Aftermarket Header Studs.

[Straight Success]

Damn, thanks Kai. I wasn't even aware of this.

I ran into another problem while removing the studs. One of them sheared off every thread into the header. It was as smooth as a pop-sickle. Then I just said f' it. I went to Lowes and picked up a few 3/8" 16 1-1/2 bolts as I already had two sitting around. I drove all over trying to find a 3/8" 16 tap, and eventually found one. I'm going to drill out and tap the holes, screw the bolt in from the top, and secure it on the DP side with a nut and washer. The nuts and bolts are stainless, so I don't anticipate any more major problems down the line.

Also, I'm not sure as to why the studs stripped out like they did. I put them in straight and true. Maybe from the heat causing deformation.

[GunRunner]

i'm pretty sure I've had about 3 no name headers off ebay. Every single one has leaked where the manifold connects to the dp.

[Losiracer2]

Damn, thanks Kai. I wasn't even aware of this.

I ran into another problem while removing the studs. One of them sheared off every thread into the header. It was as smooth as a pop-sickle. Then I just said f' it. I went to Lowes and picked up a few 3/8" 16 1-1/2 bolts as I already had two sitting around. I drove all over trying to find a 3/8" 16 tap, and eventually found one. I'm going to drill out and tap the holes, screw the bolt in from the top, and secure it on the DP side with a nut and washer. The nuts and bolts are stainless, so I don't anticipate any more major problems down the line.

Also, I'm not sure as to why the studs stripped out like they did. I put them in straight and true. Maybe from the heat causing deformation.

My GReddy header just uses bolts with lock washers and nuts, no studs or whatever and it doesn't leak. Maybe you should just drill out the tapped holes to make them through holes and put long bolts w/ the same setup I've got? Its a lot easier than what you're doing.

[Straight Success]

My GReddy header just uses bolts with lock washers and nuts, no studs or whatever and it doesn't leak. Maybe you should just drill out the tapped holes to make them through holes and put long bolts w/ the same setup I've got? Its a lot easier than what you're doing.

I was thinking about that. I told myself that I would try that if the tap situation doesn't work. I just don't want to try tightening the nut, and the bold at the top keeps spinning. I have no way of locking the bolt in place. That's why I want to tap the header.

[Straight Success]

Ran into another problem, but will fix it for tomorrow's installation. Only two of the holes allow for bolt passage. There's one hole which is too close to cylinder 1 exhaust pipe and the bolt shank/body can't go into the hole straight. What I'm planning on doing is enlarge the hole and use a 7/16" tap. Then I'll slap in a 7/16"-16-1" bolt and screw it in from the DP side with a locking washer. Here's a picture or two for reference.