popping noise in upper RPMs

[Fake Thug]

.

If you look at Honda specs, the timing setting is 15* BTDC +/- 2*. .

Exactly!

[Losiracer2]

yeahh.....so another issue to add to the list of problems I found out today while going to school is a jumpy tach....all of a sudden while wating at a light, my tach jumped up and down, engine RPM stayed the same, and then a few seconds later it stalled. so I'm thinking my ignitor since it happened on my F22, but I'm not sure if that's caused by the timing/TPS mess or not. I'm getting the TPS and timing reset tonight as well as the wiring redone so hopefully thats what's causing all this mess.

[d112crzy]

The ONLY thing affecting your tach is the distributor. Replace the ignitor and you'll be fine. It may even solve your backfiring issue.

[prNonVtec4u]

not necessarily replace anything... re-crimp the connectors that plug into the icm. jumpy tach usually means bad connection (went thru it a few times w/ spray runs... scary).

i agree with setting your timing back to the stock amount of 15deg if running 91 octane. you're pushing the fuel's octanage and MIGHT just be causing detonation... not a good thing at all.

[owequitit]

yeahh.....so another issue to add to the list of problems I found out today while going to school is a jumpy tach....all of a sudden while wating at a light, my tach jumped up and down, engine RPM stayed the same, and then a few seconds later it stalled. so I'm thinking my ignitor since it happened on my F22, but I'm not sure if that's caused by the timing/TPS mess or not. I'm getting the TPS and timing reset tonight as well as the wiring redone so hopefully thats what's causing all this mess.

You also need to check the coil.

[owequitit]

not necessarily replace anything... re-crimp the connectors that plug into the icm. jumpy tach usually means bad connection (went thru it a few times w/ spray runs... scary).

i agree with setting your timing back to the stock amount of 15deg if running 91 octane. you're pushing the fuel's octanage and MIGHT just be causing detonation... not a good thing at all.

Never had any problems in less than 115* heat with 17 BTDC. It is within specs.

[Losiracer2]

are the 9091 CB7 ignitors identical to the 92-95 OBD1 internal coil JDM H22 ones? if so I've got a spare ignitor I can try.

[owequitit]

are the 9091 CB7 ignitors identical to the 92-95 OBD1 internal coil JDM H22 ones? if so I've got a spare ignitor I can try.

Should be. Why didn't he just use your stock wiring and keep the external coil?

[Law Grandeur]

so your vtec is popping in and out. like its stuttering? my car did that when i first got vtec working. ending up cleaning the vtec solenoid and using better oil. did a basic tune up(pugs, wires, oil, air filter, pcv, etc) and it stopped stuttering. would engage smoothly. check your ground too. hope that helps...

[Losiracer2]

Should be. Why didn't he just use your stock wiring and keep the external coil?

because it came w/ a wiring harness made by hasport all ready to go and all. Plus I didn't have an ext. coil dizzy, idk if the H22 ones are the same as the F22 ext. coil ones or not. idk, it was working a week ago fine, no stumbling no stuttering, no jumpy tach. When he swapped it, it was shifting great where it needed to be at 7200rpms. I just had that low rpm miss every 2 to 3 sec. The swap itself is pretty clean. You gotta see it in person...

so your vtec is popping in and out. like its stuttering? my car did that when i first got vtec working. ending up cleaning the vtec solenoid and using better oil. did a basic tune up(pugs, wires, oil, air filter, pcv, etc) and it stopped stuttering. would engage smoothly. check your ground too. hope that helps...

yeah popping VTEC, when the RPMs get to like 5k the tach jumps from 5 to 6 to 5k. But it starts popping at like 4 to 4.5k. I have brand new Nology Hotwires, brand new NGK platinum plugs....the same as OEM stock for this engine....oil is Royal Purple 5w30 done 500 miles ago, PCV is working, Air filter is clean, I've got an Iceman intake so i can see it. I also added like 5-6 grounds since I relocated my batt. to the back of the car in the trunk.


I just bought a timing light off some guy on Craigslist tonight, but can't figure out how it works. Its an Innova digital timing light model 3560. But all I can get it to do is read the engine RPM, it won't give me a timing degree readout. But the marks are in between the cross hairs when the light flashes so I'm thinking its good?

[foamypirate]

On a little bit of a tangent, I believe the lower octane (91 versus 93) has something to do with altitude and air density. The lower the altitude, the higher octane required(more oxygen content per cfm). Thus, 91 at a higher altitude would have the same effect as 93 octane at a lower altitude, at least when it comes to controlling detonation.

[Law Grandeur]

hmmm thats interesting. try putting your old wires on and run 93 oct and see if it happens again.

[Losiracer2]

hmmm thats interesting. try putting your old wires on and run 93 oct and see if it happens again.

I only can get 91 here. I can try an Octane boost, but i don't see why that should be an issue though. I ran 2000+ miles on 91 and it didn't detonate or anything. Nology wires are FAR superior to the OEM wires, since they have individual grounding points that attach to the Valve cover for a better hotter spark.

[Losiracer2]

If I can't get this fixed soon, i'll prob. have to take it somewhere...good thing Hasport and Full Race are kinda close by, idk if they offer engine diagnostics as part of their services but its worth a shot. I really do appreciate the help, but if I don't have the tools necessary to fix it, aka a good multimeter and a good timing light, I can't really do much

[foamypirate]

Multimeter and Timing Light < $50 combined.

Buy them, use them, and they'll always be around for your use in the future.