tranny/clutch car is cursed

[blazedealh91]

okay so i replaced the clutch and tranny here is what was done
clutch (off ebay
findanzza flywheel
h23 tranny
h23 gutted mani
now for the problem
i have a check angine light
code 7 12 14
but when i drive i can drive for 30 min and everthing is fine but a mile or two later the car does not want to move. if i turn the car off and let it cool down for about 10 mins i can drive another 20 miles
could a bad tps sensor make the car act like this
i was helped with the the tranny/flywheel/clutch install by carcollectorkid
he cant think of anything that would cause this
plz help this has been 3 days of this crap and geting old about to sell it

[YK86]

What do you mean by it doesn't want to move? Like the engine revs but doesn't go anywhere? Or the engine doesn't want to go past a certain rpm?

Code 7 is tps, 12 is egr, 14 is iacv. Are you sure you wired/plugged these in correctly?

[accordztech]

so after you installed the clutch and tranny you have issues?

[blazedealh91]

the revs go up but i dont go anywere and this is after i did the swap

[blazedealh91]

What do you mean by it doesn't want to move? Like the engine revs but doesn't go anywhere? Or the engine doesn't want to go past a certain rpm?

Code 7 is tps, 12 is egr, 14 is iacv. Are you sure you wired/plugged these in correctly?

what other way could i have wired them i did not cut any wires

[YK86]

If the revs go up and you aren't going anywhere, it's VERY likely the clutch system needs to be bled. This happened to me after a 5 speed swap. As soon as the engine/tranny heat up, I started slipping badly and it'll only do it when it's hot.

I found it's best to do it with 2 people using the pump a few times and hold down method while the other opens and closes the bleed valve. I couldn't get my air out completely until I did this.

BTW, did you have those codes before swapping the manifold over?

[blazedealh91]

no the check angine light never came on my freind use the throttle on his accord wich has the f22 with h23 intake and he never code any codes
should i bleed it when its warm

[YK86]

It's unlikely but all 3 sensors might be dead from sitting outside for too long.

Check the egr valve to see if it holds vacuum. If you have a vacuum gauge, pumping it at idle should cause the car to stall or almost stall. If you don't have one, with the car off, remove the vacuum hose and push the diaphragm up with your finger and then cover the nub where the vacuum hose was. The diaphragm should not drop down when you let go of the diaphragm with the nub covered (a little is normal but not all the way down). If it drops, the diaphram is dead and doesn't hold vacuum. Just swap it with your old f22 egr valve.

For the tps, you need to test 2 of the 3 wires with the ignition in the II position. One will have 5V I think, one is ground, the other goes to the ecu. The ecu wire should read 0.45 to 0.5V fully closed and somewhere around 4.5V at WOT. WOT voltage is not as important, just make sure the fully closed voltage is around 0.45V.

For the IACV, make sure it's nice and clean. With the car running, unplug it and then plug it back in. You should hear a slight whooshing sound. This means the IACV is responding. If you don't hear anything, it's dead. The cel will come on when you unplug it but should disappear after restarting the car.

For bleeding the clutch system, I just do it cold. It's kinda tight in that area and easy to burn yourself with the hot hoses and stuff if you aren't careful.

[accordztech]

I don't get it. You said it doesn't go...so it doesn't go in gear...it just revved....any clutch pressure?

[blazedealh91]

I don't get it. You said it doesn't go...so it doesn't go in gear...it just revved....any clutch pressure?

it just revs up it goes in gear just fine

[thepowderblue]

When you replaced the clutch did you hook everything you moved or took out to get the clutch out back up properly? Wires vacuum line wires.exc,

[blazedealh91]

i found out what it was i had to adjust the clutch masters rod

[accordztech]

lol