How do I t/s the rear defrost

[Bent]

my rear defrost doesn't clear the rear window.
So far, I can confirm that the relay picks up (I hear it click when I push the defrost button - and the light on the button lights)
When I check with a voltmeter on either side of the window where the defrost supply wires terminate on the defrost grid, I activate the defroster I see 12.5v (key on, engine off) to 14v (engine running/charging).
I'm not sure if I have a grid-break or if I have a relay problem and am jut reading the relay pick-up voltage and not the actual output voltage. What should the grid resistance be from terminal to terminal?

[Hondateck2010]

my rear defrost doesn't clear the rear window.
So far, I can confirm that the relay picks up (I hear it click when I push the defrost button - and the light on the button lights)
When I check with a voltmeter on either side of the window where the defrost supply wires terminate on the defrost grid, I activate the defroster I see 12.5v (key on, engine off) to 14v (engine running/charging).
I'm not sure if I have a grid-break or if I have a relay problem and am jut reading the relay pick-up voltage and not the actual output voltage. What should the grid resistance be from terminal to terminal?

im having somewhat of the same problem. Mines goes on but only 3 work. when I look closer you can see the lines that are shot. im just looking for a place that fixs this

Might need to get a new back window

[visualpoet]

Look for breaks in the lines, If you find them, most parts stores sell a tube of stuff to fix them. If you mask off and are delicate, you'll never see the repairs, if you just glob it on, it'll catch your eye everytime.

[dannyd]

i thought i was the only one with this problem..

[Bent]

I took the car into the sunlight, and put my glasses on to get a good look, and discovered the problem is much worse than I though - a repair kit won't fix this.

The window had a dark tint on it when the previous owner had it (My Dad ) He pealed off the tint because he didn't like it, he said it was way too dark.

What I was looking at when trying to find the breaks in the gris wasn't the grid, but the meagre remains of the adhesive that held the grid onto the window... He literally pealed 100% of the conductive portion of the grid off.

I can't repair this, I'll need a complete new rear window.
A quote from the body shop came in kinda high - They want 680 to supply and install a new window.

Crap

[wherm]

You should go to a glass company and get a quote. A lot of times body shops will quote you for an OEM glass. Also, sometimes the body shops sublet the glass work to an outside glass company anyhow, then they mark it up to make a profit for themselves.

Try contacting someone like Auto Glass Specialists and talk to them about what options they have for replacement glass. You could possibly even get a used window from the junkyard and just pay them to install it.

[Bent]

I'm certainly going to try everything else prior to dumping almost 700 beans for a window.
This car needs too many other things to get into the shape I want it in, and I'm already at odds with the Dept. of Domestic Affairs as to what it's going to cost.

I'll call the glass companies.

[cp[mike]]

razorblade the remainder off, and take a look at this :

http://www.frostfighter.com/prt26STK.htm -- on this page they sell just the elements, without the switch and wiring.

we had a similar kit installed on my old corolla (since it didnt come with one stock) and it worked like a charm, and its cheap too.

[Bent]

I guess I have nothig to lose by trying.
I'll look into it - thanks a million.

[xkjnboix]

ya i have the same issue as the OP but i didnt inspect my lines b4 tint. imao go check it with a test light. i can hear my relay click tho but doesnt necessarily mean its good and perfect working condition.

[Bent]

I found one for 40 bucks if I remove it, or 80 if he removes it... he assures me the defrost grid is intact. I'm gonna let him remove it.

Can anyone confirm what the resistance of a good grid should be so I can easily confirm this one with a ohmmeter prior to taking it?

[93accdpj]

Got a baseball? Whats your insurance deductibel? Can you say "DAMN KIDS!!" ?

[Bent]

That has crossed my mind to but I'm likely to have my insurer write the car off rather than opt to repair it..

[93accdpj]

The bad thing is that the body shop that quoted you $680, gets that glass for like $80. Ten bucks un uretane.The rest is labor and profit. Then when they are done you will have a leak in your trunk, beacause the wont reseal around the lower moulding clips. Glass company may give a better price, and you cant beat a buddy that work at the glass company that needs some side money. My windshield job cost me 85 bucks

[bcjammerx]

volt meters read voltage differential...meaning...if you have 12 volts going through a wire and you put your voltmeter
here and here
---|---------|------------
it should read zero

if there is an open in between those two points, you will read 12v as there is 12 volts on one lead, and 0 on the other...12 voltage difference. If there is a 2 volt load in between, it'll read 10v.

what you do is place your leads on the middle lines on the opposite ends you should get 12v as the middle lines are like long resistors...I am not sure of that reading...but the key to this test is a steady voltage drop increase from one side to the other.

You should get a steady voltage drop from left to right...as in...one lead on the right, and moving the other lead to the left, you should get a steady increase in the reading (voltage drop)

So...if you bring them together and you get a sudden spike in drop...then you've found the break.

My top three and bottom two do not work...I should do a diy on this so I can make sure:
1. my voltage readings I posted are accurate...and
2. to show how to diagnose and fix it.

Now this is all from memory...but it's five year old memory...I haven't actually performed this test yet, never had to...but I think I will when I get home.