Con Rod Bearings

[Shag Wagon]

Pull the oil pan off and see if you have any wobbly rods. Thats how I found my spun bearing in my H23a1.

[wed3k]

Pull the oil pan off and see if you have any wobbly rods. Thats how I found my spun bearing in my H23a1.

that's about as accurate as plastiguage.

[CBAccordA4]

I didnt get to pull off the oilpan yet. Only the the timing cover and accessories to change the belts. Its TOO DAMN COLD and my work schedule is rediculous. My boy is offering to let me use his garage so Im gonna take that offer. Been depressed lately that I havent been on this thing for like 3 weeks. Hopefully soon I'll get this shit figured out and fixed.

[CBAccordA4]

Anyone know if a timing belt tensioner can make this kind of noise. I took off the middle timing belt cover, the one right under the valve cover and as I rev the motor, I hear the noise and the belt gets flappy or sloppy, probably due to slackness. So I tightened it my using this method. Losson tensioner blot, turn 3 teeth on cam gear counter clockwise, (im turning the crank), and then tighten the tens... back. It feels stiff but as I rev the motor it still gets flapps on acceleration. Wondering if the tensioner could be make that noise. I used a stethescope but that shit amplifies every fuckin thing. Hard to tell. Any help is appreciated.

[HondaFan81]

Anyone know if a timing belt tensioner can make this kind of noise. I took off the middle timing belt cover, the one right under the valve cover and as I rev the motor, I hear the noise and the belt gets flappy or sloppy, probably due to slackness. So I tightened it my using this method. Losson tensioner blot, turn 3 teeth on cam gear counter clockwise, (im turning the crank), and then tighten the tens... back. It feels stiff but as I rev the motor it still gets flapps on acceleration. Wondering if the tensioner could be make that noise. I used a stethescope but that shit amplifies every fuckin thing. Hard to tell. Any help is appreciated.

If you installed all components properly from that last timing belt job, when you reset tension as you explained with the 3 cam gear teeth move method and lock it all down via adjuster nut, at that point the tensioner is irrelevant. The tensioner temporarily puts tension via spring when you loosen the adjuster nut, then you lock it down, the adjuster nut holds all in place at that point.

So the fact you lose tension again (assuming timing belt in one piece), tells me that some component(s) in your timing belt area is broken, not install properly or missing.

Is the timing belt tensioner pulley installed properly? (I've seen people not align right side on the pilot pivot point).

[CBAccordA4]

If you installed all components properly from that last timing belt job, when you reset tension as you explained with the 3 cam gear teeth move method and lock it all down via adjuster nut, at that point the tensioner is irrelevant. The tensioner temporarily puts tension via spring when you loosen the adjuster nut, then you lock it down, the adjuster nut holds all in place at that point.

So the fact you lose tension again (assuming timing belt in one piece), tells me that some component(s) in your timing belt area is broken, not install properly or missing.

Is the timing belt tensioner pulley installed properly? (I've seen people not align right side on the pilot pivot point).

In all honesty man, and I know I should have, but being the the mileage on the engine was so low when I bought it and the belt was in such good condition, I thoughtbthat I would do the timing belt a year from when I bought the engine. So I never changed any of the timing components as of yet.
Im thinking (hoping) maybe there is a flat spot on the tensioner or maybe the tensioner bearing is bad.

[CBAccordA4]

Problem Found

Well its been a long ass 3 months since my car been down, but now I have finally found the culprit. CON ROD BEARINGS...... I thought that the noise was coming from the timing area so I replaced everything there, belts, tensioners, water pump. Same noise after I was dont. Anyway I pulled down the oil pan after months of procrastinantion and checked all bearings, piston # 2's bearing was spun. Also there were oil shavings in the oil so Im gonna fill with cheap oil and change every few days for a while then use some good shit. Clean all parts that I can as thoroughly as possible. Im going to replace all the con rod bearings even tho only one of them is fucked.

One question I got for you guys thats puzzling me. When I took down the oil pick up screen, I noticed that at the the end that attatches to the block, there was virtually and visibly no oil in there, that shit was cleannnnnn as hell. Now shouldnt oil have been dripping from that hold. Keep in mind that the engine had been off for 3 days now. My head, engine head that is, is getting oil by the way. It just makes me weary about the oil pump.

Also the scoring that was left around the crank from the spun bearing, I was just gonna smooth it out with wet emery. Let me know how all this sounds, If theres any other thing I should look out for or tip on what I should do on reaasembly. Thanx fellas

[wed3k]

shavings in the oil will get into everything. id highly recommend you take everything out that contains an oil passage and clean it.

[CBAccordA4]

shavings in the oil will get into everything. id highly recommend you take everything out that contains an oil passage and clean it.

What else has oil passages other that the main journal that I can take out and clean. ??

[benji]

What else has oil passages other that the main journal that I can take out and clean. ??

The head comes to mind...

[CBAccordA4]

The head comes to mind...

I meant easily removable, well If there are no metal shavings in the oil in the head then Im gonna assume that the metal shaving probably just sunk to the bottom and the oil pickup strained it so it wasnt pumped back up, at least thats what Im hoping. What is best liquid to use to flush the engine??? All parts I removed I was going to clean with soap and water, then Acetone.

[wed3k]

anything that oil travels to, oil pump, strainer, head, rocker assembly, oil cooler (if equipped).

the shavings have been ground to fine particles which will get past your strainer no problem. which is why you never buy an oil cooler or transmission cooler from a component that blew up. that cooler just became the filter.

[gloryaccordy]

Hey man, I have like 4 motors for you...

[CBAccordA4]

anything that oil travels to, oil pump, strainer, head, rocker assembly, oil cooler (if equipped).

the shavings have been ground to fine particles which will get past your strainer no problem. which is why you never buy an oil cooler or transmission cooler from a component that blew up. that cooler just became the filter.

OK, thanks, I gonna do my best to clean whatever I can without removing the head.

Hey man, I have like 4 motors for you...

Oh yeh, what motors??

Next problem I ran into is that I didnt know that each individual cap bearings are stamped, so I took a picture of them in order just for reference and then put them all in a bag mixed together. I went to the dealer today ( in a rush to go to work) and the bearing that spun, had the color stamp scratched right off the bearing so that stamp is a mystery, cyl # 2 I belive. The rest of the stamps are 2 green and 1 red. I have no idea in which order they go and the parts guy was acting like I was fucked in the situation and I want to know, AM I???. My guess is thethe broken beariing is the other red stamp and those two red stamps belong in the middle cyl #2 and #3 since they are of the same stroke. And the two greens are cyl #1 and #4. Thats the only way I can make sense now and until I know anything further this is the direction I am going in. This is my first time replacing con rod bearings so I didnt know. Also, what engine do I use, H23 or f22a as reference to the parts guy.??.
Any help is appreciated

[wed3k]

i personally would take the rod out and have it measured along with the crank. this way you can get a clearance and cross reference it with the color bearing.

a machine shop or anyone with a dial bore guage will be able to determine housing bore. usually when you spin a bearing, that rod will get beat to shit and enlarge the housing bore.