About my very first rebuild

[Mishakol129]

Are you using a radiator funnel? Like so:



It locks into the radiator opening and allows the system to kind of be put under pressure.

I was using something like that last time, it was duct tape though.

[dj_ender]

I was using something like that last time, it was duct tape though.

That would probably be why its no very forceful.

[Quashish]

"Its gunna be ffffffffffffffffffffuuun" haha

[eightyfour84]

You've already checked/serviced the FITV?

[SOHC-FTW]

I can only hope and pray he gets the idea of adjusting valves.

[Mishakol129]

You've already checked/serviced the FITV?

Yeah, I cleaned it last and just tonite made sure its tightened.

I bled the coolant but it didn't fix it.


I just took it out for a test drive and man is that exhaust loud. The S light and the CEL came on, both for a VSS. That is very strange because it was doing that with my last transmission and my new transmission has a totally different VSS. What could that mean? Is there a short in the wiring harness there? The S light code is a "4" and says,

4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.

The CEL is a "17" and says,

17 VSS - speed sensor

Before the rebuild I had this problem but now its seems to be exacerbated. Its a completely different transmission with a completely different VSS.



After I took it for a drive I checked the ATF and there was none on the stick. I guess its cause it was hot that it read less, it was topped off before I ran it. Hope I didn't damage anything.

My brakes are very very spongy though, I can literally stomp them to the floor easily. I heard something like the brake booster could cause that but i'm not sure.



It would help to get some pointers on all these things I mentioned. To round it up these are the problems:

-Code 4 on the S light.

- Irratic idle (it jumps from 9k to about 1.2k rpm's very quickly and then goes back down).

- Super spongy brakes

- Running the AT with no fluid on the dippy (I only ran it for less than 5 minutes).

[dj_ender]

Yeah, I cleaned it last and just tonite made sure its tightened.

I bled the coolant but it didn't fix it.


I just took it out for a test drive and man is that exhaust loud. The S light and the CEL came on, both for a VSS. That is very strange because it was doing that with my last transmission and my new transmission has a totally different VSS. What could that mean? Is there a short in the wiring harness there? The S light code is a "4" and says,

4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.

The CEL is a "17" and says,

17 VSS - speed sensor


After I took it for a drive I checked the ATF and there was none on the stick. I guess its cause it was hot that it read less, it was topped off before I ran it.

My brakes are very very spongy though, I can literally stomp them to the floor easily. I heard something like the brake booster could cause that but i'm not sure.



It would help to get some pointers on all these things I mentioned...

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you cleaned/tested the IACV?

And you should check the level when it's hot, if it's low, fill it.

You need to bleed your brakes, if they are bled properly, check for a vacuum leak around the brake booster.

I'm not sure if the low fluid would cause those CELs, but maybe it could. If it's throwing codes with the new tranny, your either a very unlucky person, out you have a harness problem, or the vss connector is bad.

[Mishakol129]

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you cleaned/tested the IACV?

I did a quick visual of the vaccuums before i started the car, maybe I didn't look goo enough though.
The IACV was cleaned and it was tested.

And you should check the level when it's hot, if it's low, fill it.

Gotcha, however I do not have anymore honda fluids, had to mix it with valvoline. I'm not worried though.

You need to bleed your brakes, if they are bled properly, check for a vacuum leak around the brake booster.

Okay, I will bleed the brakes tomorrow.

I'm not sure if the low fluid would cause those CELs, but maybe it could. If it's throwing codes with the new tranny, your either a very unlucky person, out you have a harness problem, or the vss connector is bad.

No, low fluids didn't cause the CELs, i'm pretty sure. Its NOT the new tranns, I can bet my life on it. The car was pulling the exact same code even before I installed the new tranns. The speedometer needle didn't move AT ALL when I test drove it, the same thing that was happening before the rebuild.

If its a harness problem then how can I fix it? It can't have anything to do with the new transmission, nothing whatsoever.

If the connection on the wiring harness is bad then how can I fix it?

[dj_ender]

I did a quick visual of the vaccuums before i started the car, maybe I didn't look goo enough though.
The IACV was cleaned and it was tested.

If the connection on the wiring harness is bad then how can I fix it?

To test for a vacuum leak associated with the intake, block off the throttle body, with your hand or something that can FULLY seal the opening. Try and start the car, if it starts, you have a vacuum leak. If it doesn't, we can look elsewhere.

As far as the VSS is concerned, there's a break somewhere between the VSS connector and the ECU. Whether that's at the connector it somewhere else, that's for you to find. You could inspect the plug, it might be dirty, a pin might be pushed out, who knows, you gotta look.

[Mishakol129]

This page says,

"The first step is to check the connection for any deformation, corrosion or other visible signs of connection damage to the harness and/or the connector. Unplug the connector and look for corrosions or some type of crud. Scrape it then clean it then plug it back in after putting some electrical grease on the terminal to prevent any further problems. The next step is to jack up the car and take voltage readings (5V) pulses at the connector when the front wheel is turn by hand. You can do this after removing the the VSS and spin the drive link on the VSS by hand. This will eliminate any problems with the drive gears (where the VSS sits on.) If no pulses are found, confirm input voltages then inspect the inside of the VSS. Here's how to do this."

http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

[dj_ender]

I just watched your video, those are definitely loose valves.

What did you do to the car when the issue went off? Did you mess with the idle screw?

Did you ever set base ignition timing and base idle?

[Mishakol129]

I just watched your video, those are definitely loose valves.

What did you do to the car when the issue went off? Did you mess with the idle screw?

Did you ever set base ignition timing and base idle?

The idle issue turned out to be an unplugged vacuum line. It was to the rear motor mount going into the intake mani.


I adjusted the valves. The engine runs real good now, super smooth and quiet.


My main problems now are the brakes and the speed sensor. The speed sensor is the most bothersome one. I did check the connection but it seemed fine, i put some white lithium grease in there too. If you read this page, it seems to be saying that the actual gauge can be malfuntioning. Check it out and see for yourself. I am an amateur, you will understand this better than I can:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

That link is exactly what I need to understand but I am having a hard time understanding the part where it says the gauge can be malfunctioning. However if my harness connection is bad, how can I replace it?

[Mishakol129]

Here it is, working great,




Not having a working speedometer is not good at all. Gonna definitely need to fix that soon.

[dj_ender]

The idle issue turned out to be an unplugged vacuum line. It was to the rear motor mount going into the intake mani.


I adjusted the valves. The engine runs real good now, super smooth and quiet.


My main problems now are the brakes and the speed sensor. The speed sensor is the most bothersome one. I did check the connection but it seemed fine, i put some white lithium grease in there too. If you read this page, it seems to be saying that the actual gauge can be malfuntioning. Check it out and see for yourself. I am an amateur, you will understand this better than I can:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

That link is exactly what I need to understand but I am having a hard time understanding the part where it says the gauge can be malfunctioning. However if my harness connection is bad, how can I replace it?

Have you tested the speedo like the link suggests? I was thinking this early on, but I don't know if a faulty speedo will throw a CEL. You COULD remove the cluster and make sure the plugs are securely plugged in. Are you having any other cluster issues, or any other issues?

Good job on getting the car running right. jtu:

[Mishakol129]

Have you tested the speedo like the link suggests? I was thinking this early on, but I don't know if a faulty speedo will throw a CEL. You COULD remove the cluster and make sure the plugs are securely plugged in. Are you having any other cluster issues, or any other issues?

Good job on getting the car running right. jtu:

How do I remove the speedometer cluster?

One person on another forum said,

"If there is no DTC, the cruise control works, and other gauges work, then it is the speedo head.

So check if the cruise control works."

What is DTC?


Thank you, the test drive was great (except I didn't know how fast I was going and had bad brakes). And how should you drive a rebuild (bottom end) engine, baby it or just drive it fast and sometimes slow?

Gonna have to make a video of me driving and post it soon as I fix the problems. Its loud with the exhaust and even resonates in the rear as though it were in the car.