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How do I replace the speedometer?

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    #16
    Would a wet dizzy cause all these problems? I gave the engine a bath, but now it bogs down, pops, and sputters quite a bit. I can't get it higher than 3500rpms without it trying to cut itself off and if I try to hit the gas from a dead stop, it acts like its choking to death. When I try to start it, the starter cranks and the engine turns, but when it tries to ignite the fuel, it pops once or twice then dies. ECU threw out a Code 1, but I still don't know what to do. What could have happened and how do I fix it?

    Edit: When I went to the local Honda dealership and gave them the ECU and TCU codes, they came back and said "replace the distributor. Most likely the distributor is corroded."
    Last edited by otacon122; 10-02-2010, 12:35 AM.

    My little girl

    1991 CB7 Accord EX
    F22A4 with P12 ECU on the stock four-speed automatic
    K&N E-0774 air filter in place of airbox
    NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
    Sony CDX GT640UI head unit
    6.5" 2-way Alpine Type S up front
    6x9's 3-way Alpine Type S in back
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      #17
      Okay, here is the bottom line regarding your original post. If your speedometer does not work and you are getting error codes from either the TCU or ECU, the problem is either going to be your vehicle speed sensor, the TCU, or the wiring in between the two that is causing the problem. The main and counter shaft speed sensors on the tranny are only for the TCU to know when and how to shift gears, and they have nothing to do with the speed that shows up on the speedometer. If you are not getting any errors and your speedometer does not work, then it might actually be the speedometer that is shot. There is your speedometer issue, now you have to figure out what is wrong.

      Now that you gave your engine a bath, you have a new issue, right? I'm assuming that the car ran fine before this. There are several posts in this forum that warn people to cover up the distributer when washing the engine because of the problems it can cause. I would start by removing the distributer cap to allow the distributer to air out. If you have an air compressor, it would help speed things up if you blast air inside there. Also wouldn't hurt to clean off any corrosion on the contacts inside the dizzy cap itself. Remove all of the spark plug cables from the cap (one at a time so you know which one goes where) and made sure there is no moisture inside the port or on the wire. Use a paper towel or something to make sure it's clean and dry. Then pull the wires off the spark plugs and make sure there is not any water in the spark plug tubes. While you're there, pull the plugs and make sure they are clean and gapped properly (.044"). You'd be surprised what kind of problems improperly gapped sparkers can cause. Next, for any wires you see that run into the distributer (should be two sets), disconnect them from the wiring harness on the chasis (connector(s) should be right there by the dizzy) and blast them with air to make sure they are dry. Leave the dizzy cap off for about 24 hours and try again. If you still have problems, it's probably the ignitor inside the distributer that is bad. You can replace the entire distributer if you want (which would give you a new ignitor, cap, rotor, and coil), but if you have a strong spark I would just do the ignitor. You probably want to get this fixed before you worry about the speedometer.

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