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    Valve tick after synthetic oil change

    I recently changed my oil from conventional to synthetic. I grabbed Quaker State HP oil because it was on sale and iwanted to switch to synthetic anyway.

    Right after, i start hearing a lot more valve noise. I know H22's make plenty of it, but it's a different tick. almost sounds like injectors just really loud.

    I'm not sure if it's the same sound, but at the same time, i can hear something similar, only when im accelarating. I thought it was my exhaust leak since i was missing a bolt at the end of the DP but i got one on and it's tight. still there.

    It's a little weird because it sounds like a mixture of valve tick, detonation, and sounds like i have a hole in my exhaust. but it happens mostly in second gear or higher. I can't hear it in VTEC because it's not THAT loud. but enough for me to not want to accelarate much. also does it more with a WOT at low RPM's.

    and i can't hear it at all when it's in neutral. but idk if i just can't hear it, or if it's not making the noise.


    I am uber paranoid about shit like this. Any suggestions will be tremendously helpful.

    #2
    you put the same grade?
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by wed3k View Post
      you put the same grade?
      x2 thicker oil will make it tick, especially when its cold
      miss my turbo cb7
      moved onto volvos. dont know how that happened, just did

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by quickangel93 View Post
        x2 thicker oil will make it tick, especially when its cold
        Thicker will? i did use Lucas additive. but it's consistent. And i thought today, it sounds like a V-Twin from a distance.

        but it was the same grade. I don't think it's anything serious. I have no power loss. I can feel where my power band drops right before 3k but nothing crazy.

        It's just in the back of my mind and i have this thing where if my car i making werid noises that i can pin point, i never really feel right myself.

        Comment


          #5
          sine you use a synthetic, you can tighten up the valve lash. synthetics require less clearance.
          I <3 G60.

          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by wed3k View Post
            sine you use a synthetic, you can tighten up the valve lash. synthetics require less clearance.
            X2 a good valve adjustment will go a long way, it might actually make your exhaust quieter as well.
            DEVOTE


            __________________________________________
            FS: Lokuputha's Stuff
            "It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow."-The Smartest Man In The World

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by lokuputha View Post
              X2 a good valve adjustment will go a long way, it might actually make your exhaust quieter as well.
              sweet. i was thinking about that. wasn't sure if that would fix the problem though. but it could use it anyway.


              Is the process the same as with the F22A? and if anyone knows, what are the clearances that i would need?

              Thanks a lot. I feel a bit better.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Flatline View Post
                sweet. i was thinking about that. wasn't sure if that would fix the problem though. but it could use it anyway.


                Is the process the same as with the F22A? and if anyone knows, what are the clearances that i would need?

                Thanks a lot. I feel a bit better.
                it could be a lost motion assembly, basically a hydraulic lifter for the vtec. this has happened on a member's h22 swapped cb7. it ticks on cylinder number one so i pulled the valve cover off and ran the clearances and they were all cherry. the h22 is still loud and sounds like a high mileage honda (sounds like a diesel in the morning)

                i think the clearances are .008 and .010. intake and exhaust
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Oil is what I do for a livin....If you have been using Conventional then you should stay with it...

                  On the other hand If you have a lot of miles on the motor Over 75K the you really should use a high millage oil witch is usually a simisynthetic anyways...

                  Synthetic is a thiner oil then conventional oil...EVEN IF IT BOTH SAY 10W30!!

                  In my Openion Synthetic is a wast of time..I use 10W30 Havoline Convention Oil In My CB7 With 199+K miles and It Runs And Sounds Like New...

                  Just Remember To Change The Oil And Filter Every 3K And You'll Be OK!!


                  1990 Accord LX Sedan~Sold
                  1993 Accord EX Sedan~Sold
                  1995 Suzuki GSX-R 750~Totaled

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Just a word from experinence, don't use Q, Quaker state, or Pennizol. They have a tendency to sludge worse than say Havoline, Castrol, or Valvoline.

                    86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
                    "The Turtle"
                    DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by StinkinLincoln View Post
                      Oil is what I do for a livin....If you have been using Conventional then you should stay with it...

                      On the other hand If you have a lot of miles on the motor Over 75K the you really should use a high millage oil witch is usually a simisynthetic anyways...

                      Synthetic is a thiner oil then conventional oil...EVEN IF IT BOTH SAY 10W30!!

                      In my Openion Synthetic is a wast of time..I use 10W30 Havoline Convention Oil In My CB7 With 199+K miles and It Runs And Sounds Like New...

                      Just Remember To Change The Oil And Filter Every 3K And You'll Be OK!!
                      i thought synthetic was just slicker and the molecules are a lot finer. which is why it can handle a tighter clearanced motor because it wont break down under a higher pressure.
                      I <3 G60.

                      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Flatline View Post
                        Thicker will? i did use Lucas additive. but it's consistent. And i thought today, it sounds like a V-Twin from a distance.

                        but it was the same grade. I don't think it's anything serious. I have no power loss. I can feel where my power band drops right before 3k but nothing crazy.

                        It's just in the back of my mind and i have this thing where if my car i making werid noises that i can pin point, i never really feel right myself.
                        yea going from like 5w30 to like 10w30 or 40. i had issues with my f22 when switching oils.
                        miss my turbo cb7
                        moved onto volvos. dont know how that happened, just did

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by StinkinLincoln View Post
                          Oil is what I do for a livin....If you have been using Conventional then you should stay with it...

                          On the other hand If you have a lot of miles on the motor Over 75K the you really should use a high millage oil witch is usually a simisynthetic anyways...

                          Synthetic is a thiner oil then conventional oil...EVEN IF IT BOTH SAY 10W30!!

                          In my Openion Synthetic is a wast of time..I use 10W30 Havoline Convention Oil In My CB7 With 199+K miles and It Runs And Sounds Like New...

                          Just Remember To Change The Oil And Filter Every 3K And You'll Be OK!!

                          It's a new motor. I ordered it with 35k on it and it was sitting for a while. I ran cheap oil to clean it out as well as Seafoam because it had a little bit of abuse before i got it.

                          Changed the oil after 500 miles at first to Castrol GTX. 3k later, i went synthetic because it has more detergents to keep the motor clean.

                          I noticed the oil WAS a bit thin looking. I even double checked the weights after i poured the first bottle.

                          Would i be better off with a heavier weight oil if i stay synthetic?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I would stay with the Castrol GTX...I't in my Opinion the BEST STUFF!!

                            And yes if you run a oil fed turbo SYNTHETIC IS REQUIRED and included in most off the shelf turbo kits...But for most All motor cars It really dont matter..

                            I use Hovoline Because I get it for FREE and it's good stuff.. "Im A store Manager Of a Texaco Xpress Lube..lol"


                            1990 Accord LX Sedan~Sold
                            1993 Accord EX Sedan~Sold
                            1995 Suzuki GSX-R 750~Totaled

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Agreed, Castrol GTX is all I use in our vehicles, that and Castrol Syntec in the CB.

                              86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
                              "The Turtle"
                              DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

                              Comment

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