Bouncing Idle

[reklipz]

I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow: I'll try to snag some main relays, a new ABV and a new EACV. Time permitting, I'll also check the wiring, and check the EACV beyond a simple ohm test; I'll also check the ECU for proper EACV control.

I checked my EACV according to the Helms manual. It says the EACV checks out fine and that the issue lays with the ECU. I know the flow-chart "solutions" aren't perfect (they can't account for an intermittent issue like this), so I doubt my ECU is bad.

I just got back from the junk yard. I didn't grab any main relays because I pretty much threw that idea out. And they're a pain in the ass to get to.

I grabbed two ABVs and two EACVs; four bucks a piece. I also grabbed a new dizzy cap, because the one I have is only held on by a single screw; not sure if that's really an issue, but it can't hurt.

Finally, I also grabbed a gas cap for my gas tank. The one I have on there makes a clicking noise when you turn it, and it doesn't look like OEM. Also, when I open the gas tank to fill up, I can hear the tank pressure equalizing. I'm not sure if it's above or below atmosphere (sucking or blowing), but it is definitely pressurized one way or the other. Maybe that's part of the performance issue (fuel related), and this will fix that. If not, I can always look at a fuel filter; it's probably due for one anyway (as far as I know, the current one has 222k miles on it).


I'll post updates later today once I get time to put them on. I've got to go test drive an RB20 swapped Nissan 240SX with a friend.

[Accord problems]

Thanks for the reply. Today I removed all of the vacuum lines for inspection and cleaning, including the firewall black box. All of the hoses "held pressure" when I plugged them with m finger and blew on them with my mouth, but a few had nicks in them so I replaced them anyway. I also replaced the O-rings on the air boost valve as I had some from an assortment kit that fit laying around. I drove to dinner in the heat around 5PM, and the "delayed throttle" issue was still present. The open loop 1k-2k rpm idle didn't occur, but that was a bit intermittent anyway, so I can't claim that's fixed. Next, around midnight I let my friend drive the car to show him the issues, and they were much less pronounced; perhaps gone. The car had cooled by then, and I drove it home and was unable to get the 1 second or so delayed throttle to show up. An hour later I drove home; the last half of my ride home was the smoothest I've ever felt the car while driving at 2k rpm. I should note that I had a couple of beers in me at this point (literally two; but I'm not a lightweight, so yeah...).

I'm going to be swapping the stock F22A1 TB/plenum/IM with an H22/H23 TB/plenum and an F22A6 IM+IAB+ECU sometime soon. Hopefully, if the problem isn't fixed, the new gaskets and seals from that work will fix the issue. If not, then I'll be looking for a different IACV.

I should note that lately I've been having code 41 (heated O2 sensor; overheated I think) being thrown when starting my car while it's hot outside. I changed my O2 sensor with a new Denso two days ago, and I have yet to see the code. Also, I reset the ECU each time I do work to try and fix the problem.

I'm wondering if perhaps the main relay is going bad? The EACV, O2 sensor heating element, and the injectors are all powered directly from the main relay. Is it possible that the heat (we're getting 100 F sometimes here in Nebraska), is causing the main relay to flake out at times, causing the O2 sensor heating element code, possible screwing with the EACV, and possibly screwing with the injectors causing the low rpm (sub 2k) performance issues I think I'm noticing?



FYI: Geoff has already resolved his issue, and he claims it was due to a tight throttle cable. More FYI: you're likely referring to the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body, as I'm pretty sure the EACV has not adjustable parts.

On a related note, while working on the vacuum lines, I readjusted my base idle. It was idling at about 850/900, but I figured it's worth a shot. I let the engine warm up, unplugged the EACV (the rpm dropped a bit at this point, which is expected of a working EACV), and adjusted the idle screw on the TB. With the idle screw all the way in, the rpm won't adjust to below about 650/700; I read that with the EACV disconnected you should be able to stall the engine via the idle screw, and if not it's an indication of a vacuum leak. I adjusted the idle as low as I could (650ish I think), and plugged the EACV back in; the rpm jumped back up to 800ish. I reset the ECU and that's where I left it to drive for the evening.

I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow: I'll try to snag some main relays, a new ABV and a new EACV. Time permitting, I'll also check the wiring, and check the EACV beyond a simple ohm test; I'll also check the ECU for proper EACV control.

This post is already long, so thanks a million (seriously) for sticking through to the end. Lastly: after doing the vacuum cleaning, I noticed that when I quickly open the throttle I hear a sound from near/under the air filter box. On my car (I don't know if this is with all F22A1s, or just my car), there is a vacuum line that runs from the throttle body all the way to a black box (similar to the one for the IABs on the F22A6 runners) past the air filter box. The air filter box has two plastic tubes, and one has a diaphragm on it. I assume that diaphragm is the one making the noise? I've never noticed it before, but it's possible it always has. When I place my hand on the end of the tube (I think it's the one with the diaphragm, I'll have to check), I can feel a quick rush of air coming out of it (when I quickly open the throttle).

Whew! That was a long one!

i ment that for you . i miss stakeinly put that on GeoffM my bad bro.

[HelmHoltz]

I had the same problem after I cleaned my TB and messed with the Idle screw. I took me a week to figure it out. It only messed up after heat soaking. Turned the idle adjust screw back CW 1/2 a turn and it cleared up!