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about to pull the head off

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    about to pull the head off

    well it's actually a warm day today (almost 40 F) so i'm gunna start to pull the head to build it/replace head gasket. right now everything is still in place. my plan is to rotate engine to tdc to make it easier to reinstall the TB when i'm all done. also i need to make a new timing mark on the fidanza flywheel i installed 2 yrs ago. i was thinking about unbolting the intake manifold before i pull the head. is this the best way? any advice would help. f22a1 btw. thanks!
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    #2
    I think its easier to take the head off with the intake on it. It weighs slightly more but its a real PITA to take those 9 nuts off the back of the head.

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      #3
      Yes, rotate motor until Cylinder # 1 is TDC and yes its much easier to take it off with the IM.
      Last edited by BLUBB2; 01-28-2011, 03:30 AM.
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        #4
        thanks guy. that's wat i ended up doing
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          #5
          And I'd recommend making a template or something to help with the order of the head bolts. The number 2 head stud (the one in the middle, back row by the intake manifold) is longer than the others. Other than that, that part is pretty straight forward. I'm hoping you're using new bolts? And also remember to dip them in some motor oil before ya put em in and follow the proper torque sequence.

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            #6
            i usually leave the intake off but with the factory brace which i usually leave off as well, it makes it a bitch to fit a ratchet or wrench up in there.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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              #7
              ya i intended to unbolt the IM from the head before pulling the head off, but couldnt get to the bolts(idk how i ever got that IM on there in the first place). Then i remembered i could reach the bolt that connects the brace to the IM from the bottom so i just removed that one and the hoses and wires and pulled it off as one unit. I think it's easier that way.

              Originally posted by nine_deuce View Post
              And I'd recommend making a template or something to help with the order of the head bolts. The number 2 head stud (the one in the middle, back row by the intake manifold) is longer than the others. Other than that, that part is pretty straight forward. I'm hoping you're using new bolts? And also remember to dip them in some motor oil before ya put em in and follow the proper torque sequence.
              i will be replacing them with arp head studs.
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                #8
                If you need help with installing stuff into the head, I might be able to help you out. I have some tools for that.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by D1sclaimer View Post
                  If you need help with installing stuff into the head, I might be able to help you out. I have some tools for that.
                  alright cool. i'm filing taxes as we speak then i'll start buying parts. you know anyone who can do good port work on the head? i was thinking Rojam, but i'd wanna make sure they know what they're doing with the f22 head
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                    #10
                    For the most part I've heard good things about Rojam. Do they do port work though? I thought most places in Omaha send heads out to other places for porting.

                    This guy in Fort Calhoun is supposed to do great head work. He does stuff for a lot of the cars at MAM. He mainly does domestics so I don't know if he'd be able to help you out too much. It'd be worth asking him though.
                    http://www.smithbergracing.com/

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by D1sclaimer View Post
                      For the most part I've heard good things about Rojam. Do they do port work though? I thought most places in Omaha send heads out to other places for porting.

                      This guy in Fort Calhoun is supposed to do great head work. He does stuff for a lot of the cars at MAM. He mainly does domestics so I don't know if he'd be able to help you out too much. It'd be worth asking him though.
                      http://www.smithbergracing.com/
                      alright thanks. i emailed them o we'll see wat they say. I'll call rojam sometime too. here's my plan so far:

                      Port the head with emphasis on the exhaust side.
                      Bisimoto level 2 cam regrind
                      Bisimoto springs
                      Bisimoto head gasket
                      ARP head studs
                      Stock valves, retainers, and rocker arm spacers

                      I already have a Skunk2 adjustable cam gear. I'm still deciding what i wanna do for engine management.
                      Last edited by theSOB; 01-31-2011, 06:38 PM.
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                        #12
                        Why not throw in new valves while you have the head off? At least check the stock valves out and make sure they're not bent or warped.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by D1sclaimer View Post
                          Why not throw in new valves while you have the head off? At least check the stock valves out and make sure they're not bent or warped.
                          ya i'm probaby gunna get some new oem valves and retainers.

                          Nick from Smithberg Racing emailed me back. he's never done a honda head befor but thinks he'd be able to work something out. he wants to see it first before he makes an estimate on it.
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                            #14
                            Nice. Let me know how much he quotes you.

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