Castrol or Valvoline

[Juan4DCB7]

^^^^^^^HAHAHAHAHAHAHA....Greatest EVAR!!!

not that funny probably becasue i have a ford and also ford is my favorite car company

[owequitit]

Been running GTX for hundreds of thousands of miles now, with never a problem. Have also run Syntec and had no issues. All engines are run hard and healthy by measurement.

I run Royal Purple in the H22 just because of the cam wear issue, and I plan on ultimately building the engine, so I wanted to try it out.

I have NEVER had a problem with castrol making the engine brown. Quite the opposite in fact. The original owners of my car must have used Pennzoil, becuase while the was no buildup anywhere, the engine was bronze. After a few Castrol oil changes, it was back to looking new. To some degree ALL conventional oils will bronze over time, so if you keep them changed regularly, you shouldn't have any trouble.

[bcjammerx]

mobil1 full synthetic never cared for gastro or valves-will-lean

you should know that mobile 1 synthetic is NOT actually synthetic. AND mobile 1 does NOT do as well as other synthetics in tests. Castrol and valvoline are VERY good oils both conventional and synthetic and ARE superior to mobile one...please research

I have NEVER had a problem with castrol making the engine brown. Quite the opposite in fact.

as I stated earlier...toyota began using castrol after the "sludge motor" issues (mid-late 90's v6, some 4cyl) and castrol markets and "anti-sludge" oil as well.
not sure how it differs (if at all) from their regular oil. Castrol is good stuff.

I used to run valvoline conventional and when I switched to castrol conventional my oil was less black and more brown at oil change time.

NOTE: blackness of oil is not supposed to mean anything...but going from black to brown with same brand filters and same change frequency...makes a diff to me.

No comment on color of synthetics as I only have run mobile 1 and castrol syntec.

after seeing bearing tests (which are far from 100% conclusive yet still pretty damn interesting) and finding out that mobile 1 synthetic is NOT true synthetic, I switched to castrol syntec. I need to find more studies on castrol and valvoline synthetics...

but RP is king.

[owequitit]

you should know that mobile 1 synthetic is NOT actually synthetic. AND mobile 1 does NOT do as well as other synthetics in tests. Castrol and valvoline are VERY good oils both conventional and synthetic and ARE superior to mobile one...please research



as I stated earlier...toyota began using castrol after the "sludge motor" issues (mid-late 90's v6, some 4cyl) and castrol markets and "anti-sludge" oil as well.
not sure how it differs (if at all) from their regular oil. Castrol is good stuff.

I used to run valvoline conventional and when I switched to castrol conventional my oil was less black and more brown at oil change time.

NOTE: blackness of oil is not supposed to mean anything...but going from black to brown with same brand filters and same change frequency...makes a diff to me.

No comment on color of synthetics as I only have run mobile 1 and castrol syntec.

after seeing bearing tests (which are far from 100% conclusive yet still pretty damn interesting) and finding out that mobile 1 synthetic is NOT true synthetic, I switched to castrol syntec. I need to find more studies on castrol and valvoline synthetics...

but RP is king.

Most likely it has an additive that evaporates the water. Also, while I like Castrol and RP, I might venture to say that Torco is king. I don't think you would go wrong with any of them though.

[MikeW]

Think with y'ar dipstick!!

[bcjammerx]

well royal purple is king cause it's royal...and purple...

forgot about torco, that's what bisi runs too.

[Fake Thug]

well royal purple is king cause it's royal...and purple...

forgot about torco, that's what bisi runs too.

I run RP in my nissan and I picked up 3mpg.Not sure on power I've never dynoed the car. When I replaced my cams with sr16ven1 cams I noticed the original cams looked almost polished with no real signs of wear. They came out of an engine with an unknown number of miles(which I've had almost 1 year) but the engine is at least ten years old and coming from japan I'd say its above 50K. If you know how to shop and where to look or if you have hooks ups you can get RP a lot cheaper than paying $9/qt bux at the parts store.

[benjerman112]

Think With Y'ar Dipstick!!

Jimmy!!!

[i<3mycb7coupe]

wow its as good as they say it is.



ha lamo. mobil garbage

lol cute

[d112crzy]

To some degree ALL conventional oils will bronze over time, so if you keep them changed regularly, you shouldn't have any trouble.

Yep, especially if you wait long periods of time between oil changes(even though mileage is no where near the appropriate increment). I've known people that don't drive there cars very much and wait nearly 5 months to change the oil.

This will cause stains, which is #1 reason as to why motors get very dark on the inside over time.

If the oil has been changed on a regular basis, your motor should have a light gold tan on the inside.

[Bullhorn7]

Castrol Syntec

[cornerkid322]

mobil 1. sorry gotta be different i guess....peace.

[Daheavyking]

Castrol GTX all day. But I've been thinking about going synthetic castrol like the synthetic blend on my next oil change

[93accdpj]

Castrol GTX or Syntec. My radiator tank blew, and my car OVERheated, and shut down before I knew it was even hot. I got it started and drove it down the ramp to the gas station, and it died again. I dont know why the head gasket never blew, I guess cause it's a Honda (not a gm) but I credit the syntec for not letting my pistons melt to the cylinders. Could be wrong, but I have seen some messed up stuff from just minor overheats. I burned uo my water pump seal, but it was time for a timing belt anyway. That was 23,000 miles ago.
An unopened bottle of quaker state in the trunk of you car will cause you to have scrape out your engine. Three sins your engine will eventually make you pay for.....Champions ''spark plugs'', fram ''filters'', and quker state ''oil''.