starting problem- electrical related?

[scudweiser]

i have a 1993 lx, h22a swap, p13. yesterday i went to start my car and it took about 30 seconds of cranking it over to start. as i was driving it seemed to want to stall out once in a while but was fine for the most part, no power loss. i noticed at a stop light that the tachometer would "twitch" a little, moving in short, jerky motions even though the engine rpms didnt actually change.

right now i cannot get the car to start at all.

the tach not getting a constant signal leads me to believe that the problem is linked to the distributer, since thats where the tach gets its signal from. any ideas on were to start? id like to rule out easy stuff first.

[GUA-D'zCb-7]

kinda the same problem want to kno wat to do also thanks

[scudweiser]

i just checked and i am getting no spark at all, checking the cap and rotor as well as the coil now. fawking jdm internal coil, is there a diy on swapping to a external coil?

[scudweiser]

my ignition coil has 0ohms resistance, its shorted out.

ok GUA-D'zCB7, use an ignition tester to check your spark at the plugs, if theres no spark, remove your distributer cap and rotor to test your igniter module, if you have a Hayes guide and it shows you how to do it in there, good, if not i can show you how.

if the igniter module checks out ok, move on to the ignition coil. between the primary positive and negative on the coil there should be 4<6 Ohms of resistance, if theres more or less your coil is junk.

my JDM engine has an internal coil so i checked it while i had the cap off and realized it was rubbish, looks like im convertinh to an external coil. a USDM
H22 will have an external coil.

[scudweiser]

shit its not the coil

[mrhonda]

ignitor

[scudweiser]

ignitor

would the ignition control module on a jdm h22a distributer be the same part as a usdm 9091 accord distributer? they look the same and are in the same location.

i just tested the ignition mod and the book says there should be 7k - 14k ohms of resistance between the blue terminal (tach wire) and light green (power). my reading jumped wildly around from 0 ohm to 25k ohm, i think the module might be the problem.

[H22WAGON93]

are you talking about the coil I give you

[scudweiser]

this is screwy, i think its ecu or wiring related. if it were the TDC sensor it'd throw a code...

[djcaz_aom]

Did you check your Main relay? Since you replacd the coil and ignitor, you need to check the main relay. Happened to me.

[Law Grandeur]

payed 70 bucks for a used internal coil distributor and it worked fine. check ebay the sellers name is fastdizzy. anyways, if it aint that check your fuel, main relay, or maybe your ecu is fried

[scudweiser]

or maybe your ecu is fried

my windshield leaked water above the passanger side the other day too

[scudweiser]

Did you check your Main relay? Since you replacd the coil and ignitor, you need to check the main relay. Happened to me.

if the main relay was bad wouldnt there be no acc power at all?

[scudweiser]

i found out theres no continuity between the Ignitor and the ECU in the Green/Yellow wire. ding ding ding winnar.

the Igniter wire goes to the ecu, but splits into two wires attaching to the A21 and A22 pins, the point at which theyre spliced is a weak point, its just a cheap crimp.