Bisi Header Issues

[GhostAccord]

You guys could try using a layer or 2 of Teflon tape on the inside pipe. They suggest the PTFE type as it has the highest melting point @ 620°F. Bike guys around my area wrap their slip fit exhausts to seal leaks all the time. Not sure If the collector of these headers gets hotter than 620°F or not though...... worth a try if they don't. Or send it back to Bisi for a possible fix. However if they are known to leak a bit, I doubt they will come back any better.

[19dabeast85]

Just curious as to how you know they aren't burns collectors?

I've looked at alot of burns collectors online and they are more symmetrical than what my header has. And theirs don't leak out of the center welds. If this was a full race car I wouldn't care about leaks. Since it is a dd and the header was designed for a dd (clears A/C, P/S, etc...) I'm going to have to figure something out to eliminate exhaust from entering the cabin, it's so bad I get a headache occasionally.

You guys could try using a layer or 2 of Teflon tape on the inside pipe. They suggest the PTFE type as it has the highest melting point @ 620°F. Bike guys around my area wrap their slip fit exhausts to seal leaks all the time. Not sure If the collector of these headers gets hotter than 620°F or not though...... worth a try if they don't. Or send it back to Bisi for a possible fix. However if they are known to leak a bit, I doubt they will come back any better.

That sounds like a bad idea. If I am correct, gasoline EGTs can approach 1,200*F.

[Cb_JoeyG]

So ive noticed the leak seems to be getting slightly louder.. I think im going to have to dig into this in the next few days. I am starting to notic the lack of low end power and the idle seems slightly affected.

What ive decided to do as a first attempt with nothing permanantly modified is to use some Extreme High Temp Brake parts lubricant around the primary pipes and the inside of the collector to see if it was just lack of lubrication that may have caused the pipes not to seat properly.. I really cant afford to send this header back both with shipping costs and the fact that i have my exhaust modded specificaly to work with this header

[GhostAccord]

1,350°F is usual for a boosted app at full boost so 1,200°F is probably a high estimate. I am merely suggesting things for those who have spent $800 on leaking exhaust headers. My $250 headers never leaked......

I'm glad you mentioned that the EGTs are much higher than 700°F, I must have been sleeping when I posted that. Do Not use Teflon! Thanks

[Cb_JoeyG]

Got this fixed today.. My exhaust guy put a bead of silicone around each of the pipes.. No leakys n-e-mo!

On a side note.. Had him also remoce the flange considering it was catching on speedbumps and gravel.. So Its been removed and a flexpipe is being utilized instead

[wed3k]

flexpipe will save your header. i just removed my cat in lieu of a flex pipe.

[Cb_JoeyG]

well yea and i had the flange removed. so the header is welded to the flex pipe now like it should be

[sulimed]

pics of the fix

[Cb_JoeyG]

Still leakin like a bitch

[Koochologist]

So do you think the header was worth it with all the issues your having? I was almost considering buying one instead of an H and building my F but now I don't think I would be doing this.

[Granite CB7]

Yeah, my Bisi header leaked pretty bad since day one. Assembled it with anti-seize as suggested by HondaFan81, first start up, spitting it out everywhere, I knew the future wasn't looking good. Then motor began to burn oil, gave me headaches all the time, had to have the windows down all the time, parts of interior started turning black. My clothes smelled horrible from the exhaust. To give you an idea, my shiny silver IM literally turned BLACK, so was the firewall and bottom of my hood.

I tried everything, high temp silicone on the outside, gooping the crap out of the tubes and assembling, hard exhaust epoxy, didn't work. Not enough surface area w/ slight movement. And silicone doesn't not work w/ sliding parts, it gets planed right off.

Best fix was a combo of header wrap on the outside w/ 2 large hose clamps and wood stove fiberglass gasket rope stuffed on the inside.

Those weren't my only issues though- I found a decent sized pinhole in a weld right out of the box, poor QC and inspection. 02 bung I can't use, aims sensor right into block. Rusted out horribly the 1st winter I had it. Should have included bracket for engine block connection and donut gasket kit. It had def. been bittersweet for me.

I'm now debating to send the header back to Bisimoto or have the damn thing welded together. Headers like Bisi's can be 1 pc. right? There's been plenty of 1 pc. headers made w/o issues. Thoughts?

[AccordWarrior]

Yeah, my Bisi header leaked pretty bad since day one. Assembled it with anti-seize as suggested by HondaFan81, first start up, spitting it out everywhere, I knew the future wasn't looking good. Then motor began to burn oil, gave me headaches all the time, had to have the windows down all the time, parts of interior started turning black. My clothes smelled horrible from the exhaust. To give you an idea, my shiny silver IM literally turned BLACK, so was the firewall and bottom of my hood.

I tried everything, high temp silicone on the outside, gooping the crap out of the tubes and assembling, hard exhaust epoxy, didn't work. Not enough surface area w/ slight movement. And silicone doesn't not work w/ sliding parts, it gets planed right off.

Best fix was a combo of header wrap on the outside w/ 2 large hose clamps and wood stove fiberglass gasket rope stuffed on the inside.

Those weren't my only issues though- I found a decent sized pinhole in a weld right out of the box, poor QC and inspection. 02 bung I can't use, aims sensor right into block. Rusted out horribly the 1st winter I had it. Should have included bracket for engine block connection and donut gasket kit. It had def. been bittersweet for me.

I'm now debating to send the header back to Bisimoto or have the damn thing welded together. Headers like Bisi's can be 1 pc. right? There's been plenty of 1 pc. headers made w/o issues. Thoughts?

That's AWFUL. I would click multiple pictures and send them to Bisi directly. There is no reason that a piece that is THAT expensive should have that many issues.

I know you take pride in your engine bay's appearance (it made most everyone I know feel embarrassed by the shape of theirs), so that must be heartbreaking for you.

[Losiracer2]

I had the same issues with a Hotshot header I bought a couple years back for my H22. It used the same slip fit connection and no matter what I did it leaked. I ended up having it welded but then it wouldn't clear anything, I basically had to remove the engine to install it which was my breaking point.

I just cut my losses and sold it to a guy with an H swapped CRX for 400 all tig-welded up. Luckily I only really lost time vs. money. I must've spent 10 hrs trying to make it work. And I was only in the hole about 50 bucks.

Hope it works out for you Joey

[GhostAccord]

Don't forget about the loss of mid range power that most of these headers have shown on the dyno. From what I have been seeing lately. Seems like only the low Hp F22 Accord crowd are the ones still standing behind his "custom" headers.

Time to drop the price of these "Custom" headers if the quality control and reliability is dropping this fast. Not to mention the claimed power gains!

[Accrdwgnguy]

Yeah, my Bisi header leaked pretty bad since day one. Assembled it with anti-seize as suggested by HondaFan81, first start up, spitting it out everywhere, I knew the future wasn't looking good. Then motor began to burn oil, gave me headaches all the time, had to have the windows down all the time, parts of interior started turning black. My clothes smelled horrible from the exhaust. To give you an idea, my shiny silver IM literally turned BLACK, so was the firewall and bottom of my hood.

I tried everything, high temp silicone on the outside, gooping the crap out of the tubes and assembling, hard exhaust epoxy, didn't work. Not enough surface area w/ slight movement. And silicone doesn't not work w/ sliding parts, it gets planed right off.

Best fix was a combo of header wrap on the outside w/ 2 large hose clamps and wood stove fiberglass gasket rope stuffed on the inside.

Those weren't my only issues though- I found a decent sized pinhole in a weld right out of the box, poor QC and inspection. 02 bung I can't use, aims sensor right into block. Rusted out horribly the 1st winter I had it. Should have included bracket for engine block connection and donut gasket kit. It had def. been bittersweet for me.

I'm now debating to send the header back to Bisimoto or have the damn thing welded together. Headers like Bisi's can be 1 pc. right? There's been plenty of 1 pc. headers made w/o issues. Thoughts?

Dan that is just downright wrong. For the high tech, high quality Bisi claims all his parts are made with, I'd call him up, tell him all my troubles with his overpriced product, and ask for a full refund. $1200 is a good chunk of change. If he complains, tell him you'll pay the return shipping for the pile of pipes. If he doesn't want it back, even better.

As for fixing it, a good option would be to weld the slip joint together, then cut the 3" pipe at the bottom of the collector, and weld in a 3" small block Chevy header flange. That way you can still remove the header without disassembling half of the car.

Don't forget about the loss of mid range power that most of these headers have shown on the dyno. From what I have been seeing lately. Seems like only the low Hp F22 Accord crowd are the ones still standing behind his "custom" headers.

Time to drop the price of these "Custom" headers if the quality control and reliability is dropping this fast. Not to mention the claimed power gains!

Dan also got one of the first run of the headers, makes one think that the quality control was never as high as we were lead to believe.