Worn clutch??

[sonikaccord]

My clutch starts off soft in the morning or when I haven't driven in a while. The engagement point is very close to the floor and the travel is short too. After my car warms up, the pedal stiffens up and the engagement point moves close to it's correct position. Then more time goes and the pedal gets really stiff and the clutch barely has an engagement point. It's also slipped a couple of times but only when the pedal is stiff. All of my clutch hydraulics have been replaced.

Does this mean I need a new clutch?

[Skeet Skeet]

That sounds something similar to the brake master cylinder on my Civic. It does fine when cold, but when it gets warm outside, it goes to the floor when I am at a stop light. Could be air in the line somewhere...

[sonikaccord]

wouldn't air in the line make it harder to shift? I'll see if I can bleed it though.

[Skeet Skeet]

You are supposed to bleed that stuff if you replace either component.

[deevergote]

That is definitely a hydraulic issue. However, if your hydraulics are failing (or since they're new, more likely that they haven't been bled correctly), chances are you've damaged your clutch. So yes, you might have a worn clutch now... as a result of driving like that.

Re-bleed the lines. My car has actually been down for 2 years because I can't get pressure back into my clutch... and I've been too busy to really put a lot of time into it. Bleeding the clutch hydraulics properly can be an ordeal.

[sonikaccord]

Well I haven't driven it much. Basically just back and forward to work, and babying it on those trips. The guy I took it too said he bled it until all the bubbles stop coming out. He used a power bleeder or something like that. I know before he did that he couldn't get any pressure at all manually. I should get it re-bled right?

[sonikaccord]

Up for more info.
I've heard various things from different places.
One guy automatically said my slave was going...that can't be it cause the clutch would get softer and eventually fall to the floor.

The guy that change my slave and master said my clutch was worn and something about the pressure plate fingers, yada yada. In the back of my head, I'm like what the hell does that have to with my engagement point moving up and down?

Bleeding isn't cheap and I want to know that that's exactly the problem before I do it.

[deevergote]

The pressure plate fingers could be the issue, but it is HIGHLY unlikely.

The master cylinder is the most likely culprit if the pedal is reacting funny, but the slave could be the problem as well. Personally, I believe both should be replaced at the same time.
My car has been down for 2 years due to improper bleeding (and no time to do it properly)... so that could very well be the issue. I am going to be trying a new method of bleeding the system this weekend. If it works, I'll let you know.

[sonikaccord]

Please do. I just read the diy but I can't afford to have my clutch fall to the floor.
I'm trying to see if any other tuners have used oem parts that I can buy to replace the duracrap parts.

[deevergote]

Used OEM won't necessarily be better the duracrap parts (which are what I have on my car... so maybe that's my problem too!)

If you have to replace your hyrdraulics, cough up the dough for OEM Honda. It will be worth the peace of mind.



As for the technique that I'm trying... I'm going to try filling a battery fluid tool (like a turkey baster) with brake fluid, and using that to push the fluid through the line that hooks up to the master cylinder. HOPEFULLY that will get all the air out of the line, and return pressure to my currently lifeless clutch pedal!