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Exaust work: rusted bolts and removing them.

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    Exaust work: rusted bolts and removing them.

    I'm currently trying to put on my new Megan header and Magnaflow catalytic converter. But as some of you may know, the bolts on the stock catalytic are rusted as hell. SO... I have access to a tap and dye set. I was wondering if i could use that to cut through the rust on the end of the bolt to try and get the nut off. That and a friend of mine has a grinder he says I can borrow... I'd rather use my own tools...
    what are some other options for removing rusted bolts?
    thanks!

    p.s.
    when removing the stock header, some of the studs came out. is that a big problem or am I good if I just screw them back in?
    Last edited by lsn92ex; 02-28-2009, 01:28 PM. Reason: post script question

    #2
    Studs came out of the head?
    Im not sure if thats normal for F22's

    but i would just use some PB blaster and get good leverage.

    Comment


      #3
      yah the stud should just screw back in.

      I use an impact gun, usually works.

      or a grinder.
      Meh, not feeling the honda game anymore.
      MY CAR IS SOLD!!!

      Comment


        #4
        haha, I've doused that whole area in PB blaster, but yo can't even see the threads anymore, that's why I asked if I should try and use a die. But the actual bolt has lost its mass. there is no way i could re-thread it.
        I might give the pneumatic tools a try though.

        but...
        I found a grinder, and as I looked, i realized that the bolts are welded on to the cat. sooo..... even if i cut through the nut too, it'll still be a pain in the ass to get the cat off. and i don't have time today to grind though that and take off the axle back just to get the cat off... that'll have to happen over spring break. woo hoo.

        but I think i might just to wait and get the rest of my exhaust system. (Apex'i WS2)
        that way I can just drop the whole load of rusted crap out at one time and replace it all at the same time too.

        Hunk
        Of
        Neolithic
        Deteriorating
        Aluminum

        ...but I don't think they developed aluminum though. hah.

        thanks for the suggestions though
        Last edited by lsn92ex; 02-28-2009, 03:11 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Hahaha I remember when I had to take my cat off. It took 3 people under the car with a leverage bar to break them loose. And thats with deep creep. And as far as the studs go....just deep creep them 2 times and be real ginger with them. I already broke one on the end of my head and luckily I dont have any leaks. And honestly from what I have been hearing...ya need to sell that Megan. I have read on here that they have been notorious for leaking real bad. Ive had a Ractive since early december and no leaks yet.

          Comment


            #6
            the ones in the stock flange by cat are pressed in. i used an air hammer with a wedge type attachment at the head and it will take the broken stud out.

            always check straightness at flanges! megan exhuast flanges come pre-warped.
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by wed3k View Post
              megan exhuast flanges come pre-warped.
              lol! for your installation pleasure?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by lonski View Post
                lol! for your installation pleasure?
                i seriously measured around .020 on the exhaust flange. thats garbage but for ten bucks, i cant complain
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Shag Wagon View Post
                  Hahaha I remember when I had to take my cat off. It took 3 people under the car with a leverage bar to break them loose. And thats with deep creep. And as far as the studs go....just deep creep them 2 times and be real ginger with them. I already broke one on the end of my head and luckily I dont have any leaks. And honestly from what I have been hearing...ya need to sell that Megan. I have read on here that they have been notorious for leaking real bad. Ive had a Ractive since early december and no leaks yet.
                  ...never thought about using deep creep. thanks!
                  oh, the studs didn't break, they just unscrewed with the header nut attached.
                  and, yeah. how many other people can vouch for the megan header leak?
                  my buddy had an EK that had leak problems with his megan dp to the cat. we just got a bigger gasket though.


                  Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                  the ones in the stock flange by cat are pressed in. i used an air hammer with a wedge type attachment at the head and it will take the broken stud out.

                  always check straightness at flanges! megan exhuast flanges come pre-warped.
                  i plan on cutting all of the the nuts on the cat (haha.), unscrewing the down pipe from the header and just pulling the cat off... but those flanges look like they're pretty effing rusted as well. deep creep will hopefully help with that.
                  man, you guys are making me regret buying this header too. i didn't see anything else that had a better cost/benefit ratio...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    dude drop the exhaust on the gnd then do all ur work in peace amen
                    Summer 11' Big plans (Bodywork/paint/rims etc..) in Progress STAY TUNED

                    CLICK THE PIC

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by GearBangnAccord View Post
                      dude drop the exhaust on the gnd then do all ur work in peace amen
                      ...not a bad approach. haha

                      Comment

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