Originally posted by NAiL05
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Rear Motor Mount Solenoid
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My 92 had some liquid coming out the bottom end of the mount when I pulled it out. then the whole center fell apart.
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Originally posted by johnl View PostMust be a solenoid that operates a valve that allows / dissallows vaccum to the mount...? Is the idea to cause the mount to momentarily become even softer as the trans transitions from P or N to R or D (or between D and R etc)? ...Last edited by James Matteu; 09-19-2009, 10:25 AM.1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuYou have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."
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Originally posted by James Matteu View PostCorrect, the solenoid allows / disallows vaccum to the mount's actuator diaphram. The idea is to isolate Chamber A from Chamber B when RPMs are above 3000. Keep in mind that Chamber B is the larger chamber at the bottom and the valve is normally closed; the diaphram is sprung to assist in valve closure. Vaccum is applied in low RPMs (below 3000) which opens the valve and allows fluid to be shared by the two chambers (isobaric). As I mentioned before, all this is controlled by the TCM and has nothing to do with transitions from Park to Nuetral, Reverse, Drive, etc.; only RPMs.
The only problem is I have changed the rear mount and the solenoid that hooks up to it. My front mount and side mounts are changed too
But when I change into reverse you can hear a metal touching metal kinda noise.
The engine gives a nice jump too when it's warmed up and changing from reverse to drive. or vice.
Also when I come to a stop I do hear a popping noise or a CLICK kinda noise from the front end. I heard that might be the solenoid not working either.
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Originally posted by Reignstarz View Post...I have changed the rear mount and the solenoid that hooks up to it...
I replaced the rear mount as well. As I always do, I tested the new unit before installation; buying a defective unit is not unheard of. I found my brand new (and expensive IMHO) came with a poorly manufactured actuator diaphram, it leaked. I could not return it for exchange since it was the only one at the store, all other stores had none in stock, and I needed it immediatly. I swapped the diaphram from the old mount to the new. I re-tested the unit and then installed it.
Please note in my previous post that I said if you come up with nothing, you should re-test everything. Same goes with new parts. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is above scrutiny. Check those new parts, check those wires, check that vaccum.
Keep a cool head and be objective, let us know what happens.1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuYou have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."
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Originally posted by Reignstarz View PostBut when I change into reverse you can hear a metal touching metal kinda noise.
Originally posted by Reignstarz View PostThe engine gives a nice jump too when it's warmed up and changing from reverse to drive. or vice.Last edited by johnl; 09-20-2009, 01:53 AM.Regards from Oz,
John.
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Originally posted by CBAccordA4 View PostYeh, its a vacuum actuated solenoid I believeLast edited by johnl; 09-20-2009, 01:56 AM.Regards from Oz,
John.
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Originally posted by James Matteu View PostPlease re-read my previous post. There is more to that system than the mount and the solenoid. You need to verify there is vaccum coming from the intake manifold; vaccum leaks are not unheard of. You need to verify the connection between the solenoid and the TCM is a good one.
I replaced the rear mount as well. As I always do, I tested the new unit before installation; buying a defective unit is not unheard of. I found my brand new (and expensive IMHO) came with a poorly manufactured actuator diaphram, it leaked. I could not return it for exchange since it was the only one at the store, all other stores had none in stock, and I needed it immediatly. I swapped the diaphram from the old mount to the new. I re-tested the unit and then installed it.
Please note in my previous post that I said if you come up with nothing, you should re-test everything. Same goes with new parts. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is above scrutiny. Check those new parts, check those wires, check that vaccum.
Keep a cool head and be objective, let us know what happens.
I checked if there was power going to the connector that goes to the solenoid and there was. There wasn't a ground so I rewired the ground and checked once again for power and a ground and everything was okay. But it did not fix my problem.
should there be a vacuum going TO THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT as well?
Maybe ill make a video to show you what it's doing but basically the engine moves backwards then forwards. As if the front motor mount is non existent.
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Originally posted by Reignstarz View Postshould there be a vacuum going TO THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT as well?
Connect a multimeter to the solenoid connection (ground wire to multimeter (+) and multimeter (-) to chassis), and check for ground at idle; i.e. set it to Ohms Resistance. Manipulate the throttle to raise the RPMs and see if the meter goes from 0 Ohms (at idle) to infinite Ohms (above idle).
Your solenoid could be bad like the Helms indicates. But I think you could have a bad connection between the solenoid and the TCM, or the TCM could be failing to properly ground the solenoid, or the TCM could be missing RPM data (does your TCM shift hard, do you have a flashing D4 light?), or etc.
Run your test and let us know what happens.Last edited by James Matteu; 09-20-2009, 12:18 PM.1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuYou have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."
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