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    #16
    werd........

    i think i went a little overboard when i said the cheapest shit i can find.........just whatever is handy........and im still on all original cooling system minus t-stat....think hoses might even be orig??......

    fact is, oem's want u to use their stuff because it makes them more money ......the aftermarket produces products that meet or exceed oem standards..........

    next thing you know, somebody will tell us that we shouldnt be using oil that doesnt have the service rating that is specified in our service manuals, and that we should change our oil at 7500 miles under normal driving conditions as it states there too......
    Last edited by darkslide_77; 01-19-2005, 09:05 PM. Reason: just cause

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      #17
      Originally posted by dwf137
      And you're wrong. ASTM(American Society for Testing Materials) does do testing on Anti-freeze look it up!! Make sure you get something that's approved.
      thanks, thats what i meant (instead of sae)

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        #18
        only SAE and ISO set recognized industry standards WORLWIDE. Every country has their own little testing group but Automobile manufacturers only recognize the two above groups. Also dealerships do not try to rape you with their antifreeze recomendations. In most cases their antifreeze is just as cheap as after market coolant in fact Honda Antifreeze is cheaper than Dex-cool.
        FS: BNIB MFactory FD $650, PM me.

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          #19
          My old f22a4 motor had about 200,000 on it same radator same pump same hoses. Actualy im using most of the hoses on my f22b swap. i have ran the cheepest shit i could find. It's still as cold a a witches tit. I only needed to replace heat return hose on my f22b. Now if you are running more than 200hp in your accord i do recomend you stay away from the cheep stuff. If your running turbo or nos i would recomend a radator upgrade and some good premixed stuff. But for around stock.... Just as long as you keep your system clean you will have no problems.

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            #20
            Originally posted by cb7-R
            only SAE and ISO set recognized industry standards WORLWIDE. Every country has their own little testing group but Automobile manufacturers only recognize the two above groups. Also dealerships do not try to rape you with their antifreeze recomendations. In most cases their antifreeze is just as cheap as after market coolant in fact Honda Antifreeze is cheaper than Dex-cool.
            Automobile manufacturers might only recognize those two groups, but ASTM does do thier testing to OEM standards.... the main thing that's different about OEM honda antifreeze is that it's free of silicates and nitrites, which can cause corrosion.
            --JDM F22A--

            JDM schmeDM, these lights are DIY-DM.

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              #21
              Originally posted by dwf137
              .... the main thing that's different about OEM honda antifreeze is that it's free of silicates and nitrites, which can cause corrosion.
              How does this happen??
              FS: BNIB MFactory FD $650, PM me.

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                #22
                so can we say regular old prestone coolant?
                hahahahah

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                  #23
                  And you are right. I was looking for antifreeze to put in my banshee after i stroked the engine to help keep it cooler the guys at advance auto said not to use the red antifreeze mixed with the green cause it would gel and make my engine over heat.If he keep that red in his block it's going to over heat and kill his motor.
                  Originally posted by cb9h23
                  before adding dex-cool the system MUST BE FLUSHED OF ALL GREEN ANTIFREEZE.
                  if you don't it will cause the mix to gel and get like 1/2 cool jello. which will cause major problems.

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                    #24
                    cb7-R is absolutely correct. Whoever says "OEM's just want you to buy their stuff" is complete B.S. I work on these cars every day, if you use cheap aftermarket coolant, or worse yet Dex-cool, your waterpump WILL leak, I don't care how old your car is. Also, unless you are the only person to own and work on your car, ever, there is no way you can know if your radiator, pump, or anything for that matter, is original. The Honda coolant is far superior to any other coolant for use in your Honda, just like how GM's are best only using Dex-cool. Honda coolant costs about the same as other coolants and its already pre-mixed 50/50 so all you have to do is pour it in.
                    00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

                    92 Honda Accord LX

                    95 Honda Civic CX

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                      #25
                      so if u were to do a COMPLETE drain and refill w/o having air bubbles how would u do it? i have an aftermarket radiator as the one i had cracked..

                      i just wanna know whast the best to drain and refill..
                      hahahahah

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by FishyMan
                        so if u were to do a COMPLETE drain and refill w/o having air bubbles how would u do it? i have an aftermarket radiator as the one i had cracked..

                        i just wanna know whast the best to drain and refill..
                        Obviously, drain the coolant out of the radiator, then refill it. After its completely full, loosen the 12mm bleed screw on the therm housing and let the coolant squirt out for about 10 seconds. Next, start the car, turn on the heater, and let it run until the cooling fans come on at least once. While the car is running, continue to top off the raditor.
                        00 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 4X4

                        92 Honda Accord LX

                        95 Honda Civic CX

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                          #27
                          oaky mrhonda......try this one.......i replaced my thermostat......refilled everything, let coolant cycle through........about a week later on my way to work, on a couple of sharp left hand turns, i notice my heat goes cold when i really pull through them........so does that sound like a bubble in the system?? been trying to figure out this one.....and another thing....i let it run with the rad cap off to get out bubbles, and the coolant level rises slowly and overflows.........my bro sez this is sign of head gasket seepage, that this is a hole in it going into the cylinder, and that the rising level is the compression being blown into the coolant system......does this sound right to anyone??

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