Milled head and timing belt tension

[CB7/KA8]

I recently got my head rebuilt with new valves, springs, valve job, Delta 272 cam, AEM cam gear, and milled to .030". I installed the head and it fired up the first time. The timing was dead on. I let it idle and I heard a flapping noise from the timing belt so I turned it off. The belt had some slack in it. I adjusted the adjustment bolts on the tensioner but it seems to be maxed out. It doesn't move at all. I was thinking that the problem is because I milled the head but I'm sure there are people that have milled their heads more than I milled mine and didn't have any problems with the timing belt. There has to be something that I'm missing. Like I said before, there is no way for the tensioner to move down any further. The 10mm bolt is at the very top of the slot that is attached to the tensioner. Tell me what I'm doing wrong. I've read every thread on here about timing belt tensioning and I've done everything. I turned the crank three teeth and tightened the adjustment bolts. That seemed to work but after I manually turned the engine the belt got back loose. Those of you with milled heads please chime in and let me know if you had any problems tensioning your timing belt. The balance shaft belt is tensioned fine.

[Darkcloud]

I had the same problem, you need to find a shorter belt. I never got around to it unfortunately.

[turbo90accord]

If you have a milled head you need to be degreeing your camshaft. This is the proper way to compensate for the milled head.

[wed3k]

i had a little tension with a .035 head but it jumped a tooth, lol.
.020 on my DD and no issues there.

[CB7/KA8]

If you have a milled head you need to be degreeing your camshaft. This is the proper way to compensate for the milled head.

Is there a way to degree my cam without paying $300 for a kit that I will only use once?

i had a little tension with a .035 head but it jumped a tooth, lol.
.020 on my DD and no issues there.

What did you do to fix yours? I'm thinking the guy at the machine shop must have taken more than .030" off of mine. I guess I'm going to have to look for a smaller belt. I don't even know where to start. LOL.

[ATS666]

If a shorter belt can not be found:

1 - Take off the adjuster and use a die grinder to make the slot longer. It's been awhile since I have done a t-belt on a F22a so I can't remember If there is enough material to make it worth while.

2 - Find a slightly larger OD idler bearing from another vehicle

[turbo90accord]

My head is milled and i had no issues tensioning it. You have to remember you can only turn the engine COUNTER CLOCKWISE. any clockwise motion while tensioning will cause it to get slacked.

I Printed my own degree wheel and made my own piston stop. total cost... bout 3 bucks.
But keep in mind I have degreed cams MANY times. for a first timer it is very advantageous to get a real degree wheel and piston stop.

[evil_demon_01]

I remember something similar being said once before.
For memory the fix was to use an H23 tensioner - But I'm not entirely sure if it was.
Anyone else remember?

[CB7/KA8]

If a shorter belt can not be found:

1 - Take off the adjuster and use a die grinder to make the slot longer. It's been awhile since I have done a t-belt on a F22a so I can't remember If there is enough material to make it worth while.

2 - Find a slightly larger OD idler bearing from another vehicle

I've been looking for larger belts all day. Its hard to find one that is bigger and have the correct teeth configuration and have a width at least somewhat close to the F22 (.95"). I think I'm going to try to find a bigger pulley as that may be easier. Thanks for your suggestions.

My head is milled and i had no issues tensioning it. You have to remember you can only turn the engine COUNTER CLOCKWISE. any clockwise motion while tensioning will cause it to get slacked.

Yeah I've been turning it counterclockwise. Maybe my tensioner is defective. Before I buy a larger one I'm going to put the old one back on to see what happens.

I remember something similar being said once before.
For memory the fix was to use an H23 tensioner - But I'm not entirely sure if it was.
Anyone else remember?

Thanks for your suggestion man but the H23 tensioner is the same as the F22.

[CB7/KA8]

Ok I found a timing belt that might work. Its from a 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L EX 4 cyl. The timing belt on the F22 is 42.37" long and .95" wide and has 113 teeth. The one from the 2000 Accord is 42.01 in. long and .95" wide and has 112 teeth. Its only $14 so its worth a try. I'll let you guys know the outcome.