? If it does, your speedo is bad. If not, it's wiring/VSS.

The tripometer works, everything else underneath basically works. The only thing that is a little iffy is the fuel gauge. I just need to replace the meter for it.

[dj_ender]

How do I remove the speedometer cluster?

One person on another forum said,




What is DTC?


Thank you, the test drive was great (except I didn't know how fast I was going and had bad brakes). And how should you drive a rebuild (bottom end) engine, baby it or just drive it fast and sometimes slow?

Gonna have to make a video of me driving and post it soon as I fix the problems. Its loud with the exhaust and even resonates in the rear as though it were in the car.

There are many theories/beliefs about breaking in a motor. The one I use is to get on a LONG highway/freeway, be in third gear, start at 30, floor it to 50, let off the throttle and stay in gear, when it gets back to 30 , punch it to 50. Repeat for a total of 20 cycles. Like I said, there are other ways, this is just what i do. Regardless of what method you use, do not keep constant pressure on the rings.

The tripometer works, everything else underneath basically works. The only thing that is a little iffy is the fuel gauge. I just need to replace the meter for it.

Then I would say you speedo is bad.

As for removing the cluster, this will get you started, I'm too lazy to type it out;

1. Remove the coin box.
2. Pry the cruise control master switch/sunroof switch assembly, if equipped, from the dashboard and unplug the elec. connectors.
3. Pry the intrument panel brightness controller, the hazard warning switch and the rear window defogger switch out of the dashboard and unplug their elec. connectors.
4. Remove the ashtray and ashtray holder. The holder is attached to the underside of the pocket below the stereo by three screws
5. Remove the console
6. Remove the stereo
7. Remove the center and side air vents
8. Remove all 12 Retaining screws (Positions below)

Behind left air vent.
Back of the recess for the coin box.
Cavity for the cruise control switch.
Above the instrument cluster.
In the cavity for the instrument cluster brightness control.
In the roof of the cavity for the center air vents.
Below the heater/air con. controls.
In the back of the ashtray cavity.
Next to the cig. lighter.

9. Pull out the instrument cluster trim panel, unplug the elec. connectors and remove the trim panel.
10. Installation is the reverse.
11. Go out and buy a haynes workshop manual.

[Mishakol129]

There are many theories/beliefs about breaking in a motor. The one I use is to get on a LONG highway/freeway, be in third gear, start at 30, floor it to 50, let off the throttle and stay in gear, when it gets back to 30 , punch it to 50. Repeat for a total of 20 cycles. Like I said, there are other ways, this is just what i do. Regardless of what method you use, do not keep constant pressure on the rings.



Then I would say you speedo is bad.

As for removing the cluster, this will get you started, I'm too lazy to type it out;

I just took it for another test drive and found out that the odometer and the tripometer doesn't work anymore.


I didn't test the cruise control but I did see if the light came on (which it did).

[Mishakol129]

Actually, a quick test for the VSS or the wiring is, does your trip meter work? If it does, your speedo is bad. If not, it's wiring/VSS.

No, my tripometer doesn't work and neither does my odometer.

There maybe a short in the wiring harness, I hear a loud buzzing sound in the engine bay when I have the car in the "on" position, I have no idea what it is. Maybe it has to do with my problem.

If not then its the cluster gauge; however I don't want to just 'throw' this part at it, that would not be prudent.

The VSS cannot be bad, I just connected a VSS I got from 1Aauto on Ebay a month ago and it still gives me the same codes.

I'm a newb when it comes to wiring and circuitry.

I may have to post a whole thread about this problem if I don't figure this out soon.

[Mishakol129]

The problem is fixed (thank God). Here are some videos of my car. The first is of it with the exhaust and the 2nd is me pulling 30 to 60 at 3/4 throttle.

[SOHC-FTW]

You're going to want to crank that sucker up to 5500 in second (Lock it in D2) and let the engine back itself off in second gear all the way down to about 1500rpms. Not let the transmission shift up that will do it little good. Do this process throughout your first and second break in period (#1-150 miles change oil #2-500 miles), don't beat on it just let the engine do the work 3/4 throttle at max to carry it to 5500 then let the engine back itself down don't forget to lock it into second while doing so.

Like i told DJ on his rebuild thread long ago everyones got a different way of breaking in a engine some beat on it from the start, some take the easy poke along way, i like to do a bit of both as my driving is a mixture of both.

[dj_ender]

glad it's working now.

[Mishakol129]

You're going to want to crank that sucker up to 5500 in second (Lock it in D2) and let the engine back itself off in second gear all the way down to about 1500rpms. Not let the transmission shift up that will do it little good. Do this process throughout your first and second break in period (#1-150 miles change oil #2-500 miles), don't beat on it just let the engine do the work 3/4 throttle at max to carry it to 5500 then let the engine back itself down don't forget to lock it into second while doing so.

Like i told DJ on his rebuild thread long ago everyones got a different way of breaking in a engine some beat on it from the start, some take the easy poke along way, i like to do a bit of both as my driving is a mixture of both.

Do I really have to change the oil at 150 miles? I didn't use any grease just STP oil treatment.


Yeah, that's kind of what i've been doing; beating it a little bit and then going easy on it.


I think its more a matter of opinion; for instance you don't read in the factory service manuals that you MUST drive the car a certain way after installing new rings. The manual tells you everything about replacing old rings with new one's, I think it would definitely tell you it you needed to be careful about how you seated them.

Correct me if i'm wrong (and give me proof), but I have never heard any engine company or reputable mechanic give special instructions about how to seat piston rings. Mainly its all people's opinions.

[dj_ender]

Do I really have to change the oil at 150 miles? I didn't use any grease just STP oil treatment.


Yeah, that's kind of what i've been doing; beating it a little bit and then going easy on it.


I think its more a matter of opinion; for instance you don't read in the factory service manuals that you MUST drive the car a certain way after installing new rings. The manual tells you everything about replacing old rings with new one's, I think it would definitely tell you it you needed to be careful about how you seated them.

I mean, I just have never heard any engine company or reputable mechanic give special instructions about how to seat piston rings. Mainly its all people's opinions.

Not sure where or what you have been reading, but there IS a break in period, during that time the rings will "seat" in the cylinders. Fuck up the rings during that break in period, they will never seal right.

[SOHC-FTW]

Yes you need to do oil intervals.

And you haven't talked to many people then as they all have a different opinion but they are all loosely based on easy/ medium/ hard break in's. I've rebuilt around 7 honda engines so far anything from a stock rebuild to built and i've done them all abit differently, but in the medium category.

[esskater892]

nice rebuild man. the bay looks nice, not my style really but its good. and GL with break in. im working on rebuilding an f22 as well, ive got forged rods and 11:1 compression pistons. and some head work. but congrats on your rebuild man seems like you got it running nice!

[dj_ender]

The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration.

Which is what I explained.

[Mishakol129]

Which is what I explained.

OKay, i got it. This site seems to say something like that, http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I got a simple question. I forgot to "pack" my oil pump with grease or lubricant for the first start up, was that bad?

[dj_ender]

OKay, i got it. This site seems to say something like that, http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I got a simple question. I forgot to "pack" my oil pump with grease or lubricant for the first start up, was that bad?

I quoted that from that article.

On my rebuild, I didn't pack the pump, and my pump is working fine. I think it's just added insurance for the initial start up so there's oil in the pump when it starts up and that there's oil pumping immediately.