BMC on its way out?

[deevergote]

I'm in Jersey, about 10 minutes from Camden.

[dhill_cb7]

Deev that is very close to where i am roughly a 20-30 mins drive at most. If you ever need a hand working on your car or whatever it is a close enough drive.

Just Finished replacing my BMC and the pedal isn't as firm as i wanted but then again the brakes do need to be changed. I took it out for a test drive and i can't complain (the pedal is not going down to the floor anymore).

Thanks again for all the help, much appreciated.

[kdh1]

Something some people should know is that if your bleeding the brakes on a vehicle thats older like ours, you should put a small piece of 2x4 so you dont push the peddle all the way to the floor because the piston inside the MC will bust the seal with gunk thats not used to being pushed past a certain point. That is only when your bleeding your older BMC. I've seen it happen alot. Its awesome you saved a bunch of maoney and got some good experiece. To try and get the pedal stiffer it wont hurt to bleed the rest of the system. You might have to do it a couple times.

[deevergote]

He has installed a new BMC, though.

[batever]

Brake master cylinder is bone simple. Use a 6 inch flex/spring extension or 6 inch regular extension and a universal wobble joint and a 12or 13m socket for the 3 mounting bolts once you've broken them free using a regular wrench, and to spin the nuts on the mounting studs when putting the new one on (of course, use a normal wrench for final tightening). If you do that, you will have the old one off in 5 minutes. Then put the new one on the car (don't bother bench bleeding *off of the car*, obviously it needs to be bled, but you can do it on the car after initial mounting against the firewall as long as you make sure the BMC is level when you start--easily effected using a jack on the rear of the vehicle) and bleed it on the vehicle using a $10 one man bleeder kit.

Now reattach the brake lines (use a (10mm?) flare nut wrench on the fittings, do not use a normal wrench!) and bleed the brakes at all four wheels starting in the rear. Right rear, left front , left rear, right front.

use length of 2x4 against your driver's seat(slide the seat forward to press and hold your brake pedal down) while you are working at the wheels with your one man bleeder bottle. YOu don't even need a second person doing it this way.

It will take you and hour, maybe an hour and a half. I've done it twice and it would take me 45 minutes it think at this point, start to finish.

[batever]

Deev that is very close to where i am roughly a 20-30 mins drive at most. If you ever need a hand working on your car or whatever it is a close enough drive.

Just Finished replacing my BMC and the pedal isn't as firm as i wanted but then again the brakes do need to be changed. I took it out for a test drive and i can't complain (the pedal is not going down to the floor anymore).

Thanks again for all the help, much appreciated.

yeah, if your pads are worn your pedal will have to travel a lot and you won't get the same firm feel as with new pads.

[batever]

Something some people should know is that if your bleeding the brakes on a vehicle thats older like ours, you should put a small piece of 2x4 so you dont push the peddle all the way to the floor because the piston inside the MC will bust the seal with gunk thats not used to being pushed past a certain point. That is only when your bleeding your older BMC. I've seen it happen alot. Its awesome you saved a bunch of maoney and got some good experiece. To try and get the pedal stiffer it wont hurt to bleed the rest of the system. You might have to do it a couple times.

this is a good tip, never thought of that. come to think of it I don't think i fully understand what you are saying but thanks for pointing it out, something to think about.

[JohnD1079]

does anyone want to explain what bench bleeding is? i have to replace mine soon.

[batever]

does anyone want to explain what bench bleeding is? i have to replace mine soon.

"bench bleeding" is the process of filling the new BMC with brake fluid and bleeding any air out of it before attaching it to any brake hydraulic lines, typically done off the car.


It should be done with the BMC level. However, that's easy to accomplish on the car by just jacking the rear of the car up a little if necessary--which is why I say "don't bother doing it off the car on a bench, just do it once you've bolted the master cylinder onto the firewall, and then level it and"bench" bleed it before attaching the brake hydraulic lines.

After this is done, you then bleed all of the brake hydraulic lines in the appropriate sequence at each wheel, then you are done.