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    #31
    Originally posted by steelbluesleepR View Post
    do you have any idea how far the seats can move in an impact? in my first car, i rolled it and landed backwards and the seat was bent at least 6" back from where it was and reclined several degrees. relying on the seat to protect you from a giant, bare steel bar in an impact is just ignorant. the only time you should ever be in a car with any kind of cage/roll bar is with a full harness and helmet.

    also, if it is just a 4-point roll-bar with a harness bar and you have a large enough front impact, the front of the car will crush in and that harness bar wont move. unless it is a full cage, you will be crushed by the dash. sure the cage can save you from a rollover, but it is still a horrible idea.
    I believe you are assuming that I am using the stock Honda accord seats sir. And you know what happens when you assume. Do you know personally how far aftermarket seats (from a quality company not ebay) move in a collision? probably not as far when mounted securely. http://www.merriam-webster.com/netdict/ignorance I am not unaware of how a seat operates nor do I refuse to become aware of any new technology that makes seating placement important. Example is that on some cars the computer KNOWS what position your seat is in and how much you weigh. It looks at that information and when in a collision deploys the airbag at different rates depending on what the set parameters. http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/saf...3/article.html Adding a roll bar to one of these vehicles is more complicated, but I doubt it's an absolute "don't."

    And also, making the point that if your in a front end collision you will be crushed between the dash and the bar is not very well thought out. If your car is hit (follow me here) and your dash pushes up against you that far that it pinches you into the seat what so ever, your pretty much fucked anyway. I've personally seen my friends 1992 honda accord get into a head on collision with a Chevy Suburban and the wind shield didn't even crack. air bags went off and over half of the engine bay was missing, but there was NO deformation of the cab itself.


    EDIT. sorry guys, I had to...
    Last edited by WilliamW; 02-03-2010, 08:59 PM.
    Been a long time. Still alive...

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      #32
      Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
      I believe you are assuming that I am using the stock Honda accord seats sir. And you know what happens when you assume. Do you know personally how far aftermarket seats (from a quality company not ebay) move in a collision? probably not as far when mounted securely.
      no matter how you mount your seats, its 4 bolts to the floor.

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        #33
        Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe View Post
        no matter how you mount your seats, its 4 bolts to the floor.
        So your saying all 4 bolts will break off and your seat will be no longer attached at all?
        Been a long time. Still alive...

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          #34
          Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe View Post
          idk, maybe it has something to do with the giant metal plate in front of it haha.

          no heat was anywhere near the front of the car. it will be when i do my front bars and in that case, it will all get covered.
          it is possible to fry an ecu with the amount of voltage flowing through your chassis when welding.

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            #35
            Originally posted by turbo90accord View Post
            it is possible to fry an ecu with the amount of voltage flowing through your chassis when welding.
            didnt know that actually, thanks

            Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
            So your saying all 4 bolts will break off and your seat will be no longer attached at all?
            im saying aftermarket seats bolt in the same way as oem seats. its not any safer

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              #36
              Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
              I believe you are assuming that I am using the stock Honda accord seats sir.
              i just assumed you meant stock seats when you suggested "adjusting the headrests"

              Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
              But a roll bar shouldn't be anywhere near your head. Plus the head rests should be adjusted properly to cushion any rear impact to stop your head from going into the back seats.

              Originally posted by Accord R33 View Post
              That's not my point. the point was that many weld in cages do the EXACT same thing, the "weld" doesn't help anything from popping through the floorboards.
              of course if it isnt boxed properly it will tear through. a properly built weld-in cage will be fully boxed in to the strongest points of the car.

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                #37
                ^Ok, yeah, I can see that. I didn't mean to come off so harsh. I still believe that proper fabrication and installation is what's going to make it safe or not.

                Lets say you have a Recaro seat, and you place your seat back to the furthest position you would ever drive with. I would just make sure that the bar is clear of your head, then put the seat back to it's original position and you should have quite a buffer if anything did move.
                Been a long time. Still alive...

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
                  ^Ok, yeah, I can see that. I didn't mean to come off so harsh. I still believe that proper fabrication and installation is what's going to make it safe or not.

                  Lets say you have a Recaro seat, and you place your seat back to the furthest position you would ever drive with. I would just make sure that the bar is clear of your head, then put the seat back to it's original position and you should have quite a buffer if anything did move.
                  my cage sits as far back as it could go and my seats hit it if i slide them all the way back. they would go further if the cage wasnt there. theyre prelude seats on accord rails, for now.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe View Post
                    had it pre bent to fit the cb. i ended up cutting and notching most of the bars except for the main hoop and harness bar. just so it would fit the way i wanted it to
                    i wondered because i have heard of people using civic pre bent roll bars in cb's....and just modding them to fit right...
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                      #40
                      Originally posted by T04ECB7 View Post
                      i wondered because i have heard of people using civic pre bent roll bars in cb's....and just modding them to fit right...
                      the main hoop from any honda should work, dont quote me on that but you have so much room to make it work there. the other bars can just be cut and notched to fit

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
                        ^Ok, yeah, I can see that. I didn't mean to come off so harsh. I still believe that proper fabrication and installation is what's going to make it safe or not.

                        Lets say you have a Recaro seat, and you place your seat back to the furthest position you would ever drive with. I would just make sure that the bar is clear of your head, then put the seat back to it's original position and you should have quite a buffer if anything did move.
                        if you want to talk proper fabrication, take a look at this article:
                        http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...-part-one.aspx

                        Click for my Member's Ride Thread
                        Originally posted by Stephen Fry
                        'It's now very common to hear people say, "I'm rather offended by that", as if that gives them certain rights. It's no more than a whine. It has no meaning, it has no purpose, it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. "I'm offended by that." Well, so fucking what?' —Stephen Fry
                        Eye Level Media - Commercial & Automotive Photography: www.EyeLevelSTL.com

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                          #42
                          That's a bit nuts.

                          He probably spent 5-10 grand on the cage alone.

                          There was a shop near me called Mid Coast Performance and I asked them about a roll bar and a roll cage about a year ago before I blew up my car, they quoted me at 1100-1700 for a roll bar and 2400-3 something for a full roll cage. All their stuff was TIG welded as well.

                          A good roll (anything) isn't cheap.
                          Been a long time. Still alive...

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by WilliamW View Post
                            That's a bit nuts.

                            He probably spent 5-10 grand on the cage alone.

                            There was a shop near me called Mid Coast Performance and I asked them about a roll bar and a roll cage about a year ago before I blew up my car, they quoted me at 1100-1700 for a roll bar and 2400-3 something for a full roll cage. All their stuff was TIG welded as well.

                            A good roll (anything) isn't cheap.
                            I agree..sort of.

                            If you know someone that can weld then your good to go. If you think about it..the common roll bar with harness bar will cost about 100 bucks in material...maybe more depending on what your going to do. the average welder can get the job done in a day. then all you have to do is put it in and weld. And yes i am using TIG welds.

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                              #44
                              Furthermore i think its overpriced..all it is is bars...thats it. But only a small percentage of people can do it and have the time for it thats why they cost so much..its a skill

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by kantkillkeenan View Post
                                Furthermore i think its overpriced..all it is is bars...thats it.
                                false. they are precisely bent and positioned bars and their intersections are precisely designed to transfer crushing force rather than buckling. the majority of cage work is integrating it correctly into the car otherwise it will just fail and tear through the bottom like the rollbar in that mustang did.

                                sure you could just roughly notch some pipe and weld it anywhere, but then you would be a redneck. you are correct, they charge so much because it is a skill, but that skill takes time. they charge by the skilled hour.

                                Click for my Member's Ride Thread
                                Originally posted by Stephen Fry
                                'It's now very common to hear people say, "I'm rather offended by that", as if that gives them certain rights. It's no more than a whine. It has no meaning, it has no purpose, it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. "I'm offended by that." Well, so fucking what?' —Stephen Fry
                                Eye Level Media - Commercial & Automotive Photography: www.EyeLevelSTL.com

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