It's not a major issue, but my idle drops a tiny bit when i turn my headlights on. Is my alternator going bad? I can get one off of a CD for free if it is. Or if it's wiring, i can check all the alternator's connections.
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bogging down when headlights are on
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I had that same problem and I found a ground wire loose in the engine... It's just a start to look.
And you check with a FLUKE meter to check the charging system
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View Poststronger base idle will allow IACV to recover when engine under load quicker....it's probably doing a majority of the compensation right now.
If you removed your IACV electrical connector, your base idle is probably lower than 600 RPM or probably motor dies.
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to add a little, it idles fine at fast idle, fine at initial drop to "normal idle" usually, but when i put it into gear, it will either drop, or at the first stop after that. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt. And by low, i mean LOOOOOOOOW. One time last summer it stalled and scared the shit out of me, it had to have been idling at 1rpm. I have a worn out dogbone which makes it seem worse than it is. It never did that again, and doesnt stall, it just drops kinda low, then comes back up somewhat but still about 1-200rpm lower than it should be.Cars:
91 Accord LX Sedan (sold)
98 Accord LX Sedan
95 Eagle Talon TSI AWD (E3 16G, PTE 780cc, Godspeed FMIC)
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Originally posted by bmxfelon420 View Poston high idle i unplug the iacv? (idk which one is which, i think i got the right one) and it goes down a bit but doesnt shut off. but if i unplug it on normal idle it dies.
The motor high idles due to FITV (fast idle thermo valve), when fully warmed up, it will close, lowering idle. Then, you are left with your IACV control. If you remove the connector then and it dies, like you said....that means your base idle is too low.
Follow instructions on the DIY and fix your problem.Last edited by HondaFan81; 11-17-2009, 10:59 AM.
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