Electrical failure

[slammed4th gen]

i just got done with my h22 and 5spd swap and everything was fine for a day. i was tucking my alarm back under my dash and something sparked for a second. now my car is having trouble starting, the radio cuts on and off, whenever i use my turn signals my clock fickers, and sometimes the gauges all lose power and drop to 0 like the car was off. sometimes whenever i start it up, the clock doesnt turn on and the gauges are all to 0. but when i give it gas ,it hesitates then dies. i try to start it back up, and it barely starts up and runs. also when im cruising around 3k and above everything seems to be lights up and working right , until i use the turn signals( things flicker, and cd player sounds like its skipping for that second. ive checked like all the fuse and they seem fine; battery and alt are fine; starter is fine.the only thing i could think of is the ignitor in the dizzy(internal dizzy, car is external). i thought it was my alarm because sometimes when i started the car up, the alarm would go off. i took out the alarm and the same things still happened.the car did have remote start and i had similar probs on my old motor( honda sed the dizzy leaked oil which caused a short in the ignitor), but i havent hooked the remote start back up. does anyone have any ideas? i checked the starter cables and alt and everything was tight. i took out my radio because it wouldnt even work driving around town and stopping( it would turn itself off then on). any help would be awesome. thanx

[darkslide_77]

wow....that sucks.........you got a long tedious job ahead of you.......if it sparked.....obviously something grounded out......or is still grounding out every time you use the directional......get back under there with a flashlight and a wiring diagram and check all the stuff in the area around the alarm.....should be able to see anything burnt(insulation) or wires touching each other or something they are not supposed to........

[slammed4th gen]

ive already looked at like everything under there and cant find anything..anyone else????????

[slammed4th gen]

hmm..dont kno what happened to this thread..but any other info or possible solutions?

[slammed4th gen]

bump

[darkslide_77]

did u check your fuse panel ??

[slammed4th gen]

yup, all the fuses are good

[h22sparkle]

dam yup something grounded out i believe homey take it to a shop and get it checked or else ou dont want yoru shit catchin fire and all that moeny invested will be gone. Get that shit checked immediately im in the same situation with my wipers not wanting to go off so something is grounded out.

[slammed4th gen]

alright the problems just got worse. the car wont stay running. it'll barely start up ( the starter isnt getting the 12 volts from the ignition) and then it'll bog down and die when i press the gas pedal. im thinkin that the ignition system isnt getting enough power. i just replaced the main relay and that didnt help. when i was checking the electric load detector system under the hood, i was only getting 8-9 volts where i should be getting battery. so right now im thinking it might be the ELD system, the ignition switch, or ecu. these are some weird problems. when the key is in the 1st turn, the radio works fine, but when the ignition is on the on position it turns off. does anyone have any idea or experience with this? i also had some really weird turn signal problems where when they were on , instead of blinking on the dash it made a squeek sound through the chime speaker. so im guessing whatever is affecting the starter is effecting the rest of my problems. so any help would be awesome , because right now i hate my car

[accordaffair]

I don't have all the answers, but I know there's a thing called an Electronic Load Detector that governs the cars use of electricity, balancing the cars electrical use. One example when you might notice it is when your turn signal is on and the other lights on your instrument panel dim slightly as it ticks.

The ELD system detects excess amperage draw (load) on the electrical circuits that govern the headlights, fuel injection, charging system, etc. The prime symptom of an electrical overload is a driveability problem usually when the engine is idling. Any trouble with the ELD system will set a code 20.

I should stop here to remind you these instructions refer to a cb7 ELD procedure. Considering you have an h22, I assume with its wiring and ECU, it would be a good idea to follow procedures for a prelude. Find a Haynes Manual for the year of your engines car.

CHECK
Disconnect the electrical connector from the ELD system and measure voltage between the black/yellow (+) wire and the black (-) wire (two outside terminals). There should be battery voltage. If no voltage is present, check the wiring harness back to the fuse box (under the dash) and the main fuse box (engine compartment).
Measure voltage with the ignition key ON (engine not running) between the green/red (+) terminal and the black (-) terminal. There should be 4.5-5.0 volts. If no voltage is present, check the ELD circuit between the engine and the alternator).
Reconnect the three-pin connector to the ELD system. With the ignition key ON (engine not running) and the headlights ON, measure the voltage on the green/red terminal (+) (middle wire). There should be approximately 2.0 volts.
If the test results are not correct, replace the ELD unit. This requires changing the entire main fuse box. The ELD unit is not available seperately.

----I was skimming through my Haynes manual when I remember coming across this. It sounded like it might be related to your problem. The following was taken entirely from a Haynes manual, I didn't pull that out of my butt.

-EDIT- I just saw your last post which I didn't read before posting, sorry. I see you are only drawing 8-9 volts from the ELD. As you may see in my post, it says "You should get battery voltage" however it doesn't say it's supposed to get 12 volts. Check the rest of those procedures and determine if the ELD is faulty.

[dwf137]

have you tried just removing the alarm all together? maybe something internal is all screwed up and messing with your car, since that's tied into practically everything...

[slammed4th gen]

yea i took out the alarm a while ago, and it changed nothing. yea ive already done the eld test and when i turn on my headlights, the voltage doesnt drop; it stays at about 4.59 volts. according the haynes pictures, when it should be getting battery voltage, it shows it as 12.11. yea i have a haynes and all and thats how i've been checking and came to the conclusion that it is the eld system, or something between the key in ignition to the eld system.

[slammed4th gen]

now it's throwing 4 codes
6- Coolant temp sensor( the sensor is supposed to have 5 volts; mine had 7)
10- Intake air temperature
20- ELD system
21- vtec solenoid valve

so now im thinking it's the eld system or the ecu

[slammed4th gen]

i disconnected the ignition switch at the fuse box place and it tested just fine. i also took out the backup fuse under the hood and put it back in and now it's only throwing a code 21( most of the time when my car threw random codes for no reason , i would just disconnect the battery and reconnect it and they would be gone) . sometimes the fuel pump is delayed or i have to try to crank it to get it to prime. so does anyone have any eperience with the ELD or maybe a bad ecu???

[h22sparkle]

stop second guessing and take that shit to a shop because right now your chasing a ghost imo.