Code 9 is the cylinder sensor...not exactly sure about the next step sooooo Car drives fine and the CEL comes on when driving. My idle drops and sometimes dies but thats the only thing i can think of thats wrong with the car (and that can be fixed with a couple of new chip burns). Car pulls fine, drives fine, and idles fine (after the voltage drop).
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Getting a code 9 from the ecu
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CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
that would be in your distributor... my friend had the same problem. and you cant just buy that sensor, you have to buy a new distributor.H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM
190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header
ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter
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My dizzy is from a 92 lx it had like 144k on it or somethin when i bought it from a friend. It has an msd external coil i hooked up to it. Do u think that could maybe be the problem? Maybe the coil is at hand? Or is it simply a sensor in the dizzy?Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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The CYP is the sensor in the center of the distributor that picks up off the large rotor in the center (like the excitor you would see on your ABS). That sensor is a magnetic pick up if it has some debris stuck to it, It will trigger the CEL. What I would do is test the sensor first.
Disconnect the distributor plug, Using your OHM meter check the resistance between the orange and white wires. It should be between 350-700 ohms. If it isn't don't panic, Remove the dizzy and clean out it's insides really good with brake parts cleaner. Clean it real good and blow it out with compressed air. Then retest, It's most likely just dirty.
If the dizzy checks out good then you have a wiring problem between the distributor and pis B11 and B12 on the ECU.
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also do you think this could be whats affecting my idle? I don't quite see the connection but its still best to ask. Its like coming off the throttle when the car is supposed to catch around 1100rpm or so then idle down to 700 it will drop 1-2Volts on the way down from 1100rpm and sometimes die outKnowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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Not trying to hijack the thread...but my ECU just recently thru the Code 09, and I've been having problems with my ignition so I removed my MSD and no code since then...?
Also could this cause the car to stall and not start back up?
MRX: How exactly is your MSD coil wired up? Mine is already wired, but just wanted to see if yours is the same as mine.
JayHittin Switches - Draggin XhaustAlways Under Construction
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the car went down for a week and i haven't gotten a chance to fix the code 9 but i think its gone. I'm still gonna check over it tho. And isn't there only one way to hook up the blaster coil? I mean if u hooked it up wrong or even differently then it shouldn't work. Its just hooked up to the positive and negative coil wires with a ballast resistor. Anyways, sometimes the car stalls unless i tap the throttle as the rpms are dropping when coming to a stop. If it stalls i crank for about 1-2 seconds, wait 4 seconds and then crank again. It starts right up if it doesn't crank on the first try. I'll get around to it soon and check back in thoKnowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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Originally posted by BustedLXHow long does it take for the car to start back up? How long do you have to wait?
MRX: Again sorry to hijack your thread...yea the coil shouldnt work if hooked up wrong, but I feel something ignition wise on my car isnt wired up correctly.
JayHittin Switches - Draggin XhaustAlways Under Construction
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no need to apologize its all ignition related. Maybe somethin is wrong internally with the dizzy? Have u opened it up yet to check for oil deposits? Cause it sounds like once the motor starts up maybe the ignitor is getting wet and when u let it sit the oil dries up/drips off. Just a thought. Busted's question was directed towards you i believe, i just chimed in with what was happening to me in hopes of helping you troubleshoot your problem. I was hoping our situation was similar but urs seems much worseKnowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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Well your problem immediately brings to mind four things that you should have checked. The main relay, fuel pump, ignitor, and coil.
Since your car died while running and then would not run again till it cooled down would incline me to look at your ignitior and coil first.
Take the distributor off the car and clean it out throughly... it might have the redish colored dust in it which is basically rust from the bearings and if that gets stuck on CYP sensor it code trigger the CEL. Test the coil if the coil checks out swap with a new ignitor... I think the ignitor is the problem.
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Thanks guys for the input...I havent been able to check it out yet since its sitting in a grocery store parking lot about 35 mins from my home...hopefully Im getting it towed back here tomorrow so I check what you guys said to.
Fuel Main Relay is good, also that shouldnt have anything to do with stalling the car...right? Pump, Ignitor, Coil I'll have to check out. If its not those then it has to be something in my wiring, when I wired up the external->internal->external coil I dunno.
JayHittin Switches - Draggin XhaustAlways Under Construction
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