Con Rod Bearings

[CBAccordA4]

i personally would take the rod out and have it measured along with the crank. this way you can get a clearance and cross reference it with the color bearing.

a machine shop or anyone with a dial bore guage will be able to determine housing bore. usually when you spin a bearing, that rod will get beat to shit and enlarge the housing bore.

I would love to do all that, replace the pistons and rods but I just dont have the time or the money now. Since I want an H22 by late summer, I have concluded to replace all rod bearings and clean the engine as well as I can. It should last at least a good , in the 10,000 miles more even if clearance is off a 1000th of an inch. I just think its a waste of time pulling all this down to put in stock replacements when I actually want the engine built. So when I get the H22, I will start on a mild build for this f22b. I moved the piston up and down ( the one with the damaged rod bearing) and it feels just as solid as the rest so hopefully the bore is not so bad.
Thanks alot for your help, you sound like you've done some bottom end work in your day.
Question for ya, that was posted here a few messages ago. When I took down the oil pickup screen/strainer, I noticed that the port attatched to the block was very clean and pretty much had no oil in it. Is it supposed to look like that after 3 days of the motor not being run??? Whats the best way, effective way to check for oil problem. As far as I can see the head gets oil fine by the way. ?? Thanx again

[wed3k]

well...let me see what the service manual says about rod bearings. i know the mains there is a code ont he crank and block and combining the letters iwll give you the color. let me see if this applicable with the rods. i dont do this method because im so used to checking everything with a dial bore guage and micrometers and stuff. (i work in a machine shop )

the head may get oil but it is all the shavings in the oil that may contaminate and potentially wear components but should be good for 10k miles. actually a .001 of clearance is a lot...if stock is .0015 you could have just reduced it to .0005 or .0025. either way it isnt good.

try and do it right,m this will prevent a rod hanging out the side of the block and in that case, you wont be able to use the lower end at all

[CBAccordA4]

well...let me see what the service manual says about rod bearings. i know the mains there is a code ont he crank and block and combining the letters iwll give you the color. let me see if this applicable with the rods. i dont do this method because im so used to checking everything with a dial bore guage and micrometers and stuff. (i work in a machine shop )

the head may get oil but it is all the shavings in the oil that may contaminate and potentially wear components but should be good for 10k miles. actually a .001 of clearance is a lot...if stock is .0015 you could have just reduced it to .0005 or .0025. either way it isnt good.

try and do it right,m this will prevent a rod hanging out the side of the block and in that case, you wont be able to use the lower end at all

Well, I am going to use plastiguage before my final bolt on to check clearance. Any problems with it then I am going to order the bearing that gives me the best clearance. I am going to examine the bore a little more closely for any scoring to make sure it wasnt beat up like you suggested earlier. The metal chips werent really that fine maybe because 2 mins after the bearing spun I shut the car off. If I find any trace of metal in the head then I am going to take it off and wash it thoroughly.

Any answer on the question I had about the oil pickup/strainer port to the block being cleannn and no oil came from there at all??

[wed3k]

if it's clean, run it.

[benji]

Any answer on the question I had about the oil pickup/strainer port to the block being cleannn and no oil came from there at all??

Since (you said) it sat for 3 days, the oil probably just drained off of it. There is still an extremely thin coat there, just nothing excess to cause drips or runs. Nothing to worry about.

[CBAccordA4]

if it's clean, run it.

Yeh its clean, I checked the head and it if 100% visibly free of any metal extracts. I found out what you were saying about the codes for bearings in one my old Haynes manuals. The marks were on the crank and the and the ends of the rod. Matched them up and I finally was 100% sure on what bearings I needed. 2 Greens, 1 brown, 1 yellow. I ordered 2 greens and 2 browns. Smootehd the rod journal on the crank as smooth as possible with emery and fine. Cleaned all removed parts with soap & water, alcohol, then acetone. I also had to order a new oil pickup strainer because my current one had too many oil chips in it. It did a very good job and straining the metal. The only thing Im waiting for now is the yellow bearings to be ordered on monday for tuesday. Hopefully it runs at least 95% of what it was. Thanx for your help again.

Since (you said) it sat for 3 days, the oil probably just drained off of it. There is still an extremely thin coat there, just nothing excess to cause drips or runs. Nothing to worry about.

OK, it just bothered me that it was so much cleaner than everywhere else underneath there. I would at least think that it would be discolored like the other parts thats been sitting in oil. Thanx man.

[wed3k]

you are awesome. just remember to torque those rod nuts down.

[CBAccordA4]

Bad News

Well, I put the brand new bearings in, Torqued everything down to spec and bolted everything up. I put some Shell 10w 30 oil in just to kinda flush whatever might have been left over from the massacre with a magntic at the drainplug. I let it run for about 30-45 mins straight at idle speed. Than I tested it to see if theres any noise. There was no noise when I turned on the car at first, no noise at idle speed and no noise when I revved the engine. I just let it run some more, time to time testin for any sounds. Nothing out of the ordinary but I still didnt have a good felling. Next morning I went to start it, I heard the DREADED knocking sound again and I wanted to die. So I rev the engine and sure enough, it sounded like it did the first time I noticed the sound 3 months ago, just quiter. Checked the oil and no metal at all. Then I drove the car around, same noise the more load it has and under hevey acceleration. I was so pissed because the motor has balls, accelerated nicely.

Im just thinking that wed3k was right, I should have serviced the crank and check the rods and piston and bore for any misalignment. I probably should have replaced the rod cap as well as it had some scoring thatI just smoothed out with emery. Well I just didnt have that kinda time and didnt want to do so much work. So I've come to a conclusion to just get another f22b for now because I need the car to drive. I'll just build the damaged one. Thanks for everyones help, much appreciated, by the way, anyone know how much it cost to gewt crank serviced??

[wed3k]

to get one fully machined around here it is about 100 bucks for both rods and mains. you should be able to get away with just the rods and just polish up the mains.

or get another low mileage f22 engine and steal the crank out of it. f22 cranks and rods are worth money for the h22 people trying to stroke thier engine.

[CBAccordA4]

to get one fully machined around here it is about 100 bucks for both rods and mains. you should be able to get away with just the rods and just polish up the mains.

or get another low mileage f22 engine and steal the crank out of it. f22 cranks and rods are worth money for the h22 people trying to stroke thier engine.

That doesnt sound bad. Well I think i found another f22b for $600 so Im gonna grab it and throw it in this weekend. No more puzzle solving for me. Thanx alot man.