i just replace my head cause i bent the valves now i cant get the cam pully to turn when i went to set the time the valves aint bent there all seated good what am i missing
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When you have cyl heads reconditioned, they usually come to you in the form of head with valvetrain assembled and no rocker arm assembly. I install a new OEM headgasket, make sure 2 dowel pins in place and the oil jet orifice valve and bolt down the head in 3 steps (30-50-80 lb-ft). Put moly lube under heads of head screws and on threads before torquing down. Line up the crank at TDC of cyl # 1. Lube (engine assembly lube) up the head cam journals, set cam at approximate TDC cyl # 1 (arrow at 12 oclock), lube up all cam lobes, then install rocker arm assembly. Torque down rocker arm assembly. Now install timing belt and your crank to cam relation should be pretty close...rotate whatever necessary to get everything for physical timing in order. Once you have the timing belt on, adjust your tension on it. Then, proceed with valve lash adjustment which is .010 inch INT/.012 inch EXH for stock specs.
Set your distributor to the middle of the slot for initial alignment and startup of engine. Put oil in your motor & oil filter. Get your engine fully warmed up and coolant filled & bled first. Check for any fluid leaks (mainly coolant and motor oil). Then, adjust your idle to your stock 700-800 RPM. Once there, you can adjust your ignition timing to stock 15 deg BTDC. Finally, I proceed with any tweaking of the idle control, if needed to make sure all is running well making sure of no vacuum leaks, all is sealed well, check for any fluid leaks, etc.
NOTE: Install stock new OEM headgasket in dry, no need for any silicone sealant. I've never had problems with leaks. If you do, I would check for block or head warpage or cracks before proceeding further. I don't use anything but OEM for headgasket, it is too important of a component to deal with aftermarket product.
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