I havent heard anything about quaker state oils so i dunno there. But I would agree that synth is a bit thinner of an oil so thats probably where the noise is coming from.
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Valve tick after synthetic oil change
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Originally posted by wed3k View Posti thought synthetic was just slicker and the molecules are a lot finer. which is why it can handle a tighter clearanced motor because it wont break down under a higher pressure.
There are many misconceptions about the different grades of oil. First, if the OEM recommends a certain grade, then stick to that grade.
Second, you have to understand what the numbers mean. The first number is the grade oil will be COLD, the second is the grade once AT temperature.
NEVER and I mean never change the second number in the grade, unless you are an engine builder or your builder said to do so. You WILL cause damage to the engine internals.
Think of it like this:
--Imagine oil is one of those thick shakes from Jack in the Crack. Now try to slurp some from a Jack straw. Now with a smaller straw. Easier from a large straw. So if your oil ports have been modified to accept a THICKER oil, then a higher number grade is acceptable.
The first number is there, so that oil rises to the upper valve train as quickly as possible where OHC motors need it.
Also keep in mind, if you have not put in a NEW racing application oil pump, your oil pump will suffer from a thicker grade oil.
Thirdly, Honda has millions of dollars in R&D on their motors to determine the correct grade of oil for each application. If you think you are better than them, then go ahead an change the grade.
When it comes to conventional and synthetic, I say personal preference. Although synthetic is more forgiving, it comes down to what you want to spend.
Sorry for the long post, but when the discussion is about oil, I can't help but to put my .02 cents in.
Even though some of my statement is MY opinion, the larger part is all fact. Spend some time researching and you will see as well.
Hope this helps out some.Last edited by djcaz_aom; 12-25-2008, 09:15 PM.
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I may just switch to Castrol again. If i run this oil for a few hundred miles, would i be okay to go back? i hear crap about switching from synth to conventional. but it's only been around 2 hundred miles. and castrol is cheaper.
I am going to do a valve adjustment anyway, but i think it is from the oil. It happened immediately after the oil change. I just didn't think changing your oil could do this if you kept it the same weight.
But as for Q oil.... If it does sludge up at all more than others, it's coming out tomorrow. I want to do as good as i can for this motor.
But ye or ne for changing back? or is there anything i should do first. Like going to a blend first, then regular?
and thanks for all the quick replies.....
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A given grade is the same whether it is conventional or synthetic.
Synthetic is better for your high revving motor. Just look at all the OEMs that choose to use Mobil1 Synthetic.
The noise takes getting use to. I used to think it was excessive, but that is the life of an H22. I say do a valve adjustment, and live with the noise. Once you get used to it, you will be able to tell when it isn't running right. Just watch the videos I posted, I run a full synthetic and my motor runs like a champ.
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royal purple and mobil 1 high mileage ftw!
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Accord turbo kit under $2k here
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So this random ass tick that sounds like shit is normal???
Im going to have to dig in a little. im going to try a valve adjustment, if it stays then im changing to another oil. Mobile1 and RP seem to be fav's but idk about $40 an oil change. but if it's the best then i can try. where can i get RP? I have seem their additives at Autozone but not their oil.
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Forty bucks on an oil change ain't nothing, I spent 60 on my last oilchange. Also a side note the only time that rasing the grade of oil is for say "acceptable" is when your oil pressure runs low. This works in old cars/ trucks because we do it. I wouldn't recommend rasing your grade unless the little temp chart or manufacturs says so.
86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
"The Turtle"
DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug
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Synthetic on a high millage will almost allways find its way out!! Thats why I don't run it on my car with 199k on it..I GOT ENOUGH LEAKS as it is
As for Lucas goes It is good stuff for cars that are making noise. It does quiet them down and a lot of customers come in the shop with a bottle and want me to add the stuff for them..But I truley dont like the stuff.. Its thick as hell!!
I'll Stick With Plane Old 10W30 Havoline
The Way I See It Is If It Aint Broke Dont Fix It......stick with what you've been using and having luck with....Or Spend The Extra Bucks Got A Synthetic Oil Change And Deal With The Noise..
1990 Accord LX Sedan~Sold
1993 Accord EX Sedan~Sold
1995 Suzuki GSX-R 750~Totaled
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Originally posted by wed3k View Posthow did we get into brand preference?
anyways, just do a sound sample or video of it to see if its something wrong or not. i know no one here figured out what my noise was. much help they were -_-
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Accord turbo kit under $2k here
$30 HID kits here Thread
"What a selfish bitch. She looks like one too. A smart-mouthed, facebook-ing, "i dont know if im straight, bi or *** yet" little brat." -greencb7inkc
"No Herra Frush, Slammed, tucked or frame dragging here. I'll leave that to the mini trucks...." -fishdonotbounce
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