rotor over hub conversion

[tootall]

I was looking at TAS auto and was wondering about installing those, say i bought them, would i have to take the whole hub off and have the bearings pressed out and rotors taken off to install them, i know i do, just wondering if its worth the money cause i hate having to take the whole hub off and balljoints which are usually a bitch to pop off just to get my rotor off, just dont know if its worth the 350.00 or not, would be nice, but would have to take them and have someone press them out before i could even put them on, sorry, stupiod question, just cant think. lol tyhanks, just throw some input for people who have changed these over....

[tootall]

sorry guys, just found a good thread on installation pics and right up, but for u guys who have them, are they worth the money, i guess they are if you take your rotors and shit off enough, lol

[toycar]

If you POP the knuckle off the axle, you can tap the hub and bearing out from the tranny side of the knuckle. From there, you rotate the rotor and slip it off over the bearing.

Hub/bearing stay sealed together. So in short, no changing the rotor does not have to equate to seperating the hub and bearing.

Thr bearing bolts onto the knuckle, its not pressed on. It really only takes a couple shacks to get the knuckle to seperate from the bearing. Thr bearing and hub are pressed together with thr rotor trapped in thr middle, but there's knotches all around the rotor to slip over the bearing. I don't really think hub over rotor is that big of a deal. Takes me 1/2 hour per side for a rotor.

[buzz11]

ROH(rotor over hub), is mainly a preventative maintenance I think. Its great in the future for when you have to replace your rotors and not worrying about the hub. Kind of like a long term investment lol.

[MortsAccord]

I have ROH conversion for my cd5.

If your planning on future upgrades with brakes, keeping this car a long time, or ever driving it hard ... say at a race track. Then you should buy the conversion.


You still have to pull the a arms off to get the rotors off, which is a pita. Id hate to have to remove the axle just to change a rotor. Putting cotter pins back in and restaking the axle nut aren't my idea of a good time.

Other thoughts: new bearings are nice and you must have ROH conversion to do the 93-96 Prelude VTEC brake upgrade. Which is probably one of the better brake choices if you don't hardcore track your car, a slightly larger rotor for that extra bite, along with just a small amount of weight increase to take in a little more heat.

If its a beater car, fugh it, if its your baby save for ROH.

[toycar]

See and I feel the opposite. For ROH your going to spend a few hundred bux for basically no reason.

Sure, you can go 5 lug at the same time and get a slightly larger rotor surface. 2 piston calipers are better than 1 if they are set up correctly.

How well do your brakes do the job now though? With quality rotors and pads you shouldn't really have any issues slowing down.

I dont really think its worth it unless your doing auto-x in the car.

Changing the rotor is pretty simple. Its really not that hard to whack the old spindle nut with a slege to work the axle free from the knuckle.

The bearing taps out once its unbolted with nearly 0 effort.

Lower ball joint is held on by 1 nut/cotter pind. Same for the tie rod and upper ball joint. Unstaking the axle nut is about a 30 second process, and honestly my impact rips the nut off without unstaking it. The "staked" part just breaks off.




I dunno, I just dont understand what all the fuss is about.

5 lug swaps are cool, but then you have to get new wheels and probably tires. ROH is basically to avoid doing a tiny bit of extra work, so basically it is an expensive mod to avoid about 20 minutes/side of future work, once every what 2+ yrs?

Larger rotors/calipers and the "mod" have created chamber issues and other various bullshit with all the different combinations of parts people have come up with. Ive read about everything from caliper clearing the wheel to chamber/toe issues. Sure this shit can all be corrected, but it all costs money.

To me, whats the big deal? Keep it OEM unless its no longer safe to drive because of the way you are driving it. Its not like the car had a problem stopping for the last 20-22 years.

For the total cost of ROH you could easily replace the Tie rods(inner and outer), wheel bearings, ball joints, rotors, pads and upper and lower control arms too. And you would be using quality parts to. Shit if you were trying to convert all 4 to ROH you could easily squeeze in the rear control arms, and a complete bushing kit.


What do you think is going to make your car feel and drive better, dollar for dollar?

[deevergote]

If you plan on keeping your car for many many years, or you'll be doing a considerable amount of racing that will chew through rotors regularly (race pads will do this), then ROH makes life easier. If your car is just a daily driver that will see occasional spirited driving or 1/4 mile action, a quality set of rotors and sport pads should last a good long while. It would take many years for the ROH setup to pay for itself in terms of ease and convenience.

[MortsAccord]

See and I feel the opposite. For ROH your going to spend a few hundred bux for basically no reason.

Sure, you can go 5 lug at the same time and get a slightly larger rotor surface. 2 piston calipers are better than 1 if they are set up correctly.

How well do your brakes do the job now though? With quality rotors and pads you shouldn't really have any issues slowing down.

I dont really think its worth it unless your doing auto-x in the car.

Changing the rotor is pretty simple. Its really not that hard to whack the old spindle nut with a slege to work the axle free from the knuckle.

The bearing taps out once its unbolted with nearly 0 effort.

Lower ball joint is held on by 1 nut/cotter pind. Same for the tie rod and upper ball joint. Unstaking the axle nut is about a 30 second process, and honestly my impact rips the nut off without unstaking it. The "staked" part just breaks off.




I dunno, I just dont understand what all the fuss is about.

5 lug swaps are cool, but then you have to get new wheels and probably tires. ROH is basically to avoid doing a tiny bit of extra work, so basically it is an expensive mod to avoid about 20 minutes/side of future work, once every what 2+ yrs?

Larger rotors/calipers and the "mod" have created chamber issues and other various bullshit with all the different combinations of parts people have come up with. Ive read about everything from caliper clearing the wheel to chamber/toe issues. Sure this shit can all be corrected, but it all costs money.

To me, whats the big deal? Keep it OEM unless its no longer safe to drive because of the way you are driving it. Its not like the car had a problem stopping for the last 20-22 years.

For the total cost of ROH you could easily replace the Tie rods(inner and outer), wheel bearings, ball joints, rotors, pads and upper and lower control arms too. And you would be using quality parts to. Shit if you were trying to convert all 4 to ROH you could easily squeeze in the rear control arms, and a complete bushing kit.


What do you think is going to make your car feel and drive better, dollar for dollar?

Rotors and calipers don't cause camber issues. Stupid drops do, with extreme width wheels. If someone doesn't drive their car to a junkyard for a test fit at the very least or talk to someone who personally has done the mod then they"re idiots.

The rear is already rotor over hub on ex models. DX, LX, and special editions have drums. An alternative is to find a junkyard 99 Acura cl and take the whole unit, hub, caliper etc. While its there you can change anything needed before bolting it in.

[toycar]

Rotors and calipers don't cause camber issues. Stupid drops do, with extreme width wheels. If someone doesn't drive their car to a junkyard for a test fit at the very least or talk to someone who personally has done the mod then they"re idiots.

The rear is already rotor over hub on ex models. DX, LX, and special editions have drums. An alternative is to find a junkyard 99 Acura cl and take the whole unit, hub, caliper etc. While its there you can change anything needed before bolting it in.

You would have to read up on all the different conversion threads, but yes you can create chamber issues by using certain knuckles. I don't remember off he top of my head, but it is documented several times.

Even if there wasn't an issue, I don't see what the big deal is. It's cake to do this with the right tools. I know that there is more then one way to convert, I'm positive about the chamber issue. Also positive about the caliper clearing the wheel issue. Those are both real issues people have run into. I'm sure you can do this without any issues too, there's a lot of options for converting available.

Some people probably just don't have the right tools, to do this the easy way(Rotors) and the hassle they experience influences them to think this swap is the answer. If that's the case, in my opinion I think thr money is better spent on the right tools vs roh swap.

Roh conversion just seems silly for the money spent vs time saved when you think about how far that money could go if you just live with the hor setup.


Maybe its just me, who knows.


I can promise you this much, it doesn't make your car any faster and it doesn't look any nicer and unless you go with bigger Rotors and 2 piston calipers, there's no performance gain at all.

To me, that discounts 80-90% of people doing this. Then there's the 5% of people that swap used parts in just to be able to say they converted to roh.


Just seems like a lot of silly, for basically no reason if you ask me.

[MortsAccord]

I've never ever read about a camber issue created by knuckle/rotor/spindle modification.

Id love to convert to 5lug, but the cost of converting isn't my holdback. Its my traklites, as they are 4x114.3 id have to source new ones. Maybe one day after everything is said and done id convert. For the most part 5 lugs come from preludes, the only issue that I've seen with it is the hubs/spindles in the rear don't line up right, they are a bit tall and don't allow the nut that holds the spindle on very much grab.

This could set the rear wheels out a slight bit more over stock, and possibly increase the affect of camber, but it.wont create it in itself. If there was a problem created by knuckle/rotor/spindle mod then someone did damage somewhere or did something very wrong.

Needing a pickle fork to change rotors crosses a line for me. Let alone separating suspension components that could get torn by a pickle fork when they don't want to separate nicely due to rust/age. Its not that much when you consider your replacing old bearings, making your future rotor changes easier and allowing a flexible upgrade to brake components in the future.

If he doesn't go ROH I would suggest going to v6 caliper brackets and rotors, so the chance of the rotor getting hot enough to warp is greatly reduced so changing them again will most likely never be needed again.