JDM H22a acting a little funny

[Skeet Skeet]

I just swapped an H22a in my CB and now I am having issues. 2 ECUs are being used to figure out the issues.

P28:
No check engine lights
H22a map with 8k rpm redline and 6k VTEC
Bounces off rev limiter at 6800 and check engine light comes on when it does that (shift light? its supposed to be set at around 7500)
Idles at 1500
No VTEC

P0F:
Check engine lights for EGR, O2, and who knows what else
Bounces off rev limiter at 6500
No VTEC
idles at 800

I can't seem to figure out what my problem is. I set my TPS at .45 volts and it read 4.28 wot so it should be fine. Everything is hooked up and works great. I am currently running the internal coil distributor that it came with and I have a fuse in the coil plug like shown in a DIY. My temp gauge works and I know I have all my wiring correct. I am also running open down pipe as well. I have wiggled and checked all connections to the engine and computer and everything looks great. Its got a fresh oil change with 4.5 quarts of oil. Its so clean on the inside its crazy so I can't imagine having a clog somewhere in the solenoid screen. I am stumped and I can't figure out whats up.

[daovangphotos]

First off, which H22 are you using? JDM prelude, JDM accord euro-r?

Run the right ecu for the right motor, and pull the codes and fix the issues first before trying to engage vtec and see the rev limiter.

Im running the JDM euro-r accord H22a with the P0F ecu with my F auto tranny and the F TCU.

When driving without manually shifting, vtec engages and 5,5 and the tranny shifts at 6,1.
When manually shifting, i pull it to 7,4 before shifting.

When running with the F TCU, i rev in neutral and i hit the rev limiter at 6,2.
I have never tried revving the motor in neutral with the P0N TCU.



But like i said, run the right ECU for the motor, and pull the codes and fix them first before smashing otherwise you can do serious damage to your engine.

[Skeet Skeet]

The P0F is the ECU that came with this motor. I am running the P28 because its chipped for the H22a and thats what I prefer to run because I want to eliminate the EGR, O2, and other BS codes I can't stand dealing with.. I have an Accord SIR motor and from what it looks like, it appears to be from 97 according to the time stamps on the engine.

Other than the problems I am having, it doesn't sputter, spit, or act stupid until I want VTEC to crossover. The torque is there and runs overall awesome.

[pedroalcala]

CHeck your oil pressure and oil...
check for any missing inputs on the ecu or grouds or any other wires touching...
could be maybe the oil pump what to go out, and not having enought oil...

[Skeet Skeet]

There is no way on gods green earth there is anything wrong with the block itself. It looks as if the block just got assembled at the factory. But back to the story. I have pretty much eliminated the fact that the VTEC pressure switch is bad because the P0f doesnt look for it and the only thing I can think of that the P0F can send it into a limp mode would be the o2 sensor.

Edit: Which sensor sends the temp reading to the ECU? My actual guage works but isn't there a separate sensor for the ecu?

[Skeet Skeet]

Ok I wiggled more wires, and put the P28 back in and its now going past 6800 but I still don't have any VTEC. Now that I have that figured out, I guess I need to go on to figuring out the VTEC issue. I took the oil pressure switch out on the VTEC housing and cleaned it really good after that last run and I have yet to test it. Im letting her cool down for a minute so I can clean the screens.

[mcdizzle]

totally off topic: why do you have vtec set 800rpms later than a stock ecu?

[Skeet Skeet]

It wasnt my doing. Its a loaner. Im bout to get a p28 that doesnt throw an o2 code and has 5000rpm vtec.


I just checked the screen and like the rest of the motor, its clean as a whistle.

[Skeet Skeet]

Ok I just got back from my test drive and now VTEC hits late as balls at around 7k but only SOMETIMES. Is it possible the oil pressure switch is causing this?

[Skeet Skeet]

Ok I have switched out the oil pressure switch and once again it is a no go. I am back to square one with it hitting at 6800 AGAIN. I didn't think P28's had that rev limit like P13's do. I still haven't figured out which coolant temp sensor does what as far as the ones on the head and one on the thermo housing. Im bout to switch the one on the thermo housing to see what it does.

[HenRoc]

Find a p13 and run it if you encounter any problems with the p13 you can work your way out from there.

Never try and run the an unknown ecu in the first place...just my 2 cents

[illestatus]

Find a p13 and run it if you encounter any problems with the p13 you can work your way out from there.

Never try and run the an unknown ecu in the first place...just my 2 cents

^^^^get a p13 and go from there

[HenRoc]

^^^^get a p13 and go from there

Totally off topic but I love those rims. I have a set of white RSX's on loan on my coupe.

[Skeet Skeet]

Find a p13 and run it if you encounter any problems with the p13 you can work your way out from there.

Never try and run the an unknown ecu in the first place...just my 2 cents

That means I have to buy an o2 sensor and run it to the back of the motor, switch out the EGR, throw codes for not having a mystery box, and who knows what other code will be thrown. I used an H22a mapped P28 that I know for a fact has vtec engagement of 5k and does not look for egr, o2, or anything that will throw me for a loop and cause me to spend money on stuff I wont be using in the next couple months anyways (getting it tuned).


But I have come to the conclusion that the oil pan that happens to have the smallest little dent towards the back is the culprit. I guess I will have to snatch one off an H23a1 I have laying around to go on it. Why I went with an H22a is beyond me!

[daovangphotos]

Is your knock sensor wired up correctly?
My car used to go into limp mode after crossing vtec, or on a casual drive, getting up past 25mph. VTEC did not engage afterwards as it was very hard to get the car to drive normal.

I had my oil pressure sensor wired to my knock sensor and my knock sensor to my oil pressure sensor. After swapping the lines back, it hit like a heart attack, the car drove without any issues and so much power compared to the F22.