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    Engine code 15 ignition output signal?

    The h22 threw a code 15 which is ignition output signal. does it mean I'm getting a bad spark and something is not grounded?

    #2
    That usually means that you should test your coil and/or your ICM (ignitor). Along with the wiring between those items and the ECU. There is something wrong with the voltage signals the ECU is receiving from them.
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      #3
      I just bought a new dizzy so I hope its not that, must be my ignition coil. Thanks for the info!

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        #4
        Is it a reman distributor or an OEM Honda distriutor? The remans usually use cheap electronic replacement parts. That's why they are cheaper than OEM. They use a no name $50 ignitor that may last a week, month or maybe 5 years vs the $180 NEC (OEM) ignitor that will last 15-20 years.

        Test them both to be sure!
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          #5
          I don't remember, but I bought it new. Cost like 200, but it came with a life time warranty so I'm not worried about the dizzy. I'm pretty sure its the coil, but yes I'll check them both.

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            #6
            From my experience, Code 15 is almost always the ignitor. Is your tach bouncing at all?

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              #7
              Nope arrow is smooth, but idle is inconsistent. Sometimes it'll be right around 800 then it'll be like 500, but that's probably a different problem lol.

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                #8
                I dont think its worth replacing the whole dizzy because of cost. Its easy to replace the ignitor. I would also check all of the wires as far as the harness go's.Its the yellow wire with the green stripe go's to the ecu and it needs to be clean other wires if its not making a good connection you could get that code. the ignitor went bad in my dads 90 lx like two weeks ago and there was no check engine light. I was smrat and I had another ignitor at the house and I changed it in fifteen minutes. I could make shure all of the connections are clean on it in the harness plugs because sometimes water gets in and messes them up.
                Last edited by thepowderblue; 06-01-2011, 05:36 PM.
                Green EX http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=176536
                93 SE http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210486

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                  #9
                  Well I had to buy a new dizzy because I swapped in an h22a. So I needed the external coil dizzy, and the new one has a warranty so I'd get a free one if it is the dizzy.

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                    #10
                    Do you still have your old distributor (from the f)? The ignitor should be the same so I'd try swapping that in.

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                      #11
                      but if he could get a new one for free.
                      Green EX http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=176536
                      93 SE http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210486

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                        #12
                        my old f igniter went bad I replaced that. Man electrical problems are a pain.

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                          #13
                          Yeah dude trust me I know how you feel. I just spend 2k on that accord se and I have only put like 200 miles on and because of a short in the harness I cant drive it. Well I Think its in the harness.I hope.
                          Green EX http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=176536
                          93 SE http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=210486

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                            #14
                            I'm also getting a code 1 for the o2 sensor, but I have a brand new o2 senor so am I supposed to have two or what?

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                              #15
                              What brand of O2 did you buy? Sometimes the Honda PGM-FI doesn't take to well to Bosch O2 sensors. It's finicky that way and likes the NGK or Denso brands. Is it a universal fit that you had to splice wires together or was it a plug-n-play with a connector?

                              If it is an OEM replacement (Denso/NGK) then this is could be an example why replacing parts without doing any sort of testing can be a waste of money. The code actually states that it is a problem in the HO2S circuit not just the sensor. After the code points you to that circuit as being the issue. There are troubleshooting procedures you can follow in order to determine what part of the circuit is a t fault, wiring, ECU or the senor itself.
                              Last edited by GhostAccord; 06-03-2011, 09:27 AM.
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