CV axle replacement

[93F22A6]

Ok well my right side inner cv boot torn completly about a week or so ago. Since it is just easier to go ahead and get a new cv axle, thats what I'm going to do. No use and sticking the old one back in with a new boot when I can get a new one for 60 bucks. Anyways I was wondering if yall had any tips for me. Also give your hardness rating for a skilled person. That and est time to do the replacement.

[bcjammerx]

if you don't have a lift it'll be a little tougher.

The hardest part is getting the axle out of the tranny cause sometimes it'll stick.

I have a long pry bar that I put one end on the axle by the tranny, then wack the other end of the pry bar with a hammer..but they make a "special" tool for just that...you can get one at autozone and you'll get your money back when you return it.

Other then that, you'll take the lower ball joint off I believe so you can swing the knuckle out enough to get the axle out of the hub...don't fully remove the knuckle...not needed

you'll need a 36mm deep socket for the axle nut and some small flat chizzles to un-dimple the axle nut. And a big cheater pipe...those nuts are tight.

and a 120 foot pound torque wrench.

honestly most of the work is getting the axle out of the hub..after that it isn't to bad.


when you put the axle in, slide it in gently, then lightly tap it in to get past the snap ring on the end of the axle that goes into the tranny. Put the axle in the hub, and you can ... easily ... use the hub to kinda push the axle in..you'll have to knock it in a bit actually..don't get carried away or
1. you could damage the joint...not likely
2. you could pull the joint apart...yes likely

[93F22A6]

I hope I have a 36mm socket. I have an impact so it should'nt be a problem. Which joint are you talking about tearing?

[wed3k]

youre not tearing the joint but the inner joint can seperate on you. the outer joint cant seperate because i think it is called a Rheppa joint. (pronounced "sheppa")

[93F22A6]

I thought he was talking about the ball joints. But with the cv that makes sense. Also will any fluid leak out. I thought about doing a fluid change on the tranny but afraid if I do problems might occur. Whats yals view on this? That and what fluid is best. (don't just say syn., I want brand and weight.)

[bcjammerx]

DO NOT USE an impact on the axle nut...not with the bearing being right there.

plus, make sure you un-dimple the nut first

use a cheater pipe....and all your weight...it'll work.


and I didn't say you'd tear the boot I said you could pull the joint apart. The joint slides in an and out on each end (on the outside it goes in and out and twists) You won't need to pull it out that much to do the method I described...but I've seen it done.

[93F22A6]

Oh well glad you said something. Prob end up using a little bit of heat also to crakc the bitch loose. FOr some reason I think that nut is going to be a major pain in my ass.

[EJX_Michael]

I thought he was talking about the ball joints. But with the cv that makes sense. Also will any fluid leak out. I thought about doing a fluid change on the tranny but afraid if I do problems might occur. Whats yals view on this? That and what fluid is best. (don't just say syn., I want brand and weight.)

I replaced both my axles and had no fluid leakage at all... The only stuff was the grease from the boots.

For a skilled person, maybe 6/10 and 1-2 hours.

I wouldn't use heat on it either. Not worth the risk of possibly screwing anything up. A 36 mm on a breaker bar with some type of tubing will get it.

[bcjammerx]

again...only if you un-dimple the axle nut...it locks it in place.

Use a small flat chizzle...be carefull to not break your chizzle off in there.

If you have a new nut (which you should) you can just sorta...cut that dimple out of the old one, and then punch a dimple into the new one. There is a flat spot on the axle where you punch the new dimple in.

But if you were to re-use that nut you would have to carefully bend the metal back so when you unscrew it you don't booger the threads up.

[YK86]

About the fluid leaking out....if you mean the tranny fluid, AT's won't leak so you don't need to drain before. The MT's will so those need to be drained first.

As for fluid, I use Honda ATF and MTF. With MT's you can use regular 10W30 if you like (any brand name) but the AT's need the oem Honda ATF to shift smoothly.

[bcjammerx]

yes a little manual tranny fluid can leak out...good time to replace those axle seals and d&f the tranny!

[93F22A6]

Trans Fluid

Ok guys what fluid should I use. I looked in the sticky and it said this - API SF or SG grade motor oil with a weight of 10W-30 or 10W-40. That to me just seems a little thin for gear oil in a trans.

[wed3k]

use honda MTF.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Honda Mtf!

I agree with wed3k ONLY use Honda MTF!

oh and if you don't have a 36mm look for a 1.5" they are almost the same size, and it will work.

I did this a few weeks ago, good luck to you!

[batever]

Personally, I have only ever used 10w40 oil in my manual transmission like the owner's manual says. And it has worked fine. Although if Honda has a MTF fluid now I'm not averse to using it. But really, I went 210Kmiles on 10w40 in my manual tranny and it's still fine.

Autozone will "rent" you a 36mm socket. (just don't keep yours forever like I did so now I own it!).

I use a 4 foot long 1 inch internal diameter steel gas pipe that the local hardware store cut for me that fits over one of my 1/2 inch breaker bars.

The axle nut is *no trouble* whatsoever at all to move using this setup. No heat, no impact tools, nothing else required. Remember, a 100 pound strong push on a 4 ft bar is 400 ft lbs of torque. Truthfully, I didn't need to use anywhere near 100 pounds of force to get that nut off, maybe like 60 or 70 lbs worth.. And if I needed too, I could easily apply near 800 lbs of force to it with my body weight (carefully of course). but if you need that much,(and you won't) stop and use some pb blast first.

If the axle nut is staked too securely to get into it with a chisel, just turn the nut a tiny bit counterclockwise, enought to knock the staked part against the slotted edge of the axle end and unbend that part. . Then turn the newly unbent part clockwise back again to where it started and you will have created a space to get your chisel into. And then you can bend the rest of the staked portion out using blows on your chisel or screwdriver. I used the screwdriver to pry a bit too (carefully so as not to break the tip).

If you don't have a chisel to unstake the axle nut, a narrowish flat bladed screwdriver can work (I ground mine down on the pavement to sharpen and narrow it).

Once you get your old axle out, you can play with the inner joint a little and see how it works and what is meant by avoiding separating the inner joint.

Also, when you are putting the new axle in, tie up the outer end of the axle with a rope so it doesn't hang off the inner joint when you are putting it in. And line up the axle sections as close to straight as possible when inserting it into the tranny, and especially so if you are tapping on the end of it to finish inserting it after it's lined up and correctly started.
(Actually, next time I do one I'm going to try tightening a big hose clamp around the inner joint shell with some wire loops off of it so I can use those to help push the joint in by the outer shell of it without exerting any force on the inner and outer joints).


Getting the tranny fluid back in the manual transmission can be tricky. I jacked the whole car up on 4 jackstands so it was level, then used a fluid transfer pump ($12.00 from Autozone) to pump the fluid into the transmission filler hole through a hose. Stopping when the fluid started to run out. This worked great and I recommend the investment. You could do a similar thing with a length of 3/8 inch internal diameter hose and a funnel I guess, which is how I've done it before. The pump works a lot easier and is easier to set up though.

Jacking the car up on 4 stands is ideal to get the absolute correct fluid level in the transmission case, but you could get by on leaving the front raised while you fill it, it won't make a huge difference in my estimation.

good luck, it's not a super hard job at all if you've got an afternoon or half of one to spare.