Ok I have been throwing a code 9 for about a month now. It just randomly has a skip here and there. Its a new eBay dizzy I might ad and its already dying. Well last night it started acting REALLY slutty. My baby was being a straight up whore and started to die on me. I shut her off crank it back up and ran just fine afterwards. Today I get to riding around and all of a sudden BAM it dies on me and wont start. Im not out of gas and it wants to crank up so bad but it just cant get spark. I know for a fact it has REALLY good compression no broke timing belt. But right before it died it backfired twice REALLY loud and the tach started jumping around like it was on crack. And also last night my idle screw fell out and now it just idles at 2k. I know for a fact the idle screw falling out wouldnt cause it to act like this. But the real question is will the CPS cause it to finally die like this. Im hoping the dizzy didnt decide to take a bigger shit than I thought!
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Cylinder Position Sensor and idle screw
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i bought a ebay distributor and it had the exact problem until i restarted the car and then after a while a CEL for cylinder position would come back on and the car would drive like in a limp mode.
i got another distributor and the problem went away. lemme guess, you got the dizzy from street imports? they wouldnt warranty my shit either, kept giving me the run around.
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostIf you research how your CPS works and the other sensors in your dizzy, you will realize why it can cause the problems you described. They are key to starting your motor and keep it running properly. If they go bad, you will have issues.
I myself would not dream of replacing a part where I did not understand completely why it had failed.
I still have my original distributor, and if I have any trouble in the future I already have a spare Igniter Unit and Ignition Coil sitting in my closet. I see the distributor as nothing more than a shaft sitting in a cup with a few integrated circuits surrounding it. Perhaps my perspective is skewed, there isn't much to my distributor:
The image above is my C27A4's distributor, I animated it.1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuYou have to consider the results of your test in an objective manner, or as the country folk like to say, "son, you gotta be smarter than what you're workin' with."
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Originally posted by James Matteu View PostI have not yet met anyone on this site that likes the idea of running a full diagnostic on their distributor and changing individual components. Everyone seems content to buy a new distributor and replace the old. The OP started by saying he has a "new eBay dizzy", but failed to explain why the last distributor was removed.
I myself would not dream of replacing a part where I did not understand completely why it had failed.
I still have my original distributor, and if I have any trouble in the future I already have a spare Igniter Unit and Ignition Coil sitting in my closet. I see the distributor as nothing more than a shaft sitting in a cup with a few integrated circuits surrounding it. Perhaps my perspective is skewed, there isn't much to my distributor:
The image above is my C27A4's distributor, I animated it.
People just want to be spood fed. If you have time to post, you have time to search. By the time you wait for a helpful response, you could have found your own answer. That is what I don't understand. I know because I do it all the time. To be honest, most questions I have, people on this forum can't answer anyways. I just have learned more and that's how the cookie crumbles. If I don't know something, I can figure it out with the base knowledge I have. I'd like to see more people do that.
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