Found a thread that says it should take 7 qts, so I'm 6/7ths of the way there. I hope that's it. Damn coolant doesn't want to work its way through. When I did it after my h22 swap, it gobble the coolant right up. Oh well. We'll see.
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OK. Got the radiator filled up (bleeder screw doesn't work very well due to the h22 cocking back towards the firewall, but it's full now). I idled it until it got warm...then it started smoking a little, but couldn't really see where. I think it was some coolant that overflow from the neck down the radiator. Don't know, but the gauge showed the temp in the normal range. I shut it off due to the smoking, which wasn't too bad, and when I turned the ignition off, the fan turned on. I turned the ignition back to the on position, and it turned off. What now?Comment
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my car is doing this right now, ill get on it tomorrow and let you know the solution... im thinking that because the thermostat isnt opening it is fooling the car into thinking it isnt as hot as it is.Originally posted by CB7 Fanatic View Post
then when you shut it off, it realizes how hot it is and the fan kicks on.
idk if that makes any tech sense as im not the best, but we will see.
but it is doing the no fan when on and fan when off, and it gets hotter than a mofo fo'sho.
smoke tires, not drugs.Comment
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I'm not the most knowledgeable person either, but I don't think the fan has anything to do with the t-stat opening or not. I think the fan switch just measures the temp of the coolant going by it and turns on the fan if necessary. Problem is, even though the car is hot, it doesn't turn on until I turn off the ignition. Definitely sounds like a switch problem, but mine is pretty damn new (3,000 mile old Mugen switch and t-stat) and I'm not sure how people test them. Supposedly you put the switch in some hot water, and when it gets to around 200 degrees or something like that, you should have continuity. I guess I'd have to rig something up to suspend it in water and have my multimeter ready. I hate to have to drain the antifreeze again because it's a pain in the a$$ to recycle it. Since it was fine until I did my wire tuck, I have a feeling it has to do with wiring, although I cut and extended only one wire at a time, so I know I didn't cross any wires.Comment
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You're fine, probably.Originally posted by CB7 Fanatic View Post
When the engine is running the water pump circulates the coolant thru the engine, so the fan probably wouldn't need to run (hot coolant is being actively evacuated/circulated and being replaced by by cooler coolant by the w.p),
Turn the engine off and the w.p. stops circulating coolant. REsidual heat from the engine combustion heats up the coolant in the engine etc to above 196F or wherever the thermostat actuates the switch, and the car turns the fan on the radiator on to cool the coolant in the radiator. When the engine is off and the rad. fan is on, it the newly cooled coolant in the rad. begins a passively driven (actually, a heat gradient-driven) circulation back up into the engine, forcing hotter coolant out of the engine and into the radiator, and on and on.
When you turned the car back on, the w.p. started actively circulating the coolant and probably that caused the thermostat to gell up again and stop the fan.
I'd say if the temp gauge is staying in the normal heat range while you're running the car, it's probably working fine at this point.Last edited by batever; 06-03-2009, 05:41 PM.Comment
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In that instance, it was in the normal range, but when I drive the car around the block, it gets real hot. The problem is that the fan isn't turning on at all when the ignition is on.Comment
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I swapped cooling fan relays...and that's not the problem (which is what the service manual said it was).Comment
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Originally posted by CB7 Fanatic View Post
Oh. Ok I'm drawing a blank. Maybe the thing to ask is "what is different with the ignition is on vs off--and how might that affect the fan operation". Although I'm currently not coming up with anything.Comment
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did you try the fan timer underdash by fuse box.Comment
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That says that the timer is working perfectly.Originally posted by CB7 Fanatic View Post
I'm fighting fan issues right now, watching for help on here. Back to it for me - trying to finish rewiring my A/C harness.Officially "hilarious mad sarcastic"! Thanks CB74christ for the recognition of my work.Comment
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Right. The fan stays on for 2 minutes (or whatever the predetermined period of time is) so I assumed the timer was ok. This is bumming me out as this is all that's keeping me from putting all the body panels back on and driving the damn thing again!Originally posted by lost_accord View PostComment
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I don't like wire tucks for this reason and it becoming more problematic to diagnose electrical problems afterwards.
The fact your radiator fan kicks on when ignition is off tells me atleast this part of your fan timer works, so does the radiator fan relay and so does your radiator fan thermoswitch. However, there is another portion of the fan timer that works when the ignition is on and that portion does not seem to work properly. Assuming your wiring is correct, I would replace the fan timer. If this does not work, then you did wire something improperly.Last edited by HondaFan81; 06-05-2009, 12:03 AM.Comment
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I removed the thermoswitch to test it and found that it is in fact working correctly. How do you test the fan timer? I don't want to buy it only to find out that wasn't it.Comment
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Where is the fan timer located? The service manual shows it under the drivers side of the dash, but I don't see it. This is the last component for me to test. Everything else checks out okay. Can someone take picture or tell me what I'm looking for?Comment
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