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Ignition Timing at 10 degrees. Cam timing looks dea on

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    Ignition Timing at 10 degrees. Cam timing looks dea on

    I have a feeling people are going to skip over this thread alot but I need timing gurus help on this one.

    First off the engine I am working with is a f22a block and f22b dohc head hybrid combination with h23 timing belt and poa waterpump. Now I was convinced that I had the timing DEAD ON when I lined up everything and had the motor idling. I wanted to double check and make sure so I got out the timing light. Turns out that it was 10 degrees with the distributor fully advanced. I mean these things were lined up to the T and it idles well. It revved also but not as fast as I wouldve liked and that why I threw the timing light on.

    So my question is, is it possible for a computer to retard the ignition by that much. Also does it sound like it is off by 1 tooth or 2 by it being at 10 degrees with dizzy fully advanced??
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    #2
    Speaking from experience, your situation implies that your physical timing is off enough that your ignition timing is not proper.

    I commend you on your effort though, not many would even think to break out the timing light.

    All said and done, both F22ax and JDM F20A DOHC, with physical timing correct, the distributors will line up in the middle of the top slot after setting ignition timing. If you are significantly off from this mark, it implies your physical timing is off or you have milled the head significantly to justify an adjustable cam gear.

    My suspicion is that your assortment of timing belt components are not proper for the physical timing to be set correctly. I have personally verified that for a JDM F20A DOHC, you need the PT2 water pump and a PT2 timing belt or the 88 Caravan 2.5L equivalent belt to set everything proper. No combination of F22ax, GSR or H23 components worked.

    Since the JDM F22B DOHC head is a PT2 and they share the same PT2 water pump. I am very familiar with the F22ax block, which should same layout as JDM F22B DOHC block. I would suspect you need to follow the same combination I found out to work properly.

    Good luck. Any more questions PM me.
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    Comment


      #3
      Thanx man, I was actually hoping on a reply from a guy like you. I think the difference between the POA/PT0 and the PT2 waterpump is like 1 tooth. I still have the old PT2 belt in good condition so Im gonna throw that one and try first before trying to buy a PT2 waterpump which last time I checked was out of stock because its JDM only.

      One more question, if it is the wrong belt or waterpump im using, wouldnt the timing go more off and off with every revolution?
      FOR SALE on cb7tuner only for now. Want it in the right hands
      Pm meX
      I do swaps in NYC/LI area: Hit me up for a quote.

      MY WHIP
      H22A Swap
      I'm 'THE STIG'

      Comment


        #4
        Check your PM.
        HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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          #5
          Originally posted by HondaFan81 View Post
          Speaking from experience, your situation implies that your physical timing is off enough that your ignition timing is not proper.

          I commend you on your effort though, not many would even think to break out the timing light.

          All said and done, both F22ax and JDM F20A DOHC, with physical timing correct, the distributors will line up in the middle of the top slot after setting ignition timing. If you are significantly off from this mark, it implies your physical timing is off or you have milled the head significantly to justify an adjustable cam gear.

          My suspicion is that your assortment of timing belt components are not proper for the physical timing to be set correctly. I have personally verified that for a JDM F20A DOHC, you need the PT2 water pump and a PT2 timing belt or the 88 Caravan 2.5L equivalent belt to set everything proper. No combination of F22ax, GSR or H23 components worked.

          Since the JDM F22B DOHC head is a PT2 and they share the same PT2 water pump. I am very familiar with the F22ax block, which should same layout as JDM F22B DOHC block. I would suspect you need to follow the same combination I found out to work properly.

          Good luck. Any more questions PM me.
          What do you mean by "No combination of F22ax, GSR or H23 components worked"? I am running the H23 with the F22 water pump and the engine seems to work fine. So you're saying its not fine at all to run this setup?
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          Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


          Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Mishakol129 View Post
            What do you mean by "No combination of F22ax, GSR or H23 components worked"? I am running the H23 with the F22 water pump and the engine seems to work fine. So you're saying its not fine at all to run this setup?
            You realize this thread is almost 4 years old right?
            And that the person your quoting hasn't been on here in nearly 3 months . . .


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