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Removing the balljoint in the upper control arm(UCA)

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    Removing the balljoint in the upper control arm(UCA)

    I'm getting SPC adjustable balljoints. To install these you have to remove the upper balljoints. I have a balljoint removal/installation tool(not the one SPC offers, but similar)....Is the balljoint tack welded in the UCA?,or can I just press it out?....... They will be here tomorrow. I'm trying to gather info before I start this project. If any one has any experiance with this or any links to info,let me know. Thanx
    Last edited by Kdub; 11-02-2004, 07:49 PM.

    #2
    I found this, click here, did'nt help.

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      #3
      Got them tonight, and just got done installing them. The balljoint pops right out of the UCA, with the right tool and you remove the ring clip. I used a balljoint service tool(can also be used for Ujoints).It looks like a big C-calmp and has a few adapters that you use in differnt combinations to remove and install. It was designed to work with the UCA still on the car, not this car, had to remove the UCA , no big deal. They probably make smaller ones, but the one I got was huge and heavy. This was pretty easy to do, you can use the same tool to press the slide plate onto the UCA where the old balljoint was. I think autozone has this tool to rent.................................Just went for a ride and shes handling like a new car(did the tie-rod ends too)can't wait to get my new tires on tomorrow. been on my doughnut for 2 weeks because rubber was flying off my tire from being out of alignment when I installed the Sportlines a few months ago(needed new tires anyway).The shot tie-rod did'nt help alignment either. Any ? PM me. Peace out.

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        #4
        nice man.. which kit did u get? and also how did you align the bottom washer that has to be pressed in order to get the camber to adjust correctly? hope that makes sense. but in other words how did you figure out which direction to put the slot to get it to work correctly. im doing this right now as well so any info would be helpful, but it seems to be a really easy install. lata

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          #5
          Originally posted by Kdub
          Got them tonight, and just got done installing them. The balljoint pops right out of the UCA, with the right tool and you remove the ring clip. I used a balljoint service tool(can also be used for Ujoints).It looks like a big C-calmp and has a few adapters that you use in differnt combinations to remove and install. It was designed to work with the UCA still on the car, not this car, had to remove the UCA , no big deal. They probably make smaller ones, but the one I got was huge and heavy. This was pretty easy to do, you can use the same tool to press the slide plate onto the UCA where the old balljoint was. I think autozone has this tool to rent.................................Just went for a ride and shes handling like a new car(did the tie-rod ends too)can't wait to get my new tires on tomorrow. been on my doughnut for 2 weeks because rubber was flying off my tire from being out of alignment when I installed the Sportlines a few months ago(needed new tires anyway).The shot tie-rod did'nt help alignment either. Any ? PM me. Peace out.
          nice man, got a link to where you got this kit?

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            #6
            Where did you get your SPC balljoints from and for how much?

            thanks
            Arv

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              #7
              I carry SPC products

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                #8
                NOPI , cheapest I found them. I got the pair for $152 shipped from Georgia to Indy.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by slammed4th gen
                  nice man.. which kit did u get? and also how did you align the bottom washer that has to be pressed in order to get the camber to adjust correctly? hope that makes sense. but in other words how did you figure out which direction to put the slot to get it to work correctly. im doing this right now as well so any info would be helpful, but it seems to be a really easy install. lata
                  I got the ones that adjust +1.5 to +3.0 degrees because I'm more than a 1.5 inch drop.......To line up the plate, there is a mark on the top of the UCA right by the hole, you'll see it , I just lined up the slot on the plate with that line(mark) and pressed it on. I used a 16" cresent to turn the screw on the BJ tool............ I have two differnt UCA's on my car. One must have been replaced at some point. On the one, the plate lined up,got it where I wanted it, gave it a few taps so it would'nt move and pressed it on. The other took me a while because it would not sit right(much tighter). I could not get it to stay in place with a few taps. After playing with it for an hour I finally got it to go on. Keep in mind this tool is Big and awkward, I wish I had a bench vise. The plate on that one was a little off the mark, maybe a mm., and I really don't know if it matters, since it's real close. Tighten the top nut to 95 ft-lbs.
                  Last edited by Kdub; 11-04-2004, 11:13 PM.

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                    #10
                    are you talking about the white marks? cuz thats all i remember seeing on top of the uca. otherwise i was just going to install loosely just to get an idea of where exactly to press it in. but it seems to be a very easy install

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                      #11
                      No, There is a line indented on top of the UCA, right next to the hole, twoards the inside of the car......... It maybe under the balljoint. On my left one(which had some white numbers stamped on it)I could barley see it pokeing out from under the balljoint when I cleaned it up. The other one(which had "Five Three" and "Made in Japan"stamped on it)was pretty much the same way, the top plate for this one was bigger though, I had to use a bigger receiver adapter on the balljoint tool to get it out.........I'm assuming that is the alignment mark they are talking about in the SPC instructions, it's gotta be......I just got it aligned and they adjusted the front camber, no problem. BUT, last night I noticed it is sitting a little higher in the front. Went from barly a 1 finger gap to about a 2 finger gap, noticed it right away. I did'nt think it was supposed to do that,idono. ALSO, I am hitting my fender now, I'm pretty sure it is the UCA. It only does this on bad dips and bumps. I need to check this out further tomorrow. By the way here is a link to the installation instructions on SPC's website, you have to type in the part# which is 67340 (67145 for changes less than 1.5 degrees) then go to the link for the instructions.check it , the tool you will see is just like the one I had. And now that I look at it again it is the same size
                      Last edited by Kdub; 11-05-2004, 01:54 AM.

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                        #12
                        do you have any other spc suspension products? What is your current suspension setup?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by luisitol
                          do you have any other spc suspension products? What is your current suspension setup?
                          No other SPC products, Just Eibach sportlines on stock dampers(shocks). I used washer shims on the back to correct camber.......I checked out where it is hitting. The balljoints are adjusted out almost all the way to give me 0 camber. Because of this the balljoint sticks out at least another inch from the control arm and it is hitting on the side of the "pocket" the UCA goes into. I'm starting to think thet did not alighn it right, but they said thats all they can do. I have the print-out for the alighnment everything is within spec and camber is -.2 front and -.7 back. I'm going to try to make a dent where it is hitting. It's just barely hitting, it should'nt take much. Also time for new shocks.

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                            #14
                            Sorry to hear that you're bangin the inner fenderwell. I decided to go with the chassis tech UCA since it would be less likely to hit the inner fender well and since it uses a regular BJ it hopefully won't shorten the susp travel.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by arv
                              Sorry to hear that you're bangin the inner fenderwell. I decided to go with the chassis tech UCA since it would be less likely to hit the inner fender well and since it uses a regular BJ it hopefully won't shorten the susp travel.
                              Let me know how you like those, I may switch. Good news though, They arent hitting as much, only on severe bumps and dips on shitty streets or country roads. They've basiclly made room from hitting so much. Only problem is it scracthed up the edge on the BJ, where it was hitting, you can't see it without the car jacked up. I had 5 people in my car Fri. and Sat. night, I think that may have helped it "settle in". I'm still going to try to ding in the fender right there.

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