No Fuel...have spark and compression

[Losiracer2]

Cutting a hole is scary... sparks near the fuel tank woudl sway me! Of course, if the stuff holding the fuel tank in place is all rusted, then it's going to be a pain, and things will need to be replaced.


If you're SURE you don't hear your fuel pump turning on, and you're SURE you have a working main relay... check your wiring first, then assume the pump is bad.

Another possible culprit is the injector resistor box. I've seen maybe 2 of them go bad on this site... it's not common, but not unheard of. Might want to give that a shot before dropping the tank, as it's a MUCH easier part to replace!

yeah, I had Mike (almostJDM) listen for the pump when i primed the ignition to the ON position a couple times with no luck. I took apart the Main Relay and Resoldered it just to make sure, and I can definitely feel it clicking for 3 seconds or however long it signals the pump to prime for.

The guy that I bought the pump from used an air hammer, a pretty beefy looking one and it didn't cause any sparks, just ate right through the metal like butter.

But I don't think I'd have too much difficulty with this car, its an AZ car with zero rust, I just, eh, hate lifting heavy things by myself. I'm probably going to drop the tank since I don't feel like buying an air hammer.

well I just learned something new, I never knew an injector resistor box could cause the fuel pump not to work, and yea it would be alot easier to replace, and since its really easy to remove you could try the one from your other cb, and we checked double checked and even tripple checked the wiring to make sure we had everything hooked up correctly, and the fact it fires up with carb cleaner means its all hooked up correctly

yeah we sure did check it all. I can't believe we redid the entire engine in about a day's time and had it back in mated to the trans with everything wired up. Damn Fuel Pump! it would've run that night! Thanks again for the help, I needed that motivation to get it done.

[deevergote]

I never said the injector resistor box could make the fuel pump not work, but a faulty box could result in a no-fuel situation.

EVERYONE assumes that no fuel means their fuel pump is bad... so rather than believe that everyone knows exactly what they're talking about, I present all possible options. I sure as hell wouldn't want to drop my fuel tank only to learn that I could have fixed the problem by replacing a small underhood part!



Have fun kids. I'm bowing out of this one.

[quaidum]

if i had a scanner i would send you pictures of the fuel delivery troubleshooting pages from honda



remove main relay

install a jumper wire from the black/yellow terminal(5) to the yellow terminal (7) on the connector with wires going to chassis

when looking at the tabs on the main relay itself
- - X -
- - - -
8-6-X-2
7-5-3-1

there is no 4 tab

when you turn the key to the ignition ON position with the jumper wire installed there should be voltage at the fuel level sending unit (under back passenger seat below the access cover) if there is then replace pump, if there is no voltage check/replace the relay

[quaidum]

i hope the pictures are clear enough

[Losiracer2]

WELL, I found out what the problem was. And it wasn't the fuel pump, well it was and it wasn't.

Take a look at the pics.









Figure it out? Turns out the fuel pump worked fine. It was the wiring going to the pump 8 inches before the connector that was frayed and was shorting out against the gas tank. I'm SO pissed off. 1 WIRE! was the cause of this whole no start situation.

It took me about 4 hrs to drain the gas tank and remove it from the car, I guessed about 3-4 gallons and there was closer to 8 in there. I made a mess on the driveway, got dirt in my eye even with safety glasses all to find out it was the stupid wire loom that was rubbing the entire time.

UGH. I guess at least I've got a spare fuel pump now. Thanks for everyone's help. I think I'm going to put the tank and all the back seat stuff in tomorrow in the daytime. What a waste, If only I had known it was the wiring, coulda save myself draining of the tank and the headache.

[BLUBB2]

Good stuff, at least you got it figued out...

[Losiracer2]

I got the car started! but it has other issues....overheats b/c of the condenser fan not turning on, when I hit the gas it revs up to 2500rpms, it runs really rough. idk what's exactly wrong with it now.

[wed3k]

i took my condenser fan out and my car never overheated.

[Losiracer2]

i took my condenser fan out and my car never overheated.

well I know it works, I tested it by running it straight from the batt. and it turns on. Must be one of the thermo sensors then. b/c the upper Rad. hose is hot to the touch and the lower one is not really. No leaks, took care of all that. Thermostat is new, T-stat ground is secure, idk. I mean it can't be that hard right? 2 thermo sensors, a T-stat and a couple fans.

Another issue I have is some screeching coming from one of the pulleys, idk if its the P/S Alt or A/C. Ugh, so much more work.

I also went to go try and start it now, and I'm getting fuel and it wants to start but doesn't, just sputters.

I just don't know where to start.

[Paging]

Fast idle valve, IACV i would play with first because its easy. On the Overheating maybe air in the system I've had fans not come on from what i thought and later found out was air in the system. Just don't bleed it when the engine is off lol.

How is your timing set?
I'm trying not to imply but i've seen a couple people try to set it with out jumping the service connector. (just saw your post total lol now i feel like an ass)

sorry for not keeping up to date (night school)