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**HondaFan81** · 01-21-2009, 11:24 AM

I was thinking either faulty fuel pressure regulator or pinched/clogged fuel return line to tank. In a normal running engine, when you remove the vacuum hose to the fuel regulator, your fuel pressure rises and bogs the motor at idle. You stated your car idles fine and bogs while driving at random. I am thinking you have a vacuum leak in the hose or in the fuel regulator itself. This would raise your idle speed and also causes a near WOT condition (like regulator vacuum hose removed) of the fuel pressure regulator as well, causing your bogging out while driving issues at certain conditions (feeding too much fuel to motor, when it does not need it).

Please let me know what you find.

In short, inspect the vacuum hose to fuel regulator thoroughly and/or replace with known good. If problem persists, inspect and/or replace fuel regulator with known good.

**HondaFan81** · 01-21-2009, 11:25 AM

PM me with your results, I'm curious on what you find. Always interested in technical info like this, so please follow up with me.

**KeeleDesign** · 01-21-2009, 02:57 PM

i took a step back and thought outside the box,

i am going to start with replacing the fuel cap and try and diagnose it backwards, but your points are right on. i will probly go ahead and replace the regulator as i have a good one laying around, but i am goin to do one thing at a time to see what exzactly the problem really is, for future refrences.

I am curious if maybe the O2 is bad causing a problem as well... and it just so happens i am having a pressure build up from a bad cap.. we will see and i will post clearly the results.

**HondaFan81** · 01-21-2009, 04:40 PM

Wouldn't a bad fuel tank cap has the opposite issue (not enough fuel tank pressure)? On the newer Hondas, that is an issue when filling up with gas and the owner's manual states to make sure you tighten the fuel cap until you hear a few clicks. I have personally experienced this twice on the newer Hondas as well, the CEL will go off sometime after fill up and go off after tightening the cap further (after a good few miles).

The fact you said you had pressure build up in the tank, I would move onto other steps and not deal with the fuel cap.

**KeeleDesign** · 01-21-2009, 07:35 PM

maybe..... but my cap should at least be relieving the pressure and it isn't... even though that doesn't really contribute to the cause of such high pressure.

i was hoping to work on it tonight, but i worked late and it's dark so i am screwed.
but i will swap my FR hose in the morning to a different manifold location and make sure it's not clogged to see what happenes.

Remember this is on my motor that was under water for 18hrs. the car for that matter.

**HondaFan81** · 01-21-2009, 07:42 PM

You run/drain the water out the fuel system? If you look at a fuel system diagram, there are entry points water could have made it in. Just a thought.

**C91BLX7** · 01-21-2009, 07:53 PM

Caps don't relieve gas tank pressure.

Thats the job of the charcoal can/purge system.

**KeeleDesign** · 01-21-2009, 10:49 PM

i drained the gas tank, and yeah the cap does have a purge valve to relieve pressure.

to tired to think so i'll stop their for now.

**KeeleDesign** · 01-23-2009, 02:51 PM

i replaced the regulator, yet the same symptoms remain, the idle pressure is correct... yet i am still gaining to much pressure in my tank, for it isn't relievine it'sself.

**HondaFan81** · 01-23-2009, 08:00 PM

Can you go into more detail on how you removed your charcoal canister/purge valve system? I am wondering if it has to do with this and if you actually are now not allowing the fuel tank to relieve pressure.

From the fuel tank you have one line that goes to a 2-way valve, then that goes to the charcoal canister, which is purged by an electronic solenoid. You should trace this system from the tank to the area where the charcoal canister used to be, see if fuel pressure is being released or if you actually sealed up this system...not allowing it to vent. So all that is in regard to your higher fuel tank internal pressure.

I believe that your 1800 idle rpm prob has to do with your bogging issue as well and it is a separate problem. Also mentioned a slight miss. I think this is ignition related, did you check your ignition coil? If not that, then move onto igniter. Was the distributor area (under cap, etc.) moisture/dampness removed from this accident? You remove spark plug boots and clean out the tubes if they have water and blow out each of the spark plug ends (at cap and at plug)?

Did you drain water from the fuel tank from this accident? Any possibility you have water in the fuel system?

**KeeleDesign** · 01-24-2009, 10:57 AM

charcole canistor removal:

After removing all these parts, i left the line near the firewall exzactly where it is. I bought a small filter to go over the end, so that i wouldn't have any water or and other unknown partical going in their to clogg it up.

Fuel Tank:

Luckily the fuel tank was almost full with gas when the wreck happened, casusing a fuel and water seperation not allowing to much water to enter the tank.
I drained it and added alchohol in with my fuel and fuel additives to evaperate the water that was still in their, and i left my gas cap off for a couple weeks while it sat their and it was being worked on. now i have ran 2 tanks of fuel through it since.

electronics:

The distributer and everything else you can think of i took apart and cleaned and made sure no alge or mold spores were growing in them.

The intake manifold was takin off and sandblasted and cleaned and painted

I know the fuel pump is working correctly because it has all the pressure that is needed.

I am starting to double question rather the new iacv i bought might also be bad.

When i remove the Fuel pressure regulator and do not clogg the hole on the intake manifold,,, normally it use to surge. Yet now it just idles at like 2,200 rpm's.

(Can i remove the IACV and just leave it plugged up and block the holed off to see if this is the problem?)

I have not replaced my gas cap yet, i will be doing that today,, just for thwe heck of it.

1 thing i did not replace, was my O2 sensor. I am curious if this may be faulty causing something, even though it isn't throwing a code.

the egr is not hooked up and is blocked off as well, yet it has always been like this.

the slight miss could be a ton of things, but the pressure build up in the tank can't be.....hmmmmmmmmm

**KeeleDesign** · 01-24-2009, 06:48 PM

ok i put my other gas cap on today.

the idle has not changed.... yet.... my car isn't missing, and the fuel tank isn't having tons of pressure, on day 1.

**HondaFan81** · 01-25-2009, 02:43 PM

Based off your previous comment, did you mean when you removed the vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator, the idle remained at 2200 rpms? If so, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

When idling, you can remove the electronics on your IACV (which defaults to closing this valve) and your idle will drop. Technically, your car should remain idling, but rough and barely at 500-600 RPMs. When you reinstall the electrical plug at the IACV, the idle should raise to the normal 700-800 RPM. When the IACV is plugged in and your car idling, if you hear a constant buzzing sound (that when you remove plug at IACV, goes away), then yes...your IACV is bad.

**KeeleDesign** · 01-25-2009, 07:26 PM

well that sucks.... i may have a leak... i have checked using carb cleaner, but not as of late...
dang i hate taking the manifolds off... o well.

i will be finding this issue out shortly then. although shouldn't it be surging with a leak..

also day 2 no pressure in the tank..
I am not believeing that it was just a bad gas cap....

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Fuel Tank Pressure Abnormal.

Fuel Tank Pressure Abnormal.

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